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Choke issues and under load bogging

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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 05:56 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jomoflymo
Wow I am really out of depth on this truck. Maybe it just needs too much work for me
No need to give up. I realize it can be frustrating, particularly if it's your daily driver. However, it's not rocket science, and with time, research, and patience you'll learn a ton and be able to fix most anything on your rig.

Good luck.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 06:19 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by jomoflymo
I appreciate all the help but not the sarcastic comment. If we are being objective the truck is screwed up what is subjective is your uninformed opinion on my ability to do anything about it. Don't bother commenting at all if that is all you can say
I don't think HIO is being sarcastic, he is a straight shooter, telling you exactly how it is.

I dont see it as being a quitter though. I just see it as making different choices.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 06:33 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by jomoflymo
I appreciate all the help but not the sarcastic comment. If we are being objective the truck is screwed up what is subjective is your uninformed opinion on my ability to do anything about it. Don't bother commenting at all if that is all you can say
You're not on the fast track to making friends 'round here; let me be the first to say.

You can't call his opinion uninformed when you yourself said in a previous post that you feared the truck may be more than you can handle. It's very obvious that HIO's comment was meant to encourage you to re-evaluate your logic in an effort to maintain what is ultimately a rewarding hobby.

HIO is one of the most active contributors to this forum and your experience here will be a lot more fruitful if you're a little more open-minded.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 06:36 PM
  #19  
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I certainly am open minded and will continue to try and be so. Certainly HIO's comments did not seem meant to encourage more just berate but if I have that wrong then I certainly apologize
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 06:47 PM
  #20  
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Dutchman thanks for the positive comments and thanks all. I tried turning the choke and it appears fixed I cannot rotate it. Do I have to loosen something
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 06:49 PM
  #21  
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You have to loosen the three screws that secure the retaining ring. Please refer to the second write-up I posted. Because it's a bit of an interference fit, it can still be a little snug even with the retaining ring loose. It is meant to rotate; there is nothing inside from preventing it from doing so.

It's a moot point because your hot-air stove is absent. There is no point in adjusting the choke until this is resolved.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2014 | 07:31 AM
  #22  
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thanks for all the help. I think the weirdest thing for me is how the guy I bought it from had it running with all this stuff wrong with it. I mean I picked it up from his house which is 40 miles away from my house and it only started really running bad and stalling out after about 15 miles. So how was it running well for the first 15 miles that is the mystery to me. Also if there is anyone in or around Washington DC that knows these carbs and stuff I would be happy to pay for some tuning and diagnostic time to get this old gal running.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2014 | 10:35 AM
  #23  
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Hey FMC400 I have ordered the stove repair kit and will touch back with you once I have it installed. My question on that is where does the other end of the hose go ? I know it comes out of the manifold right ? SO does that mean I have got an uncovered valve somewhere on my manifold that is spewing exhaust gases ?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2014 | 10:53 AM
  #24  
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Please refer to my original writeup for an explanation of how it's plumbed. The hot-air stove does not pull exhaust. It pulls fresh air, and simply loops through an exhaust crossover to get heated up by outbound exhaust. The two flows do not mix.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2014 | 11:02 AM
  #25  
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Right thanks, I appreciate all the help I am gonna yank it tonight and play with the carb all weekend so i will let you know
 
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Old Aug 1, 2014 | 12:41 PM
  #26  
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An option i didnt see posted was to go to either a manual choke or an electric choke. Ive been around alot of these old trucks and i dont even recall ever seeing a properly functioning choke. The bimetal springs are usually fatigued or broken, which renders the system not operational.
I know it can be frusterating to keep these trucks running but unfortunately its part of the game. I would get used to fiddling with the fuel system, i feel its the most problematic part of any older vehicle. At least the carb is about the simplest one ive encountered on a fullsize vehicle. Educate yourself and you will work through the issues. Good luck
 
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Old Aug 1, 2014 | 12:48 PM
  #27  
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I would certainly consider converting to a manual choke, do you have any idea where I could get a kit and how to install that kit once I got it ?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2014 | 12:56 PM
  #28  
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Would something like this work ?

Amazon.com: Dorman HELP! 55104 Choke Conversion Kit: Automotive Amazon.com: Dorman HELP! 55104 Choke Conversion Kit: Automotive

Is it a hard thing to do ?
 
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Old Aug 1, 2014 | 01:46 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by jomoflymo
thanks for all the help. I think the weirdest thing for me is how the guy I bought it from had it running with all this stuff wrong with it. I mean I picked it up from his house which is 40 miles away from my house and it only started really running bad and stalling out after about 15 miles. So how was it running well for the first 15 miles that is the mystery to me.
Did you ever open up the carb and see if you had a clogged jet?

Converting to a manual choke, or fixing your existing choke, will not fix the problem that you initially wrote about.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2014 | 01:58 PM
  #30  
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I did not do that yet because as I understand I have to take the carb off the truck to do that and then I will have to replace the gasket and I just ordered a new gasket set so I am waiting to do that until the gasket set arrives
 
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