I'm planning on replacing the entire exhaust system on the 88, considering it ends right after the catalytic converter due to rust. It's 4x4, 5 speed, 302, regular cab. I've read that long tubes won't work, I've also read that they do. I'd really like to get this done right on the first try, so I'd like to hear from folks who have tackled this before.

Is it possible? Which headers should I buy to ensure they fit?

 

I have hedman race headers that are mid length. I can't confirm if long tubes will work but my mids have have an aggressive sound and fit great. Just order locking bolts and some good remflex gaskets. I've been blowing gaskets left and right since I got mine because I didn't do that. Summit racing is a good place to order from and has free shipping.

 

Thanks for the reply, I'm very interested in the headers you have. I was unable to find them on summit. I only saw shorties or full length. Also, Hedman Street headers were all I could find-not Headman race headers. Part number maybe?

Also, I read over your build thread, NICE truck. Love the crew cab in these old ones. Yours is automatic so I'm not sure those headers will work with my 5 speed.

 

My mistake, they are street headers. Here's a link to the ones that I have. FYI, these are for a 460. As far as I know these do not fit a 302

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-89510

I looked around and I couldn't find mids of any brand for your truck either. If you do end up choosing between shortys or long tubes, I'd go long tubes. I went with mids because I was worried about them hanging too low only to find out that wasn't the case a little after I ordered the mids.

Here's a few things you should know before getting headers of any type that I wished I'd known

The header bolts WILL BACK OUT. I went through two sets of them dry in less than 2 months. I put on Loc-Tite high temp thread locker and this stopped it from losing them but they still slowly backed out. Also, never use the gaskets that come with the headers. They are paper thin and junk. Get the Stage8 bolts and gaskets I mentioned before and you won't have this issue.

2nd If you get painted headers the paint will burn off the first time the engine gets up to temp. This is not a problem for me because I basically live in the desert. If you live with a lot of moisture or salt get ceramic coated headers because it will retain its coating even at high temp.

3rd When installing them, Install the bolts from the inside tube out. What I mean is start with the header tube in the center and work your way out towards the outside tube so it's crisscrossing like you would if you were installing a wheel on a hub.

4th, you may have to unbolt your engine and jack it up a few inches to get the headers to fit in the space between the block and the frame rail. Mine is a big block so maybe you'll be spared of this. The only thing I miss about my old 302 was all the space in the engine bay

Thanks! It's been a work in progress and a lot of people love it. Everybody wants to drive it and I've had about 8 strangers try to buy it. Hope to start the dually conversion soon after I get the mechanical bugs worked out. Thanks for checkng out my thread. Subscribe to stay updated on it because it's getting a major rework next year and will become my tow rig for a soon to be mine mud toy next spring

If you have more questions let me know

 

Great advice, and I will certainly do it right the first time.

Anyone know which long tubes will fit my truck? 302, 4x4, 5 speed.

 

I will also be changing the heads, and will do MAF conversion, cam, heads, and headers/exhaust at the same time. Can someone recommend heads, cam, and headers I should get? I want it to be done correctly the first time around.

 

Anyone have any luck with long tubes and 5 speed?

 

I had them on my truck, same setup as you only it was a 1990. The headers were Hooker Competition. They ruined my low-end torque, that thing wouldn't pull your hat off starting out with a load, but it was a screamer above 3000RPM. I took em off after about 20K miles and went back to the stock manifolds.