Need some advice
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Junior User
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Ok, I got the plug out and it looks like the oil level in the HPOP reservoir is about 3.5" down from the top, this is after sitting about 22 hours. I took video of the gauges when starting, and it actually started and stayed running. Not sure why it almost always shuts back off after it has sat that long. So it looks like I might have two problems, the drain back valve? And for the oil in the fuel filter, the injector O-rings? Thanks again for the help everyone!
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Junior User
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I pulled out my fuel filter and took a few pics. The filter has 3800 miles on it. I also took a pic of the bottom of the fuel bowl, looks nasty. Thoughts? Now do I just do the injector o-rings, or new injectors... I don't want anything crazy but would it be smart given the miles on the truck?
https://plus.google.com/photos/11440...85976089993201
https://plus.google.com/photos/11440...85976089993201
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: Onlsow, NC
This would be my excuse to upgrade injectors. How long have you had this truck? I'm not going to tell you it's time to throw that kind of money at your truck. Many people get impressive mileage out of their original injectors. But there's about as many, maybe a few more, that don't.
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I've had the truck for three years, and have put about 45,000 miles on it. I love the truck and it's in great shape. More than anything I want the truck to be "right", reliable and last. I do tow my Jeep with it, but nothing more then 8k ever. I kinda feel like injectors are a wear item and should be replaced at some point, just not sure it this is that point. I would look at something mild, I have no plans of a bigger turbo, or HPOP.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: Onlsow, NC
Any chance you can reach the previous owner to find out if the injectors have ever been changed? Also, is there a lot of blue smoke on start up? That's a sure sign of injector O-ring failure.
Some people switch to OEM single shots. That will give you some improvement without having to make a lot of supporting mods. You will need to get your PCM flashed to run single shots over split shots. And you won't sacrifice longevity.
You can probably upgrade as high as stage 2 and depending on how you drive it, you shouldn't have any reliability problems. But then you will also want to upgrade your exhaust and intake at a minimum to keep your EGT's down.
Some people switch to OEM single shots. That will give you some improvement without having to make a lot of supporting mods. You will need to get your PCM flashed to run single shots over split shots. And you won't sacrifice longevity.
You can probably upgrade as high as stage 2 and depending on how you drive it, you shouldn't have any reliability problems. But then you will also want to upgrade your exhaust and intake at a minimum to keep your EGT's down.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
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From: Puget Sound
I would advise against Stage IIs, based on your posted goals. Brand new IH AC 160/Stock injectors with a PCM flash for stock power will fit your needs, or maybe a tune up to about 60 more HP. This keeps the EGTs down when towing, and more oomph for passing or for going up grades.
The simplest will be new stock injectors - but I emphasize "new". I can make a list of why not remans, but you might not need convincing.
You might be able to stall the need for new sticks, you can try new O-rings first.
The simplest will be new stock injectors - but I emphasize "new". I can make a list of why not remans, but you might not need convincing.
You might be able to stall the need for new sticks, you can try new O-rings first.
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There is not much smoke on start up, some when it has been sitting. I don't believe the injectors have been replaced, I got most of the records with the truck from the original owner.
I like that idea of the AC's. I would like just a bump in power for daily driving, and towing. I assume I would be able to retain the other tunes I have as well. Currently I have 40T, 60T, 60E, 80E, and 100 performance. I honestly drive the truck in the stock setting most the time, partially due to the extra noise the other tunes cause. What I would really like is just a bump in power and the shifting improvements of say the 80E tune, without the extra noise.
As the truck sits now It has 4" turbo back exhaust, 6637 filter, FRx, ATS housing with RR billet wheel for ported housing, gauges, and strong stock HPOP.
I like that idea of the AC's. I would like just a bump in power for daily driving, and towing. I assume I would be able to retain the other tunes I have as well. Currently I have 40T, 60T, 60E, 80E, and 100 performance. I honestly drive the truck in the stock setting most the time, partially due to the extra noise the other tunes cause. What I would really like is just a bump in power and the shifting improvements of say the 80E tune, without the extra noise.
As the truck sits now It has 4" turbo back exhaust, 6637 filter, FRx, ATS housing with RR billet wheel for ported housing, gauges, and strong stock HPOP.
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From: Hoschton,GA
There is not much smoke on start up, some when it has been sitting. I don't believe the injectors have been replaced, I got most of the records with the truck from the original owner.
I like that idea of the AC's. I would like just a bump in power for daily driving, and towing. I assume I would be able to retain the other tunes I have as well. Currently I have 40T, 60T, 60E, 80E, and 100 performance. I honestly drive the truck in the stock setting most the time, partially due to the extra noise the other tunes cause. What I would really like is just a bump in power and the shifting improvements of say the 80E tune, without the extra noise.
As the truck sits now It has 4" turbo back exhaust, 6637 filter, FRx, ATS housing with RR billet wheel for ported housing, gauges, and strong stock HPOP.
I like that idea of the AC's. I would like just a bump in power for daily driving, and towing. I assume I would be able to retain the other tunes I have as well. Currently I have 40T, 60T, 60E, 80E, and 100 performance. I honestly drive the truck in the stock setting most the time, partially due to the extra noise the other tunes cause. What I would really like is just a bump in power and the shifting improvements of say the 80E tune, without the extra noise.
As the truck sits now It has 4" turbo back exhaust, 6637 filter, FRx, ATS housing with RR billet wheel for ported housing, gauges, and strong stock HPOP.
Going to Single Shot injectors you will need the tunes redone. If you bought the chip directly from us and you buy the injectors through us we will update the tunes to match the injectors at no charge. We can make any shifting adjustments for you at that time. Worn out injectors will start "knocking" at idle among other things. You should not hear a change in tune sound at idle when changing unless you have hi-idle, lope or drive thru. Driving you will some due to going from 800 psi of oil pressure to 1800 psi. Using the wrong oil brand and weight will cause them to be louder.
Just from following this thread and your posts I am leaning toward worn out injectors. You can do anything from a Stock rebuild to freshen them up or go to Single Shots for better performance results.
We sell injectors if you are interested in discussing your options.
~Diane
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Junior User
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I would advise against Stage IIs, based on your posted goals. Brand new IH AC 160/Stock injectors with a PCM flash for stock power will fit your needs, or maybe a tune up to about 60 more HP. This keeps the EGTs down when towing, and more oomph for passing or for going up grades.
The simplest will be new stock injectors - but I emphasize "new". I can make a list of why not remans, but you might not need convincing.
You might be able to stall the need for new sticks, you can try new O-rings first.
The simplest will be new stock injectors - but I emphasize "new". I can make a list of why not remans, but you might not need convincing.
You might be able to stall the need for new sticks, you can try new O-rings first.
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