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I got a seat of E6SEs. Can I slap them on a 95 351w after I drill the head bolt holes? Any other modifications needed? Will it mess up the EFI? I don't care about the power just want my truck to run.
Funny you responded I almost just PMed you instead of making a thread. By a bunch do you mean good enough to put a helper in who should drive slow anyway or a bunch hes rocking the seat worried he can't merge on the high way. From my search yesterday I thought it was just top end. That'd I'd be alright til about 3000 rpm then it'd fall on its face.
Funny you responded I almost just PMed you instead of making a thread. By a bunch do you mean good enough to put a helper in who should drive slow anyway or a bunch hes rocking the seat worried he can't merge on the high way. From my search yesterday I thought it was just top end. That'd I'd be alright til about 3000 rpm then it'd fall on its face.
Well in this case, they might be exactly what you need. But, don't assume your helper will be happy with it afterwards. Be prepared for him to drive the snot out of it, cause he's mad at the lack of power. Might be better to fire him now instead of waiting for him to blow the engine.
I have done exactly this actually.. put E6SE heads on a 351, but I completely hogged out the exhaust ports first and reworked the combustion chambers to unshrowd the intake valves, 3 angle valve job... and the motor still ran into a wall a 4000rpm. But it produced outstanding low rpm torque so go ahead and do it but get in there with the timing light afterwords and crank the distributor around because those deep kidney bean shaped chambers produce great swirl and the motor will take a bunch more ignition advance without pinging.
I thought it was you. After I was done searching I couldn't find that post again. So it shouldn't be too bad even if I keep it stock? I bought the stupid things for $100 from an engine builder I trusted 45 mins away. He told me they were GT40 heads. I should of known better. Too good to be true. I already drilled the one and cleaned them up. I'd rather just rock with em if I can.
Too bad the distributors not in back. Guy I used to to work for timed his cheebys by ear from the drivers seat on a steep hill.
Too bad the distributors not in back. Guy I used to to work for timed his cheebys by ear from the drivers seat on a steep hill.
Have you ever tried to reach a distributor back by the firewall in a pickup truck? It's not so bad in a little car but in anything else you'll be glad you're working on a Ford.
Too bad the distributors not in back. Guy I used to to work for timed his cheebys by ear from the drivers seat on a steep hill.
You only need the timing light on a new engine to get it close. Real world tuning requires a good ear, hot day, a trailer, and a steep hill. If you can freight a trailer on a hot day and climb a steep hill without pinging, you got the timing set correctly. Doesn't matter if the light says 10* or 16*, if it doesn't ping with that scenario, it will never ping.
My 90 f150 with a 351 won't go above 9* advance unloaded on an 80* day. My 95 460 has like 14* and loves it.
Each truck is different, everyone uses their truck different, but to get the most out of it with the fuel you're using, gotta go by ear.
Vans are an exception to a few rules. Dist in back would be nice if you were having that much timing issues. I replaced plugs and wires and dist in a 454 RV while sitting on side of hyway with generator going and ac. I timed it by ear while the guy was driving it. That was nice. But my trucks, I like the dist in the front. Makes it easy.