01. 250 injevtor question.
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Junior User
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01. 250 injevtor question.
My 01 250 7.3 runs fine after 15 min. warm-up but when it first cranks it shakes terrible and runs rough in my earlier thread I mentioned I bought this truck for parts for my 02 but sense I have decided to try to get it runinng better and put the flat bed on (rite rear corner wrecked).
I suspect there are injector problems if I take the valve covers off can I crank the engine and whatch the oil spouts on the injectors to find a sick one. and do all the checks on the UVCH of course. new IPR, ICP, fuel bowl re-seal new FPR, Frersh oil change. Thanks in advance for all your help.
I suspect there are injector problems if I take the valve covers off can I crank the engine and whatch the oil spouts on the injectors to find a sick one. and do all the checks on the UVCH of course. new IPR, ICP, fuel bowl re-seal new FPR, Frersh oil change. Thanks in advance for all your help.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,206
Likes: 3
From: Oakhust NJ Jersey Shore
Injector problem
I dont believe you have a problem with your injectors, usually when they go, they go, Take a close look around the fuel return line around the fuel bowl, they have a tendency to crack, buy the fitting or the housing with the spring and all inside it. It's happened alot then the bowl bleeds down and fills with air and it takes a good while to get the fuel back up fill the bowl and get that air out, number 8 cyl. specially. Sounds like your getting air in the bowl, that the first place I would look, I've seen them crack and not leak, but under a vacuum from the fuel draining back it does. Check all the lines, double check the lines, then the fuel pressure housing, and another way to check is before you start the truck in the morning take the top of the fuel filter lid off. If its full of fuel, take what I said and throw it out the window, and check the ICP plug, I have seen that too, the sensors are good but vibration weakens the terminals and you have to replace the connector end. Its available from dorman now. Let me Know, Hope I helped
Former Vendor
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 243
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From: Central Ohio
I will have to respectfully disagree with you David. On any HEUI injector, they can get oil buildup (stiction) on the spool valve in the oil side of the injector. It's not as common on the 7.3's as it was on the 6.0's, but is still possible. That will cause it to run rough while it's cold, and then clear up when it's warm. So I think the problem would be a stiction issue.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
Likes: 8
From: North Georgia
Bo is correct.
Ailing injectors tend to get "sleepy" at their end of life.
Sounds like you have it nailed down as to what and where to check.
Sometimes... a switch to a full synthetic can have a pleasant effect on tired injectors.
It did help dramatically with mine when i switched to 15-40 T6.
My tired injectors are 421,547 miles tired.(the 5 remaining factory original sticks anyway)
Ailing injectors tend to get "sleepy" at their end of life.
Sounds like you have it nailed down as to what and where to check.
Sometimes... a switch to a full synthetic can have a pleasant effect on tired injectors.
It did help dramatically with mine when i switched to 15-40 T6.
My tired injectors are 421,547 miles tired.(the 5 remaining factory original sticks anyway)
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,326
Likes: 585
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
Plug the block heater in overnight and see how it runs when you start it up. If it runs fine, the injectors are the likely cause. As the poppet valve and seats wear, the armature plate moves closer and closer to the poppet body. When the clearance falls below about .0015", the oil trapped between the two causes too much suction for the solenoid to be able to easily open the poppet valve. As the trapped oil warms and it's viscosity drops, the suction gets easier to break, and the injector starts to work.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
Likes: 8
From: North Georgia
Plug the block heater in overnight and see how it runs when you start it up. If it runs fine, the injectors are the likely cause. As the poppet valve and seats wear, the armature plate moves closer and closer to the poppet body. When the clearance falls below about .0015", the oil trapped between the two causes to much suction for the solenoid to be able to easily open the poppet valve. As the trapped oil warms and it's viscosity drops, the suction gets easier to break, and the injector starts to work.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,613
Likes: 8
From: North Georgia
Thats a 6.0 thing.
On a 7.3 the symtom is a result of actual material wear/loss in the top side of the injector internals. There are rumors of guys who have "rebuilt" sticky 7.3 sticks with shims... but i would never attempt it.
No amount of stiction reliever will put back the material that was lost... which has dropped the armature plate a good .002-.0035" from the solenoid.
While yes the symptoms are similar between 6.0 and 7.3 stiction... the mechanics are not.
Not to disuade any of your future possible customers Bo...
But Stanadyne is like 10$ at any vato zone and has worked for everyone i have heard of using it for 6.0 stiction. Gotta thank Razzi yet again for turning me on to it.
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Junior User
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I dont believe you have a problem with your injectors, usually when they go, they go, Take a close look around the fuel return line around the fuel bowl, they have a tendency to crack, buy the fitting or the housing with the spring and all inside it. It's happened alot then the bowl bleeds down and fills with air and it takes a good while to get the fuel back up fill the bowl and get that air out, number 8 cyl. specially. Sounds like your getting air in the bowl, that the first place I would look, I've seen them crack and not leak, but under a vacuum from the fuel draining back it does. Check all the lines, double check the lines, then the fuel pressure housing, and another way to check is before you start the truck in the morning take the top of the fuel filter lid off. If its full of fuel, take what I said and throw it out the window, and check the ICP plug, I have seen that too, the sensors are good but vibration weakens the terminals and you have to replace the connector end. Its available from dorman now. Let me Know, Hope I helped
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Plug the block heater in overnight and see how it runs when you start it up. If it runs fine, the injectors are the likely cause. As the poppet valve and seats wear, the armature plate moves closer and closer to the poppet body. When the clearance falls below about .0015", the oil trapped between the two causes too much suction for the solenoid to be able to easily open the poppet valve. As the trapped oil warms and it's viscosity drops, the suction gets easier to break, and the injector starts to work.
Former Vendor
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Central Ohio
Not on a 7.3.
Thats a 6.0 thing.
On a 7.3 the symtom is a result of actual material wear/loss in the top side of the injector internals. There are rumors of guys who have "rebuilt" sticky 7.3 sticks with shims... but i would never attempt it.
No amount of stiction reliever will put back the material that was lost... which has dropped the armature plate a good .002-.0035" from the solenoid.
While yes the symptoms are similar between 6.0 and 7.3 stiction... the mechanics are not.
Thats a 6.0 thing.
On a 7.3 the symtom is a result of actual material wear/loss in the top side of the injector internals. There are rumors of guys who have "rebuilt" sticky 7.3 sticks with shims... but i would never attempt it.
No amount of stiction reliever will put back the material that was lost... which has dropped the armature plate a good .002-.0035" from the solenoid.
While yes the symptoms are similar between 6.0 and 7.3 stiction... the mechanics are not.
