Long story, but here are highlights:

1975 F100 straight 6, single barrel Carter carb.

Don't drive it much, wouldn't start, accidentally dropped a foreign body down choke (doh! Don't ask...), no time to do anything, left it for a few more weeks.

Tried to motivate (not mechanic) son by telling him it'd be a good project for summer. He removed (and didn't label) all tubes from carb and EGR spacer plate, couldn't unscrew nuts, gave up and went back to Xbox. Grrrr...

Nice mom says, it's okay honey, let's do it together! We get carb and spacer off, remove intruder, replace carb stack with new gaskets, put back tubes in what we THINK is correct array, spray in carb cleaner, manage to get it to sputter, bang and start. Briefly.

Stalls out, proceeds to spray gas out the fuel bowl vent tube every time we try to start it. He gives up again, goes to watch World Cup. I spend yesterday and today researching (can you tell who's hobby and truck this is?). I have learned (thank you, FTE forum!) that I-- I mean WE-- may have to "spank" the carb with a mallet to possibly loosen the float, prepared for more intensive process if need be, but I want to make sure that everything is reconnected properly, especially since it is a vacuum system and may be sucking something in the wrong place. Can't find any diagrams of where all the tubes from the PCV and EGR apparatii are supposed to go. Any photos or indicators of which tubes come from where and go into the carb and riser would be MUCH appreciated. First post, but have visited much and learned a lot from you all...

Once the World Cup is over, we'll give it another go. In the meantime, I get to play with the wiring in the cab!

Gratefully,

-farmer kelly

 

Welcome to FTE. First off, if it's pushing fuel out the bowl vents, the float is stuck open. That needs to be corrected before doing anything else. The carburetor is going to have to come off and apart.

The PCV valve runs straight to a manifold vacuum source (intake stream). There will either be a vacuum tree in the intake, or more likely a barb on the spacer plate under the carburetor. The EGR valve accepts ported vacuum (off the carburetor). Ported vacuum has no signal at idle, then tracks manifold vacuum after the throttle plate opens. At a minimum, a 2-port PVS (ported vacuum switch) needs to be placed in series between the ported source and the valve.

Better lock up that XBOX. That's a good way to let the summer slip away fast. Your son will be much better off getting his hands dirty. My .02

 

Hi: in the meantime since my original question, the truck has proved a more magnetic draw than video games (amazing!), and we managed to free the stuck float by tapping the outside of the fuel bowl with a mallet ("spanking" it, thanks to FTE forum members' previous posts!!!). Between that, being filled again with fuel and perhaps just a bit of rest, the squirting stopped, and she started up again! Idling rather irregularly, but idling nonetheless.

Appreciate all $.02, this site has been our go-to during the whole process.

Many thanks!

-farmer kelly

 

Considering how glad I was growing up when we got our first black and white TV it's hard for me to relate to the whole Xbox craze but I have been known to play "duke-nuke-em" with the grand kids what a hoot ..

The YFA carb is one of the easiest carbs to rebuild so your in luck there .. and after the rebuild with a hand held vacuum gauge connected to manifold vacuum you can dial in the carb with the needle valve to max vacuum .. Also the needle should hold steady at about 18 or so .. Hope this Summer and project turns out to be a fond memory for you and yours Wish you the best ..