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Old Jul 10, 2003 | 09:11 PM
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I've chased a rough running condition for three months. Began as light roughness only during warm up. Now is strong bucking during warm-up and noticeable rough running when warm. Have replaced fuel pressure regulator; EEC power relay; EGR valve (not sensor); TPS Sensor; coolant temp sensor; Idle Speed Control Bypass Valve; Sparkplugs, wires, cap and rotor; PCV valve. Have also checked and cleaned all the vacuum lines and grounds I can find. Checked MAP sensor (0 in Hg = 1350 rpm and 20 in Hg = 900rpm). Checked and cleaned ACT sensor( was very dirty but checked ok). Today pulled codes. KOEO- 15 and 67; continuous 32. The 15 is about EEC read only memory, 67 is about air conditionong and were there in the past the 32 is new and seems to be about the EGR valve. If anyone cares to, please suggest another step in the process.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2003 | 09:48 PM
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It may be stuck open causing a lean condition. Remove it and check to see if the poppet is carboned up and not closing all of the way.
Jimmy
 
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Old Jul 11, 2003 | 10:49 AM
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Where did you get those code definitions? My list is linked in this thread, which is the Ford procedure for pulling codes.

As a general suggestion: follow the tune-up procedure printed on the vacuum diagram sticker in your engine compartment.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2003 | 12:39 PM
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Steve 83 - The codes were found in a Haynes fuel injection manual. I pulled the codes three times to be sure. I used the two digit code list. I have only moderate confidence in my skill level with codes.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2003 | 12:48 PM
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lxman1 - The EGR valve in a new replacement. I intend to replace the EGR sensor today. Will post results.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2003 | 01:46 PM
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skid
Did you read the Ford procedure I linked?
 
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Old Jul 11, 2003 | 11:02 PM
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Well that probably rules out a dirty EGR valve then. Could be the sensor gone bad.
Jimmy

PS, How close is Harlan to Louisville?
 
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Old Jul 12, 2003 | 12:45 AM
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Steve83 Printed them today and have looked them over. They are very similar to the Haynes instructions. I will take a more detailed look soon.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2003 | 12:50 AM
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lxman1 - Installed new EGR sensor today. May have helped, will know more after a cold start and warm up from overnight. Harlan is about four hours from Louisville. Southeastern Ky, near tennessee and virginia.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2003 | 11:54 AM
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Cool, good luck on the sensor.
Jimmy
 
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Old Jul 13, 2003 | 10:42 PM
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addendum - 1 Purchased a fuel pressure gauge that attaches to the fuel rail. Pressure measured at 54 psi. This is higher than manuals indicate (39 to 45psi) Also pressure drops steadily after key is off. 54 to 49 in twenty minutes and to 10psi in three hours. Should be near zero overnight. No sign of external leaks. Could this indicate a faulty injector? How can I test to isolate a bad injector? Fuel pressure regulator is new. addendum- 2 Test of MAP sensor showed 1350 rpm at 0 in Hg and 900 rpm at 20 in Hg. The Haynes manual suggests a reading of 300 rpm at 0 in Hg and 200 rpm at 20 in Hg. Are my high readings significant?
Note - EGR sensor had no effect on problem.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2003 | 01:51 PM
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Pressure corection. The fuel pressure with cold engine is about 46 psi and remains at 46psi while running. The 54 psi reading occurs after hot engine is shut down.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2003 | 07:48 PM
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While reading through my Chilton Truck and Van Manual I came across new information. Chilton states that the fuel pressure for a 4.9 should be between 50 and 60 psi. This makes my 46 psi reading a bit low. Also I wonder why sometimes the pressure has been up to 54 psi. I had assumed the 54 psi was due to heat after the engine shut off, but perhaps there is something else going on.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2003 | 10:36 PM
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Put the original fuel pressure regulator back. Test with fuel pump grounded and key on is 58psi. With engine running 49-50 psi. With vacuum pulled 58psi.
Changed fuel filter (Long shot) no effect.
Used old filter with one end closed to plug end of fuel return line at tank selector in order to run dead head pressure test on fuel pump. (only way to avoid damage to line I can think of) Worked to an extent, got a reading of 80-82 psi. I wonder if air trapped in filter inhibited results. Compressed air sprayed a lot of fuel when removed. Probably should have cut off nipple from old filter for a plug. No damage to line or fitting though. Book says pressure should be around double running pressure ; 100 to 120 psi.
Ran truck hard up a nearby hill, Pine Mt. on US 421, for about four miles. Pulled good, ran smooth with no missing. Check engine light filckered a few times early on only. Should indicate fuel pump is keeping up with demand.
Later, still ran uneven on flat road at 50 to 60 mph with light to moderate throttle. Fourth or fifth gear and at a range of rpm's.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2003 | 11:23 PM
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Have you checked/replaced the intake temperature sensor? Those get pretty nasty-
 
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