I read your original question and I cannot tell you what kit will convert your manual choke 2100 into an electric choke 2100. You may want to search over on Pirate 4x4 because 2100s are being scooped up by jeepers for use on V-6s in early flat ties, as well as a cheap "big carb" for a 232 inline.

I only run manual chokes on my old iron. It is all I do! Do I hate electric chokes? No.... a new holley with electric choke will work great...

IMHO you need to make a decision based on your skills and abilities: If you can rebuild the carb yourself, or get a good rebuilt one then it would be the simplest, most cost effective way to go.

I would drop that stocker like its hot and if you want to go to a manual choke setup, get a 2100 for a 67 Bronco with a manual choke. It will work well for the application with a stock engine. If you have the stock 70s low compression truck bomb engine in there it will work well. If you have like a 90s 5.0 swapped in I would seriously consider a holley 500cfm 2bbl with choke. They are excellent carbs for 300-350 cu in engines even with a decent cam. From 0-6000 that is the carb to run IMHO.

The biggest problem with manual choke carbs is getting a good linkage and then setting it up right.

This is a really good one that is cheap:
JEGS Performance Products 15830 JEGS Hand Choke Cable - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

The cable is jacketed which means it will not rust and bind like the unjacketed ones once rain water gets on it. The binding means your will never actually get your choke closed and will always run with it slightly open.

Make sure you pick a route that is not overly twisty. Then to cut the cable to length, pull the **** and inner line back 6+ inches when you cut to length to make sure you have enough inner cable to travel between the detent on the carb and then the choke lever.

Then you need to establish the correct throw, which can be a little complicated.

General rule of thumb is if you set the choke to be completely opened when the **** is about 1/4" from completely pushed in position you will find the choke will open completely. Setting the cable closer and you will sometime find your have the cable completely compressed and it will bottom out in the stop on the dash before the choke is actually completely open.

 

One last piece of advice: If you have shot air choke you have a choke stove coming off the manifold, and there is some "solenoid" or actuator that closes the choke stove/choke when the engine warms up to temp. That could be the root cause of your problems and maybe you can troubleshoot it to see it is can be repaired before making mods to the current setup.

 

Boba,

Thanks for the tip,however the main reason I am not going with the automatic choke is that I do not appear to have a choke stove coming from the manifold. I shot a video yesterday showing how there is nothing there if you want to see it :



What does this solenoid look like ?

 

Just watched the video. One thing from what I saw.... there should be a PCV provision in your carb/manifold where the one loose vac line should connect to.... that means you essentially have a massive vacuum leak, which means your engine will not run properly. I would make sure you have no open vacuum ports or lines that are sucking air when the engine in running. This may be a big cause of your problem.

That thing circular sheet metal thing on the passenger's side manifold is the choke stove that sent hot air into the air cleaner. They air cleaner probably had a provision for closing off air from that manifold once the engine heater to operating temp.

The doohickey on the rear of the driver's side of the carb is an emissions thing as well.

One thing you may also need to check into is the accelerator pump on the bottom left of the carb, in that, if you have no vacuum leaks, it is likely a bad accelerator pump that is causing you to have the huge drop in engine speed. You may be dumping too much gas into the carb, or not enough gas causing the hesitation in the engine. That is likely your culprit.....

The choke is not going to cause the hesitation. If the choke does not engage long enough, the engine will be impossible to start, or will not want to run when could and you will find yourself using the accelerator pedal to keep the cold engine running... like you do with a race car with a chokeless carb.... or if it does not open, your engine will run rich... and smoke.

I would advise looking into the accel pump shot....

 

the pcv thing is an issue. When I bought it the pipe was just loose like that. However the place at the base of the carb where that hose would go has been blocked off. How hard is it to replace the accelerator pump

 

Below is the kit I put on my 74'. It is not the best in the world but the truck is not my daily driver anymore so it does not get used a lot. I did not like the plastic cap that came with (though it will work I am picky) so I machined a new one up out of aluminum stock and added a bronze flange bushing for a nice tight smooth fit. I also made a bracket to hold the cable fast. I mounted the handle end of the cable in the cab to the left of the ash tray. It works. I can't find the pics I took of my setup right now or I would post them.

I also installed the same kit on my fork lift and it has worked good on that so far too.

Help/Universal Choke Conversion Kit (55101) | Choke Conversion Kit | AutoZone.com

 

Thanks man. That is the kit I got. If u ever find those pics i would love to see them as the instructions with the kit suck

 

Boba thanks for the great tips. Is rebulding the accelerator pump hard ? Do you need to remove the carb to do this ? Is there anyway that I can see if its busted before I replace it or should I just replace it

 

When the accelerator pump goes bad it is usually a leaky or bad diaphragm. The pump is located on the bottom drivers side of the carb and you will need to pull the carb to replace it. It is remove four screws, pull the cap, remove old diaphragm, install new. The most important part of the job will be to get the correct new diaphram, ie engine and year... They can be slightly different. It is really simple to do.

 

I found some of my pics. I have to crop them so I;ll post them up in a day or two.

 

The replacement of the accelerator pump diaphram is easy. You have to take the carb off the manifold because it is located under the drivers side half of the front of the carb, below the fuel bowl. Replacement is simple and straight forward. First remove the carb, and then dump the fuel out, or you can dump drain the fuel from the bowl by pulling a lower bolt... But it is easier to dump the fuel second. Just turn the carb upside down and the fuel will empty through the bowl vents. Now with the carb upside down look for the accelerator pump diaphragm cover. It has four screws/bolt retaining it. Pull the cover, pull the rubber diaphragm, insert the new one, put the cap back on... Done.

Fyi... Cleaning the carb gasket off the bottom of the carb and the intake can be a little scary the first time because you worry about getting debris in the intake... Easy way to do this it use some old rags and ball them up and press them into the intake bores down a little below the top of the bore and use a drill or angle grinder with a wire wheel to remove the old gasket materials.. This would also be a great time to look at the pcv situation as there is a spacer below the carb where it plugged into stock. Knocking the spacer loose may take some massaging with a long screwdriver or smaller prybar and tapping with a rubber or plastic mallet

 

Here are some pics. The last pic is not mine but it is one way to mount the cable. I ran the cable in front of the engine and used one of the carb hold down bolts to hold the cable end mount.

 

Looks like some "grooming" took place to protect ones dignity, fair enough. I know better.