E40D - hard shift into overdrive
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
E40D - hard shift into overdrive
Hi,
this is my first problem post in this great forum.
I have a problem with the E40D transmission in my 92 E350 RV with the 7.3 IDI diesel.
Shifting of the first gears is smooth, but shifting into overdrive is very hard, it feels like there is some kind of mechanical resistance. This happens especially under load, when going downhill it also shifts smoothly. O/D light is not flashing. Oil is not clear red but of a light brown colour.Last oil and filter change was something like 5000 km ago. Rear ABS sensor is new.
Currently, I am accelerating without O/D. Reaching 40 or 50 mph I can engage O/D by pressing the button without any shift problems.
Could this be related to the TPS? Or is a rebuild due? The transmission has done around 96.000 km by now.
Thanks for all answers in advance.
Rgds , Florian
this is my first problem post in this great forum.
I have a problem with the E40D transmission in my 92 E350 RV with the 7.3 IDI diesel.
Shifting of the first gears is smooth, but shifting into overdrive is very hard, it feels like there is some kind of mechanical resistance. This happens especially under load, when going downhill it also shifts smoothly. O/D light is not flashing. Oil is not clear red but of a light brown colour.Last oil and filter change was something like 5000 km ago. Rear ABS sensor is new.
Currently, I am accelerating without O/D. Reaching 40 or 50 mph I can engage O/D by pressing the button without any shift problems.
Could this be related to the TPS? Or is a rebuild due? The transmission has done around 96.000 km by now.
Thanks for all answers in advance.
Rgds , Florian
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 2
From: western washington
if your trans has a speedo cable exiting the drivers side of the trans, the VSS is the thingy it plugs into. $16, if it has no speedo cable than its in the top of the rear-end, the e4od makes all shifts buy wire, it makes no decisions on its own. the PCM (power train control module) is mounted under the heater (on my van) the filps (fuel injection lever position sensor) or TPS, is $45 this should be set to 1.3 volts, and the tach sensor is ford only part, $76 this is what Fixed the converter lockup problem I had. all the sensors must be good or the trany will make funny shifts, pull on your flashers and then drive it ( this locks out the lock up of the converter) the 2-3 shift is made with converter locking 1/2 second after the shift,unless your foot is on the floor, 3-4 shift is all so made with immediate lockup could also be a problem with the pressure control system, clean all the wire conections on the tranny as this is also controlled by PCM try pulling the codes..
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
Sensors
Thanks,
I still hope this is only sensor related. Have noticed that my speedo needle is bouncing, but the harsh shift is before this happens...
Changing sensors won´t be too bad anyway, I guess...
Will check speedo cable at the transmission and TPS this weekend.
Finding a good transmission shop over here for checking line pressure will be sort of a challenge...
Rgds
Florian
I still hope this is only sensor related. Have noticed that my speedo needle is bouncing, but the harsh shift is before this happens...
Changing sensors won´t be too bad anyway, I guess...
Will check speedo cable at the transmission and TPS this weekend.
Finding a good transmission shop over here for checking line pressure will be sort of a challenge...
Rgds
Florian
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,375
Likes: 841
From: Mi'kma'ki
a sensor issue wont be the reason for new fluid turning brown im afraid.i would insure there is full fluid flow returning to the rear of the trans.once the issue is resolved,i would then flush the burnt fluid asap.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,375
Likes: 841
From: Mi'kma'ki
unhook the line going into the trans at the rear.set a bucket under it first.have someone start the truck and it should pump right out really fast.like i dunno,you should see it pump out like 1/4 of a quart before you can yell to the operator to turn it off! 
if you see a dribble or worst,nothing.then unhook the front line and check there.if you see it pumping right out there,then you know the pump is working and the cooler(s) or line(s) are plugged.if you see it dribbling out the front.... i don't even know if a pump can become "this" shot.then you've got to replace it asap.
one thing is for certain.trans fluid can never be left to become brown.that's burnt and long,long past overdue.let alone inside just 3k miles.
ideally you change it in 20k miles when it "appears" just as good as the day you poured it in.this is your primary issue,even if it resolves nothing in the way it shifts and operates right now.all else is of little concern until this is resolved.it cannot be overstressed how vital this is.i wouldn't dream of using the trans in it's current state for even 1 min at idle.
if you see a dribble or worst,nothing.then unhook the front line and check there.if you see it pumping right out there,then you know the pump is working and the cooler(s) or line(s) are plugged.if you see it dribbling out the front.... i don't even know if a pump can become "this" shot.then you've got to replace it asap.one thing is for certain.trans fluid can never be left to become brown.that's burnt and long,long past overdue.let alone inside just 3k miles.
ideally you change it in 20k miles when it "appears" just as good as the day you poured it in.this is your primary issue,even if it resolves nothing in the way it shifts and operates right now.all else is of little concern until this is resolved.it cannot be overstressed how vital this is.i wouldn't dream of using the trans in it's current state for even 1 min at idle.
