Battery Drain Issue... Any Help?
#1
Battery Drain Issue... Any Help?
I have a '94 F350 7.3L Powerstroke - Turbo Diesel - 4x4 - 5 Speed - Push Button Start
Last week my clutch went to the floor and I had to kill the truck to stop it (no fluid to slave cylinder). Saw that leak was from slave cylinder/clutch line and just replaced the clutch assembly line, master and slave as I saw black pieces coming from the fluid.
I fired it up after reinstating the clutch safety switch on the push rod. Clutch seemed like it wasn't going in all the way, almost like the adjustment was off but I got it home fine. I did bleed the air quite a few times until nothing but fluid was coming from clutch line.
Went to Berkeley for brother's wedding. Came back 3 days later, no start.
Thought it was clutch safety so I tried to bypass it. No start.
Found a disconnected wire from the push button ignition that had disconnected from the push button terminal. I reconnected the wire and found that truck will now start without key in the ignition.
Installed a power interrupter toggle switch and hid it mounted under steering column (still need key to unlock steering wheel). Truck will attempt to fire but as soon as I turn key to the accessory position the battery drains (quickly) and there is a clicking noise behind the firewall driver's side. Tried charging battery, battery still drains immediately, even when not trying to fire.
Still have clutch assembly wires not tied to anything, just hanging out under dash by push rod. Tried connecting the wires together in all various ways but nothing is stopping the clicking or battery drain.
Not sure where the battery is draining or where the clicking is coming from. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all.
Last week my clutch went to the floor and I had to kill the truck to stop it (no fluid to slave cylinder). Saw that leak was from slave cylinder/clutch line and just replaced the clutch assembly line, master and slave as I saw black pieces coming from the fluid.
I fired it up after reinstating the clutch safety switch on the push rod. Clutch seemed like it wasn't going in all the way, almost like the adjustment was off but I got it home fine. I did bleed the air quite a few times until nothing but fluid was coming from clutch line.
Went to Berkeley for brother's wedding. Came back 3 days later, no start.
Thought it was clutch safety so I tried to bypass it. No start.
Found a disconnected wire from the push button ignition that had disconnected from the push button terminal. I reconnected the wire and found that truck will now start without key in the ignition.
Installed a power interrupter toggle switch and hid it mounted under steering column (still need key to unlock steering wheel). Truck will attempt to fire but as soon as I turn key to the accessory position the battery drains (quickly) and there is a clicking noise behind the firewall driver's side. Tried charging battery, battery still drains immediately, even when not trying to fire.
Still have clutch assembly wires not tied to anything, just hanging out under dash by push rod. Tried connecting the wires together in all various ways but nothing is stopping the clicking or battery drain.
Not sure where the battery is draining or where the clicking is coming from. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all.
#2
Sounds like your electrical system is in bad shape. Best guess is your glow plug relay is kicking on when it shouldn't be and draining the batteries. It's slightly to the passenger side of center on top of the motor so it may not be what your hearing but it would drain the batteries vary quickly if it was on all the time.
#3
Second that - push button start means someone's hacked up your electrical system. They did not leave the factory with push button start.
In addition to the GPR possibility mentioned above, you could also have a short that allows power to go to your AC compressor clutch. Do you have any aftermarket stereo gear or an alarm or remote starter installed, anything like that?
In addition to the GPR possibility mentioned above, you could also have a short that allows power to go to your AC compressor clutch. Do you have any aftermarket stereo gear or an alarm or remote starter installed, anything like that?
#4
Yes. I have an aftermarket stereo system with an amp and subs.
The clicking is behind the driver side firewall, sounds like near where the clutch master cylinder is.
There is a large black housing of some sort right at the firewall, sounds like it is maybe coming from there.
Today I will check every fuse I can find and test GPR.
Thank you for your help.
The clicking is behind the driver side firewall, sounds like near where the clutch master cylinder is.
There is a large black housing of some sort right at the firewall, sounds like it is maybe coming from there.
Today I will check every fuse I can find and test GPR.
Thank you for your help.
#5
#6
Found relay #2 (IDM Relay) in the Engine Compartment Fuse box to be the culprit of the clicking noise. My battery terminals are fried, going to try to fix those and replace battery, hopefully the clicking will subside with more juice to the IDM Relay.
Just posting my progress for anyone in the future that may have this issue.
Just posting my progress for anyone in the future that may have this issue.
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