2008 5.4 timing
2008 5.4 timing
i am currently tring to change timing chains on 08 .
every were i look it says that the timing marks will not line up after you turn the crank.
first question how do i know if the timing is right before i remove the old chains?
second question, if the timing marks dont line up again, how is it able to stay in time? i thought the crank goes around twice and cam goes around once.
should they not line back up?
tring to wrap my head around this, it just seems to me that if they dont line back up it is no longer in time.
help please before i get pussed and put a I6 with a carb in this truck
thanks tom
every were i look it says that the timing marks will not line up after you turn the crank.
first question how do i know if the timing is right before i remove the old chains?
second question, if the timing marks dont line up again, how is it able to stay in time? i thought the crank goes around twice and cam goes around once.
should they not line back up?
tring to wrap my head around this, it just seems to me that if they dont line back up it is no longer in time.
help please before i get pussed and put a I6 with a carb in this truck
thanks tom
I have done a few timing chain and tensioners over the years. Does this truck have cam phaser's? Thats the big deal when it comes to doing the job,The best way I found, is to pull the timing cover off, pull the plugs put the engine on T.D.C. cyl. no.1 Mark the timing chain on the crank gear on the very bottom or were the factory mark is, if they dont have one like some do, make one with a punch or spring loaded drill starter. Remember there are 2 timing chains, one per side, once you start make sure the engine or the cams do not rotate. ford has a cam holding tool, but you can make someting work, remove the tensioner and the guides, count the links in the timing chain from the crank to the cam, Mark the cam the same way, if you count the links on both chains you will get it back together without a problem. Dont let the cams move I made my own holder tool with 1" flat stock that goes across the head and bend down the ends like rectangle. then I drilled 2 holes in the flat stock and used 1" muffler clamp, I put it under the cam btween lobes and thru the stock tighten nuts just enough to lock the cam, you cam figure that out once the covers are off. Good Luck
do i need to turn the engine over to put all the slack on the chains one way or other?
pass side head has a lot of slack the chain touches in the middle.
if i turn the crank back and forth pass cam does not move right away but the drivers side does.
i can also turn cam phaser on pass side slightly before cam moves.
pass side head has a lot of slack the chain touches in the middle.
if i turn the crank back and forth pass cam does not move right away but the drivers side does.
i can also turn cam phaser on pass side slightly before cam moves.
I was afraid that you had the cam phaser, the problem with them is they operate on oil pressure when you lose oil pressure the phaser loosens up, that's like turning the cam. I leave the slack alone, as long as you count the links and have the links in the same spot you will have the slack in the new chain as well, than you can put your guides in and then the tensioner. dont turn the phasers at all, I usually count the links from the crank to the cam on the inside, you will have slack there too, but the main thing is not to move the cams.
Yes the phasers will move with the chain on, why are we a tooth off on both cams? engine didnt move right? Cams are Locked right? the phasers could have bleed down when you had the chain off and that is were the difference came from, you can move the engine back or foward as needed to get those chains on the correct marks, then make sure you put the engine back to the starting position, than do the left cam. Allways do the inner chain first and get it right and all the guides and tensioners on and maske sure the tensioners come out and keep pressure on that chain, than do the left chain same way, move it ever so slowly even if you have to move the phaser a bit to get that chain on in its respected spot.
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The timing marks don't line up after you turn it because of the length of the chain. Time the cams exactly as I describe in this thread and it will be correct. Make sure the gasket on the tensioner is good and you install the guide arm with the small bump at the pivot pin on the driver's side.
well i installed every thing and it loks correct.
turned over by hand again and bottom marks moved over one tooth and the top moved 2 teeth.
if i keep going around like five hundred times they will all line up i think.
moving over seems conistant with it was doing when i started
hum gonna have to do some math to see how many revs it will take for them to line up again
turned over by hand again and bottom marks moved over one tooth and the top moved 2 teeth.
if i keep going around like five hundred times they will all line up i think.
moving over seems conistant with it was doing when i started
hum gonna have to do some math to see how many revs it will take for them to line up again
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