Trending Topics
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 2
From: western washington
check your sensors this tranny makes no decisions on its own, it is shift by wire. if you turn on your flashers does it still shift hard? the 3-4 shift is made with a momentary unlocking of the converter, if the converter is delayed it will shift hard, the servo in the converter may have cooked. or a O ring. turning on your flashers prevents lockup of converter in all gears, at all speeds. have a tranny shop pull the codes, from tranny PCM (power train control module)
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
Mess
So, checked return and front oil line. The floor looks like a mess....
The tranny pumps really strong.
And this is what the fluid looks like:
And in comparison fresh oil:
But noticed two things before: the fluid level was too high and the oil lines to the cooler were leaking. The leak is now stopped. And I would now change oil again including torque converter after we check codes next Friday (if this makes sense).
Another question: which sensor is behind here?
Did not do more to my RV because of the fine summer weather here....
Thanks and best regards
Florian
The tranny pumps really strong.
And this is what the fluid looks like:
And in comparison fresh oil:
But noticed two things before: the fluid level was too high and the oil lines to the cooler were leaking. The leak is now stopped. And I would now change oil again including torque converter after we check codes next Friday (if this makes sense).
Another question: which sensor is behind here?
Did not do more to my RV because of the fine summer weather here....
Thanks and best regards
Florian
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 2
From: western washington
if the converter is not locking or is slipping the trans will get extremely hot, warping the converter, melting the seal, ect if the RPM or tach sensor, is bad it can cause erratic operation. brown fluid is burnt, or contains clutch material, or is past its service life. it is not an indicator, that is easily understood. it is prudent to check all the sensors, and pull codes before spending money, good luck, are there any indication's that the trans has, been repaired, previously? my rebuild cost $4,800 all updates, and all steal planets,
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
Codes
Have bought this RV from the first owner, and he did not mention anything about a rebuild. It has done only something like 96k km up today.
Have tried to pull codes by the blinking method with a probe light. RV tells me code 23 and code 67. Any clue this can be related to the tranny? Anyway, will have it in the workshop on Friday.
And I have the next question please; what sensor is behind here (if any), it is the passenger side of the tranny
Have also read more and more in this forum and I think I am getting near to what the problem caused. The tranny has no mechanical speedo cable, when I understand it right. So the rear diff sensor acts as speed sensor for the tacho needle and also as ABS sensor, right? Because, we drove the RV last holiday with the ABS light on. And in this holiday it started to shift hard and/or back and forth 3rd gear / OD.
Changed the sensor at the start of this season. The ABS light is off now, but the needle is still bouncing. This forum directs me to the ABS ring in the diff (which I do not hope).
OK, last question for today evening: I have the sensors TRS, the VSS and the TPS. Anymore related toi the E4OD ?
Thanks
Have tried to pull codes by the blinking method with a probe light. RV tells me code 23 and code 67. Any clue this can be related to the tranny? Anyway, will have it in the workshop on Friday.
And I have the next question please; what sensor is behind here (if any), it is the passenger side of the tranny
Have also read more and more in this forum and I think I am getting near to what the problem caused. The tranny has no mechanical speedo cable, when I understand it right. So the rear diff sensor acts as speed sensor for the tacho needle and also as ABS sensor, right? Because, we drove the RV last holiday with the ABS light on. And in this holiday it started to shift hard and/or back and forth 3rd gear / OD.
Changed the sensor at the start of this season. The ABS light is off now, but the needle is still bouncing. This forum directs me to the ABS ring in the diff (which I do not hope).
OK, last question for today evening: I have the sensors TRS, the VSS and the TPS. Anymore related toi the E4OD ?
Thanks
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
Workshop
Hi,
bet, you guys are burning to get to know the results...
Diagnosis says, worn torque converter clutch and defect TCC solenoid.....
Looks like a rebuild is due.... First quote was something like around USD 4.500,00 incl. new TC and sensors and all available upgrades in the tranny
I would also consider importing an already revised tranny ... need to shop around the net
Rgds
Florian
bet, you guys are burning to get to know the results...
Diagnosis says, worn torque converter clutch and defect TCC solenoid.....
Looks like a rebuild is due.... First quote was something like around USD 4.500,00 incl. new TC and sensors and all available upgrades in the tranny
I would also consider importing an already revised tranny ... need to shop around the net
Rgds
Florian
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
Oil and TCC
Hi,
have a couple of questions more please...
I was at an RV meeting this weekend and spoke to a guy about my E4OD problem.
He claimed, that the TCC is also active in third gear, so when it is really gone I should notice it also when driving in third gear... Is this true?
He also advised to change the ATF, as we found out that I have used ATF according to spec Dexron III+H / Mercon. He said to change over to Mercon V and he would not wonder when all problems would disappear....
What do you think?
Thanks in advance.
Rgds
Florian
have a couple of questions more please...
I was at an RV meeting this weekend and spoke to a guy about my E4OD problem.
He claimed, that the TCC is also active in third gear, so when it is really gone I should notice it also when driving in third gear... Is this true?
He also advised to change the ATF, as we found out that I have used ATF according to spec Dexron III+H / Mercon. He said to change over to Mercon V and he would not wonder when all problems would disappear....
What do you think?
Thanks in advance.
Rgds
Florian