You know part of the bad rep the 6.0 has is from
the assumption that all the Ford diesel mechanics KNOW
what they are doing. All the new EPA inspired systems took time
to work the bugs out and the new trucks are having some of the
same type of odd ball things. They are all good trucks for the most part.
Sorry for that little rant.

Along with all the FORMER Ford mechanics that clam they are so good.
If that is true...

Sean

 

Thanks for the help, I'll get a second opinion. It just seems like anyone around here that was recommended is several weeks out, that's why I took it to the dealer, they had openings.

The tech also recommended that I don't drive it because of the condition of the turbo. He also said the "up pipes" (still can't figure out what that is) we loose or cracked and it has a bad exhaust leak.

 

Think about why the dealership had openings... and a reason to try to make money.....

Up pipes go from your exhaust manifolds "up" to the turbo... then exhaust goes through the turbo and into the "down pipe" which goes down to the muffler and out the tailpipe, or through the straight pipe if you're doing it right.

Exhaust leaks result in less boost from less exhaust pressure on the turbo... they can also start your truck on fire if they're in the right place... so without seeing it I can't be sure how much the tech either knew or did not about it.

 

Yea mine leak too. Big deal... I'll get around to fixing them when I have time.

The thing to do is get bellowed pipes to absorb the vibration and expansion and not wear out the squeezed connections.

 

OK.
Here you go.
The exhaust manifold is bolted to the head.
At the ends where you in a gas truck see if go to the muffler it
goes to the up-pipe and then into a "Y" pipe so that it's one exhaust
gas stream to the turbo. If you have a crack or leak you loose some
of the gasses that spin the turbine side of the turbo.
Turbo has two basic parts Turbine (Hot Side) and Compressor (Cold Side)
If you loose any of the pressure because of a leak then the turbo will not spin
as fast as it should and you will loose performance. One sign is black smoke
out the tail pipe. That is unburned fuel.

One other thought on getting help. You list your state as ID. You should be able
to ask in the local FTE chapter and see if there is someone near you that is
willing to lean a hand or point you in the right direction for competent help.
Go have a look here >> Idaho Chapter - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
You should be able to find someone. Where in Idaho are you? We may be
able to find you some help. I know people down near Salt Lake that know
what they are doing.


Sean

EDIT : Took too long typing an answer I see.

 

I have never heard the term "dusted" concerning an engine (either gas or diesel) so I would heed everyones advice and get a second or maybe even third opinion on this.

 

Dusted means just that. Dust/ dirt running through the engine. Makes them go bad in a hurry. Especially the diesels that NEED compression.

 

It shorthand for Foreign Body Ingestion.
In the case of an engine it is most times Dust or Dirt.
Sometimes it's parts that have fallen in or broken off.

How ever you look it it's BAD JUJU.


Sean

 

I'm in the Boise area, and again I appreciate the input.

It's just a little frustrating, I did have the truck checked out before purchase by a different tech that I trusted and thought was competent, and found out later he didn't even check some fundamental things.

If the diagnosis is true, I'm not sure it's worth investing several thousand dollars in '01 regular cab 4wd with over 200k miles.

I'll check out the Idaho Chapter FTE.

 

Your right where I was hatched at. Well not really hatched.
I have family down in Twin.

This link should take you to the right Forum.
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

I would ask the people there what they think.
Also I would not say dump it till you can get
a good diagnostics done. Even then you may find
that you can find a used engine for much less
and not have to go to the bank for a bunch of funds.

Do you do your own wrenching? With all the info here
they/we can help you do what may or may not need to be done.

All up to you and how far you want to go.


Sean

 

Moved as requested.

 

This sounds like another case of taking the consumer to the cleaners. It seems that the only way one can keep away from such things is to do the work themselves. But I do not have enough time to do everything that needs to be done.

 

Don't try to off your truck for something this simple. There's hundreds of threads on this same situation. Get us a picture of the turbo wheel so WE can tell you if it's dusted or not. you're with the experts now and well take care of you if you're willing to do your part.

Pull the intake apart again. Get us a picture of that wheel. Grab the wheel and push it straight in and straight out. If you have play then it needs to be rebuilt, still not a big deal it's easy. It's ok to have side to side play in the shaft as long as it doesn't hit the housing, in and out play is BAD.

Leaking uppipes are no big deal you just have to spend some money to fix it the right way so you don't have to do it again.... Lesson learned on my part when I just replaced the gaskets with the upgraded felpro ones. BUT before you jump to that conclusion build a boost leak dector- there's plenty of threads and YouTube videos on how to do this.

We don't mind repeating ourselves 1000 times here but if you use the search function you can do a lot of research on your own about your situation.

Tell us everything you know about the truck... Everything. As it stands right now all of your concerns are really no big deal and most of us have been there done that... It'll help you get acquaint with your new truck if you're willing and able to learn. Hell when we get to that point a lot of guys here will give you their phone numbers if you get into a pickle and dont know what to do... I'm one of them.

 

Usually the root if the problem is a warped lid on a stock airbox. It allows unfiltered air to get drawn into the system. There ar many options to fix that. You can buy a new airbox, or replace with an aftermarket system. Alot of guys, myself included, ended up going with a 6637 system. Cheap and easy. A little louder, but I like it. Not saying it's a fix, but if you do have a dusted wheel, make sure you address the cause if the problem ASAP.

 

Also the little bit of oil in your intake if from your crank case vent, normal.