Hello: I bought a 66 f100 Custom Cab, 240, 3 on the tree that hasn't ran in about 4 years. I changed the oil which was full of gas, and filter. Removed the gas tank and cleaned and put in new fuel. Through a battery in it and it turns over just fine, but wont fire. Put on a new cap and points, the condenser and rotor look fine, but the wires are questionable. Plugs look almost new with a little of black on them. Confirmed it gets fuel to the carb (its a 1bb) and pulled a wire and plug to confirm it gets spark. it simply will not fire, doesnt even sound like it wants to even when priming it with fuel through the carb. Now what??? thanks

 

Welcome to FTE

The condenser may "look fine" but that doesn't mean it's any good.

SOP when doing a tune-up: Replace plugs, points, condenser, rotor and cap.

Other possibles why it won't fire: Broken ground wire inside the dizzy, defective primary wire from coil to dizzy.

Why was it parked for 4 years? It's possible it has "jumped time" and/or has other engine maladies.

 

This would be a good candidate for shot of starting fluid. If it will pop on ether you'll now it is the fuel system. Were the plugs wet when you pulled them?

 

All of the above and...
you say fuel is getting to the carb but can you see it squirt when you work the throttle. If not check the needle and seat for sticking. Check the firing order - make sure plug wires are in the right spot. Change the condenser and rotor. Remove the valve cover and bring #1 piston up to TDC. See where the distributor is pointing. If that lines up its time for a compression test. let us know how you progress...

 

When stumped I resort to reverting back to ole school procedure to determine if there's is a spark to the plug. Suggest start by removing #1 spark plug, with the ignition on, ground the threaded portion of the spark plug to the block then rotate the engine to see whether getting a spark, make sure to hold the plug wire and not the spark plug or U will be in for a shock. Another option, I purchased an inexpensive 'inline spark plug tester' for less than $10, just remove the plug wire from #1 cylinder and place one end of the tester to the plug wire and the other end fits on the spark plug, then with the ignition on rotate the engine and watch to see if the tester lights up. If getting a spark, suggest remove #1 spark plug and with the ignition off, place finger in opening and rotate engine until compression forces finger out of the opening, then immediately stop and check the position of the rotor in relation to the timing mark, this is only a 'quick check' to determine if the timing is in the ball park. I then adjust the idle mixture by lightly closing the adjustment screw then backing it out; not sure about the 1 bbl, I usually start at around 1 to 1 1/2 turns?? Anyhow, basically lazy so it's a method this ole timer has used over the years only to establish a reference point then once the engine is running I can fine tune, keeping in mind adjusting the timing means I will have to go back and slightly adjust the idle mixture. Results may find disassembly required??

 

I could NOT help notice you said you had gas in your oil in the first sentence. I would suspect you also have a bad fuel pump. This may explain the gas in the oil if you have a mechanical fuel pump (as opposed to an electrical one). This would not stop it from starting with the fuel poured in the carb, I realize that, but just thought I would give you a heads up on the fuel pump.

 

When engine oil gets old and breaks down it starts to smell like gasoline. That might be all it is and not actually gasoline in the pan. Let's hope that's the case here.