I know there's a lot of info on this but here's a little more.

This went a whole lot easier than I had anticipated. I only shot pb blaster about 2-3 hrs prior and I really don’t think it would’ve been that necessary, because they weren't to hard and I didn’t do the alignment bolt on the first side and did on the second side and both were just as hard and probably the worst of the whole project.

The 2nd side (passenger side) took just over 2 hrs by myself and I wasn’t in a hurry.
I put a jack under the cross tube of the reese hitch, blocked it up to it then fully extended it. Then one under the axle. Put the tire and a block under the frame forward of the wheel well, just in case something didn’t stay where it was intended.

Took all the bolts loose and found it easier to let the spring slide forward and down to get it out. Then reverse to put it back in, but leave the block out and lower the axle more to make it easier to get back in. Once it’s up and bolted each end then put the block back in.

A couple years ago I picked up some 02 F250 springs from a 4x4 shop that were fairly new take offs. But don’t know what code they were. I wanted to keep the pack height the same as original which was one inch taller, so I had to use the old one sided spring with the bumper on it and the second smallest spring from the old pack to get the new ones the same thickness. And swapped the old alignment bolt. With no need for longer U bolts either.

I had picked up a ¾” socket set from HF a while ago to work on the tractor and this ratchet was all it took to break the nuts loose with no extension, on some I used my ½” ratchet with an 18” or so pipe on it.

The rear shackle has to be removed with the spring in order to get the bolt out of the eye and the shackle. So break the nut loose on the eye while it is up there, before taking the shackle loose from the mount. I did this on the first one and forgot on the second side making it a real pia to do on the bench.

The rear shocks changed out very easily also. I’d been putting this off for a couple years expecting it to be a real pia, but fortunately it was rather simple and went smoothly.

Gained 2” with this new set up in the rear. changed the front out almost 3 yrs ago.

We’ll see how it does with the boat this wknd which is just over 12k w/trailer and full of fuel.

Here’s another tip. Use an old ½” paddle/spade bit (grind the point off) in your 18v cordless drill to run the factory jack up and down, even with a load.

 

Well I was going to post some pictures but it says I can't post attachments. You can check them out in my album.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/g/picture/1559549
https://www.ford-trucks.com/g/picture/1559550
https://www.ford-trucks.com/g/picture/1559551
https://www.ford-trucks.com/g/picture/1559553
https://www.ford-trucks.com/g/picture/1559557

 

No it doesn't. All ya have to do is make sure there is no tension or pressure on the bolt and it can be removed.

Stewart

 

There wasn't enough room for the bolt to clear the top of the frame.

 

That's where you have to massage the distance between the axle and the frame.

Stewart

 

My guess is that's a B spring, I will check that part number for you next week.

 

Good looking stance!! It makes me wonder, when I look at mine, how many Excursions Ford would've sold if they had the truck springs under them? I love to see an X that has the V/B or X/C springs under it!!!

 

I just looked it up, it is a B spring.