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Duraspark II module going bad.

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Old Aug 1, 2014 | 05:50 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by seattle smitty
Are you sure it's a DS-ll? The DS-1 was notorious for breaking down when hot. Anyway, Standard Motor Products makes a generic 4-pin brainbox for Ford/Chrysler/GenMotors/AMC that's tough. Seems like it's called an FX-101, or something-101.
FX101 is a Chrysler module. FWIW all the modules are pretty tough and last well over 100k if mounted correctly and properly grounded. When someone starts mounting these with zip ties and barrel crimp connectors is when the problems start. ~Bill
 
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Old Aug 2, 2014 | 11:45 AM
  #17  
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Have 1982 300-6 Duraspark system.
This ignition sytem is very senstive to proper grounding.

Bench tested the entire system compoents just using the black ground wire from distributor to ignition module, NO spark.

If grounding from engine to fender where module is mounted, could have excessive resistance greater than .1 ohm and system will not operate.

Placed jumper between distributor case and ignition module case, GOT spark.

With Duraspark system intalled on engine, run a separate ground wire from distributor case to ignition module case mounting screw.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2014 | 05:29 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by raven3

With Duraspark system intalled on engine, run a separate ground wire from distributor case to ignition module case mounting screw.
When you say distributor case you mean from the distributor ground wire to the ignition module case
 
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 01:22 PM
  #19  
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I'm happy to inform you guys that Big Red is A-OK I replaced the plugs (non EFI), autolite spark plug wires, new ignition module, cap, and rotor. I went to the junkyard today and scored a Motorcraft canister style coil and ignition module the original duraspark 2. I removed my TFI coil and she took a while to start but when she did it was purring like a kitten.


Just drove the old girl with the canister coil and man do the RPM's wine up way quicker then it did with the TFI coil. I was amazed on how it performed
 
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 06:35 PM
  #20  
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I also noticed today when I was turning on my truck that it won't start until you let go of the key it'll crank for a while and it won't start by it's self until you let go of the key. Is that normal, could it be because of the coil change?
 
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 06:37 PM
  #21  
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"...until you let go of the key."

Mine does that when i first start it and it is cold. I'm inclined to think that it is the ignition switch.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 06:44 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by fordboy300
I also noticed today when I was turning on my truck that it won't start until you let go of the key it'll crank for a while and it won't start by it's self until you let go of the key. Is that normal, could it be because of the coil change?
You should look at the coil positive voltage while cranking, my guess is it jumps up when you disengage the starter. The higher voltage then will produce a good spark.
Also check coil positive voltage KEY ON not running and again at idle.
Jim
 
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 07:07 PM
  #23  
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That doesn't sound normal. I've never had either of mine do that.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 07:54 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by JimsRebel
You should look at the coil positive voltage while cranking, my guess is it jumps up when you disengage the starter. The higher voltage then will produce a good spark.
Also check coil positive voltage KEY ON not running and again at idle.
Jim
Jim how much voltage should the coil have when its in the KOEO position?

I also had another canister coil to try but still the same effect.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 08:04 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by fordboy300
Jim how much voltage should the coil have when its in the KOEO position?
In an 1983 with a stock DS2 IGN system at the coil positive with KEY ON would be around 8 VDC

With the small "S" wire on the starter solenoid pulled (so the starter can engage) ... in the Start KEY position ... voltage should be 12VDC or same as battery voltage
 
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 09:26 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by JimsRebel
In an 1983 with a stock DS2 IGN system at the coil positive with KEY ON would be around 8 VDC

With the small "S" wire on the starter solenoid pulled (so the starter can engage) ... in the Start KEY position ... voltage should be 12VDC or same as battery voltage

So should I crank it with the S wire unplugged to check if I have the voltage there or should also be "key on engine off" to check for voltage
 
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 09:32 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by fordboy300
So should I crank it with the S wire unplugged to check if I have the voltage there or should also be "key on engine off" to check for voltage
Both checks
 
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 09:53 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by JimsRebel
Both checks
I have 7.2 volts at the coil. I unplugged the signal wire on the starter relay with the key in the RUN position I only had 0.01 volts electrical is my strongest point but that doesn't seem right I must've been doing something wrong
 
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 10:06 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by fordboy300
I have 7.2 volts at the coil. I unplugged the signal wire on the starter relay with the key in the RUN position I only had 0.01 volts electrical is my strongest point but that doesn't seem right I must've been doing something wrong
7.2 is close enough.
The wire on the start relay only see power with the key in start, but also disables the starter, so the point was to check both coil positive voltages in start and key ON positions
 
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 10:16 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by JimsRebel
7.2 is close enough.
The wire on the start relay only see power with the key in start, but also disables the starter, so the point was to check both coil positive voltages in start and key ON positions
Ahhhhh I see what you mean now okay tomorrow I'll check it out. It's dark over here now but I will keep you posted thank you for your help.
 
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