This has been done to death back in the day before my time here.the old thread however had no pics.

Needless to say I am very happy with the improved shift quality now.
I needed to service the ol slush box anyway and with rre coming..well I just did it.

Pics to follow so more can make these old e4od z last a bit better.

 

Good deal Aaron. That should be one less thing to worry about now.

 

Yep yep.after 2yrs of ownership it was time.and I helicoiled a few pan bolt holes so now I have all bolts for the first time.

 

What made you decide to do the cOOn mod?

 

Just trying to improve the shift quality.it is a very nice crisp but not harsh shift.and...it was free :-) cause I'm tight!

 

I am very interested in this! Do tell!!

 

Remove the pan and filter.



I am kinda mad at myself. I thought I took a pic of the valve body before I removed it.


Either way,this is the section of valve body that runs side to side.

It has 3 larger valves and one smaller valve. It is retained with 8mm headed bolts that are all the same length.THere are 2 studs with 10mm headded nuts. I removed the bolts and then let the studs be the last to let it down.

wash the valve body out. I tore it down and cleaned it. Honestly brake kleen and compressed air would probably work fine. I am just psycho when I am in a trans.

drill the valve body 3 places with a 1/16" drill at an angle. each location is marked by the notches . carefully drill with a nice new bit and dont egg the hole. I had a .058 bit and a 1/16 is .062. .

My shift quality is much improved but not ujoint snapping.

All in all I would definetly recommend this mod to anyone with a stock e4od.

I meant to be more step by step but after dropping the pan and taking my atf bath I got in a hurry. also finding several more pan bolts with no threads . I got in a hurry. btw pan bolts are 8mm 1.25 pitch.

 

Where do you drill and what are the reasons for drilling them? I'm interested in doing it to mine probably!

 

yeah, drilling on my valve body scares the crap out of me...I am pretty curious. You have bigger ba**s than me Aaron! LOL!!

 

Byron...its no biggie at all!

If you do want to I have a core here I can do it to all ready to install and mail it to you if you send me your old one.

Josh.look at the pics.I showed where to drill.three places where the little div its in the walls are.I cross drilled at about a 45* angle.
When I build c6 trans I cross drill for full lube in park.and other things too.
Next I'm gonna build a new trans for Clifford.I think I'm gonna do it before my present has issue..I like to have my old one working sitting around. Never be too well prepared..and I have another core on the way too :-)

 

I think if you drill a hole too big you can always put a plate from Transgo or other in and restore it back to stock.

 

No.the actual accumulator body gets drilled.not the seperator plate.

Wish I knew how to put arrows on the pivs to point out what I'm talking about.

 

Separator plate, forgot what it was called. I think the holes in a separator plate, before being drilled, mimic the holes in the valve body. And part of a shift kit process is to open up similar holes as you did, but even much larger. Then you tune your shift by drilling the corresponding hole in the separator plate. And if you get too aggressive with it (by drilling too big of a hole in the separator plate) you can simply buy a new unaltered separator plate ($35?) and start over or just leave it stock. Just saying that for people fearing they will do irreparable harm that there are ways to recover from a mis-drilled hole in the valve body.

Of course all of what I am saying goes against the basic premise of this mod, improved shifts for near zero dollars.

 

Drilling this is so easy...however if a guy isn't comfortable then don't. I just didn't want to spend money on a trans go kit in an old worn trans.