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OK so i need to change my timing cover and im gonna do it the right way and pull the engine put it on a stand. I am at this point below in the pictures. Frankly the AC condenser is rather annoying, should I remove it? If i remove it at the silver metal junction pictured below will it reseal? How many pounds of R134a will it take to refill? Next question.. What minimally do I have to remove at this point to pull that engine out? I know the down pipe on the exhaust, there is a red and blue hose just below the oil cooler, some electrical, what off the top HAS to come off? I dont want to remove any more than i have too.
If you unbolt the compressor, you can lay both of them over the right fender and not have to have the accumulator changed, the system evacuated and recharged.
I've never been able to get one out without pulling the turbo. I guess if you unbolted the motor mounts from the engine instead of the frame you might get away with it, but if you do, I want to see pics. Even if you did, I can't see how it would fit back in.
I planned on pulling turbo...would be easier to pull when engine is out but not sure if its worth the extra work of trying to pull it with it in... Its not like the turbo is a bunch of labor to get it out just cramped quarters.
For me, turbo is the worst part. Right up there with those top 2 Bell House bolts. Ugh. I can't wait til my 12 year old is a little older so he can get his small little hands up and in there.
I just went through this and removing the turbo and y pipe is a must. Since you are going to replace the timing cover and the accessory brackets have to come off anyways might as well do it before you pull the engine to make removal easier. When you do the oil pan make sure you do a thick bead of silicone in the back part of the pan where it dips down. I didn't do as much and it leaked. If you have any more questions things are fresh in my mind so I might be able to help.
Truck 7575, is your truck standard or auto trans? With my Dump truck with a dually, I had to undo the tranny and slide that back about 12-18". Didn't think to ask you that before. The tricky part of reinstall is lining up the TC and flex plate bolts. It's much easier with 2 people. One underneath eyeballing those holes and the other up top making small adjustments to the engine hoist. If is a manual, I use a couple threaded rods with a groove cut in the tip of one end. Before I reinstall the engine, I screw 2 of these into the bellhouse bolt holes in the block. As I slide the engine back, they line up and slide
through the trans holes. It helps line the input shaft up easier. After you get the other 4 in and hand tight, take the 2 threaded rods out using a standard screwdriver. I also found it helps to hook a small ratchet strap from the hoist hook to somewhere in the back of the engine in order to make small adjustments to the angle of the engine. Other than that, the turbo is a pain to put back on, and the top 2 bellhouse bolts are a hassle. Don't forget to hook up the 42 pin connecter like I did! THAT was a stressful 1 1/2 hrs trying to figure out why the darn thing wouldn't fire off! It just takes time. Be patient, and when you're ready to pour 5 gallons of diesel on it and toss a match under the hood, walk away for an hr. Good luck!
good advice, its an automatic, anyone know how i can check my intercooler before reinstalling, the bottom corner has a build up of oily grime and im not sure if it has a leak or not... Can I get it repaired or tested, where would i take it? What kind of shop? If it has to be replaced any ideas?
You just have to get something that will fit in there between the inner clamp sections and smack it a time or two. Or three . . . It takes a little patience and maneuvering, but it will eventually loosen up. When I reinstalled mine, I coated the inner part of the V with antisieze. It came right off easily Monday when I pulled the engine out again.
I've never been able to get one out without pulling the turbo. I guess if you unbolted the motor mounts from the engine instead of the frame you might get away with it, but if you do, I want to see pics. Even if you did, I can't see how it would fit back in.
I watched Jason (skyskijason) do it. He unbolted the cab mounting bolts ( 4 IIRC) and jacked up the cab a few inches at the radiator support.
I've pulled my turbo far too many times (in one day, don't ask...) so I would prob go that route instead of lifting the cab, but It can be done.
I've pulled my turbo far too many time (in one day, don't ask...) so I would prob go that route instead of lifting the cab, but It can be done.
I can empathize...it took me 3 times of engine out and in before I finally had it running leak free again. That's where I got my head beat against the wall enough so I finally started listening to you guys on this site. I like your 'Molon Labe' by your avatar Btw.
I can empathize...it took me 3 times of engine out and in before I finally had it running leak free again. That's where I got my head beat against the wall enough so I finally started listening to you guys on this site. I like your 'Molon Labe' by your avatar Btw.
Thanks!
You aren't alone. I went thru three local botched transmission rebuilds in a two month period before I wised up and listed to the brotherhood & bought a BTS.
Recently I pulled & disassembled my motorcycle engine 4 times to replace the gearbox correctly. I eventually got it right & rode a mere 250 miles before the engine gave up the ghost.
Sometimes we all can be a little hard headed trying to save a few bucks.
It makes us stronger...
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