Had one hell of a weekend with Lexi (my '07 3/4ton). Flushed coolant system with acid and alkaline, switched to cat elc, installed a sinister filtration system, and cleaned the egr valve. I throw everything back together, start driving down the road, and then the surging started. Truck started blowing black smoke, threw p0404. As a TEMPORARY fix, i unplugged the valve and it now drives fine, which confirms its the valve and not the turbo vanes. I don't have the facilities to attempt to personally install a delete kit, and cannot afford to pay someone to do it as i am in the middle of purchasing a house. I am going to pull the valve and attempt to clean it again and see if that fixes the problem. I've read a plethora of threads on egr deletes, and have a few questions. When you install custom tuning to keep the cel off, does it tell the computer to ignore the code? or does the computer actually stop actuating the valve? Also, if the tune can actually stop the valve from actuating, can't that be an egr delete in itself? Would't that permanently cut off the flow of exhaust gasses (and coolant in the case of a failed cooler) into the intake? And if the above turns out to be true, can someone write a tune for just that purpose only, and leave everything else stock for non-studded trucks?

 

Oh and fyi, second owner, just turned 60k.

 

Interesting question and I'll be watching for the answer, on whether the tuner will turn off the egr or simply ignore the code...

For my opinion on the delete, I think that the main benefit from that is to eliminate the egr cooler and thereby removing a fairly common failure point, from where head gasket problems can result. At least that's my thought.

 

The problem is the EGR valve can still (at least theoretically) be pushed open by exhaust back pressure, even if it's disabled. Some people have worried that leaving a functional EGR cooler in place with the valve disabled can cause a carbon build up in the EGR cooler that could cause it to nuke itself even without gas flow, but I've never heard about it actually happening.

Someone makes an EGR plug that removes the valve and puts a solid block in place that can't be pushed open, but that might cost more than just replacing the EGR valve.


With my SCT 3015, I can put in a trans-only tune that disables the EGR. I'm still really wanting to call Gearhead and get their trans tune instead of the SCT canned one, but either way it's no power-adding, a better trans program, and no EGR. I guess one of the custom writer's could take your stock program and write the EGR out so you didn't have to do a trans tune, but honestly it shifts significantly better and I wouldn't go back to the stock trans tune.

 

The SCT tuner I have shuts the EGR valve off but during hard acceleration the valve will open a bit.

 

If the plug is in place, wouldn't that stop coolant from entering the intake? if that's the case, why would you care if the egr fails? I understand it violates federal laws, but if the egr valve is bad and needs replaced, other than non compliance with federal regs, what would be the downside of just putting the plug in and having a tune installed to shut off egr function?

I have a six speed, so I don't need trans tuning, but its good to know that custom tuning is available with a stock engine map.

 

The EGR cooler has an inlet and an outlet for exhaust gas, which is what we're talking about at this point. If you plug the EGR valve hole (the "outlet") with this plug (that I can't remember who makes) and the cooler bursts, it dumps coolant into the exhaust via the the "inlet" from the up-pipe, at a point that is 1) higher than the exhaust valves and 2) between the valves and turbo. If the cooler bursts and coolant is lost through the EGR cooler inlet, then white smoke from pumping coolant into the exhaust is the best case scenario, worst case is something is going to get wrecked or you'll overheat for lack of coolant. You can't plug both ends of the EGR cooler without removing it, and that's a popular delete method, search for "stealth delete". Plugging the EGR valve hole only solve half the issue, but since bursting EGR coolers are rare, it might hold you over until you can pull the EGR cooler and weld it shut.

 

Makes sense. I'm not worried about overheating due to coolant loss. I'm careful about watching my levels. As for the cooler rupturing and contaminating the exhaust, I'll keep an eye out for white smoke. My main concern is preventing the traditional problem of coolant leaking into the intake and blowing gaskets/warping heads. It sounds like the plug offers that prevention. Thanks for the help guys.

 

For anyone who's interested, I found it on ebay. Here's the link.


http://m.ebay.com/itm/280858800324?txnId=1236448650018

 

I don't think that's going to fix your issue. If anything, it will create more issues.

 

Care to explain?

 

I've noticed the term EGR delete used alot. It should be called EGR cooler delete. Alot of people think if they remove or unplug the EGR valve, they will not have any EGR problems....

If you remove the EGR valve and replace it with the plug, where is the exhaust/gas that's coming from the EGR cooler going to go?

If you remove/disconnect the EGR valve, it will affect the radiator fan operation. The PCM uses data from EOT, ECT, trans temp and EGR valve to control fan operation.

If you do an EGR cooler delete, then replace the EGR valve with the plug, but keep the EGR valve electrically connected and laying in the valley, that would make sense.

If I understood correctly, you want to replace the EGR valve with the plug, and possibly get a tuner to turn off the CEL? Why not just replace the valve if it is bad? It would probably be cheaper than the EGR plug/tuner route, not to mention the potential issues that Texastech_diesel talked about.

 

I never said unplugging or removing the valve is the end all solution. Im well aware what an exhaust gas recirculator cooler is, why it fails, and what a delete involves. Again, as I wrote above, keeping the valve unplugged is a temporary fix until I can find a solution. Down the road the cab will be coming off for the works (gaskets, studs, regulated return, ect.) When the cab is off I will properly address the egr issue. But in the meantime, as long as I keep the valve plugged in, the Cel won't trip and the fan should operate normally. Use the plug to ensure the truck runs well. My cooler won't fry as long as I keep an eye on my delta, which is currently 8-10 degrees. You are correct in saying a tuner would be more expensive, and in reality if i keep the valve plugged in i wont need it. But ill need it eventually, so why not now? As for the exhaust gasses dead ending, if they have nowhere to go, the same gasses will have contact with the coolant. I would think this would lead to a lower gas temp within the cooler itself. If anything I would think the cooler itself would run cooler due to the same gasses being present.

Bearing all that in mind, I'm still not sure how a plug could make the problem worse.

 

You'll throw a CEL with the EGR valve plug installed paired with the valve plugged in but not in place.

 

Why is that? How can it tell its not installed? Does it sense the absence of fluctuation in exhaust back pressure?