I was talking about the performance gains of doing a rear disc brake swap. They dont offer any gain really and most large trucks still use drum brakes.

If someone wants to throw money at a upgrade thinking it will fix their problem that is their choice. I cant force them to check their brake system to make sure its in perfect working order.

 

true true, maybe if people are willing to throw money at their brake system someone should start selling " high pressure brake flushes" which can not only double or triple their stopping power, but save their life.

I realize " high pressure brake flushes" are done at the dealerships, but I have been certified and have many tools to complete the job correctly. I have done this on many automobiles so far. If you are not satisfied, I will refund all of your money except labor charges.

 

Most people dont even flush their cooling system like they are supposed to, let alone flushing their brake system.

Me I drain, flush, and replace the coolant every 2nd oil change, and I flush the brake system out and replace with fresh fluid every 4th oil change.

 

Huge props for replacing coolant that often, flushing brakes that often....

I am sure you do it yourself so is there any tips you can offer to make it go easier/faster/safer?

 

Well for me, I drain the system out and refill with water, leaving a water hose in the radiator turned on, I remove the upper hose from the radiator and crank the engine up and let it run. I let it run till the water coming out of the upper hose is clear looking. Then I redrain the system and add 1 gallon of extended life green coolant, and 3 gallons of water, I personally prefer running 25% coolant as its the bare min and we really dont see temps much below 30* here in winter. If you prefer to run 50/50 then if your system holds 4 gallons, do two coolant and two water then.

For the brake system, I have a large 2.5 (I think its 2.5) gallon Mityvac fluid evacuator/dispenser. I open the bleeder valve at the furthest caliper/wheel cylinder. Generally that will be the rear driver side. I remove the master cylinder cap and first I use the mityvac to remove all old brake fluid from the master cylinder. I then wipe it dry with a lint free papertowl (the blue shop towels you can find at auto part stores by Scott I think it is is what I use). Then I add fresh brake fluid to the master cylinder. From there I attach the Mityvac to the driver side rear wheel cylinder after opening the bleeder valve. I pump up a vacuum and open the adapter hose for bleeding brakes to let the fluid start flowing.

From there I stand at the front of the vehicle adding brake fluid to the master cylinder watching the clear hose on the mityvac till I see no more tint to the brake fluid. Once this happens, I move to the next wheel, the passenger side rear. It goes faster as the rest of the line brake line has already been flushed. Then I move up to the front passenger side then the front driver side to finish up.

Sure there might be better ways of doing it, but it works and its not messy when doing it with the mityvac. When it comes time to get rid of the old fluid, I switch mine to dispense mode and fill up the empty brake fluid bottles and get rid of it then.

Thing to remember if you use a mityvac, you might have to pull the bleeder out and put a little grease on the threads if you are using it to bleed. It will suck air bubbles past the threads and you will think theres still air in the system when there isnt.

Ive used it at work three times and there was bubbles still showing up but there was no air in the line. once you get enough experience with it, you will learn what is air bubbles coming in from around the threads and air still in the brake system.


For me it sounds like I change my fluid often but I put 3,000 miles on my vehicles in probably a year and a half. So doing my coolant every two oil changes is changing my coolant every two to three years, my brakes every three to four years roughly.

I do my brakes that often cause every time you open to check the fluid level the brake fluid absorbs moisture. If its very humid it can quickly become saturated. This is why I recommend doing research, I found that Valvoline DOT 4 brake fluid has the highest wet boiling point and dry boiling point on the market last time I looked about 3 years ago. DOT 4 is a good upgrade to do on your DOT 3 system as its directly compatible. Do not use DOT 5, its a synthetic brake fluid but it is known for moisture bubbles forming in older systems due to moisture saturation.

 

Beyond amazing.