Ok, 1st, I have read that Fram Filters aren't very good, could someone elborate?

2nd, Pennziol, I know some of you think it's bad, but right now I can get it for $.99 a quart from Checkers...Waddya think?

Thanks,

 

Anyone?

 

-prepare for the long story-

A few years ago, well more than a few, I had a '86 bronco 2. This was my high school vehicle, inherited at ~120,000 from my dad. His big thing was to use Fram filters. Oil was changed every 3000 miles. A few months after he got it (at 80,000 miles), a valve lifter started ticking. Later, when the valve lifter was ticking constantly, he bought a '92 explorer. This is when I inherited the '86 bronco 2. He told me to use Fram filters. Not knowing any better, I did. Of course, I used Mobil 1 oil, thinking that it would flow better and stop the valve lifter tick, which it somewhat helped, for a while. At 160,000 miles, the engine was significantly down on power, and was making some more noises than the valve lifter tick. At 164,000 miles, the oil light was on constantly, and it sounded like it was full of sand. I parked it in front of the garage, and pulled the engine. Upon teardown, the oil pan had at least 1" of asphalt like sludge on it, and the thrust bearing had ate into the crank at least 1/8". This caused the counterweights to slam into the block. These were the noises I was hearing. The crank and the block were ruined. The rod bearings were wore through to the next metal layer, I think it's copper. I subsequently junked the vehicle, and bought my brothers truck. The Bronco 2 is up at Rons Auto Salvage by Allison, Iowa with the block, crank, and piston / rod assemblys in back if anybody doubts my story.

That is why I dont like fram.

Pennzoil, I have no opinion on. I dont use it personally, though.

 

Thanks for the reply. What do you use now? NAPA Gold good filter? Also, what is a dino oil?

 

1. I've been told by a dude at a local CarQuest auto parts store that fram filters have a bunch of cardboard, elmers glue, etc, and said to NEVER use 'em. DON'T use Fram. I don't know if their air filters are any good, but as a precaution I stay away from 'em. Right now I'm using a cheap CarQuest brand air filter but next time I get a filter I'm prolly gonna go with an STP filter from AutoZone.

2. Pennzoil, I have no opinion on either, and I myself don't use it personally, either. I use Castrol GTX 20W50, and I dunno what oil was in it before my recent oil change (I got my truck 3 months ago with an oil change done just before buying it, so I let it run the 3000 mile cycle) but the GTX works WAAAY better than the other stuff. Pretty soon I'm gonna do another oil change myself with Castrol GTX 20W50 since my engine's cooked and water is continually leaking into the oil (look at the head crack/head gasket thread in the Bronco II forum for more info on my problemo) and use a Motorcraft filter with it.

 

Dino oil is slang for natural oil, as opposed to synthetic.

As in made from dinosaurs...

 

Right now I use CI-4 / SL dual rated Mystik JT-8 brand oil, and a K&N oil filter. It seems to work good. Heres a link to info on the oil.

 

I have personally and professionally used NAPA filters for over 3 decades. No problems. I understand that the "Gold" series filters will trap smaller particles than the "Silver" series which is more of an OEM filter. I understand that they are manufactured by WIX for NAPA.

With regard to motor oils - the course of study is at www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html. Vtr is the Vintage Triumph Register and is one of the best articles I have seen in a long time. Some oils have a lot of Zinc in them which can leave a residue. Personally I use Chevron as their cracking process is state of the art. Professionally we use re-refined oil from a company called American Pride. Have had no problems with it.

Russ

 

I will have to come out for Pennzoil. It has worked very well for me with high usage (everything over 150,000) and no problems that I can attribute to the oil. I have only been using it for 5 years, but it is doing a great job so far. I average 1200 miles a week on my primary car.

 

I have a very similar truck to yours, '94 F-150 4x4 302. Motorcraft oil fiters are very cheap at most stores and they are designed for your engine. As for Pennzoil, there are varied opinions here. Shell now owns them and they seem to have improved formulations lately. I would not hesitate to use the LongLife formula, but it is not $.99. I use Chevron Delo 400 in mine, which usually costs me $6 a gallon.

Russ, where did you get the idea that ZDDP leaves a residue? High TBN and ZDDP levels are associated with high ash levels. Unless you are burning oil, ash deposits are nil. That is why aircraft oils are "ashless", because those engines burn a lot of oil.

Jim

 

According to what I can find on the studies, high zinc contents can lead to higher deposits. I think a little clarification might be in order. Zinc should only be a factor when no oil is present to do the lubrication. When an engine has drained down or when viscosity requirements are exceeded would be some good examples. Zinc does it's job when metal engages metal. It is designed to be a failsafe for short periods, not a primary wear preventer. If the Zinc has to work too much, that is an indication that something is not right and that metal is engaging metal. That would result in residue that should not be present. Of course I am basing this all on studies and reports, as I try not to let these circumstances occur in my vehicles.
Hope it helps!

 

jimandmandy, Delo? What wieght you use? I've that is good oil for diesel's, good for gasser's? Thanks for the responses.

 

There is nothing wrong with Pennzoil. If you look at a particular messageboard dedicated to motor oils and filters you will find they hold in high regard. That 302 of yours would probably do well with a 15w40 fleet oil such as Chevron Delo or Shell Rotella. They do a pretty good job of keeping an engine clean and have a very robust additive package. If you will look they are almost all dual rated for diesel and gasoline engines. I use it in an old high mileage LTD beater car and it keeps consumption lower than anything I have used with the exception of 20w50 but that stuff seems way too thick. 15w40 has pretty good cold pumpability characteristics in most cases as well.

 

So you think a 15w 40 is ok in the winter for my 302? Thanks.

 

I wouldn't use a Fram oil filter as I have heard that their construction is somewhat inferior as compared to other filters. I would personally use a Napa Gold or Motorcraft filter--see link to follow... http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...ilfilters.html

For oil I use Valvoline or Chevron Supreme but I do think that most good oils changed regularly would do the job. As for the weight of oil to use I would probably stick with what is recommened on the engine label under the hood.