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I forgot to mention. Make sure the breather valve is clear when you take it off. Later models had dust caps over the top to prevent clogging but yours is the old style with out a dust cap. If it's clogged clean it out until you can blow air through it. If you don't clear the valve you can build up pressure within your axle housing and blow axle seals, letting oil get on your brake linings.
I don't see how that can work. Ports on a MC or proportioning valve are straight threads for flare nuts; hydraulic brake light switches are tapered pipe thread.
Ross, I hadn't noticed that yet, but I'm sure it would have become evident when it leaked..... I wonder if they make an adapter for just such an occasion? I'll find out soon. Thanks,
I'd recommend cutting a new inspection port in the floor over the repositioned MC fill cap. Filling the MC and bleeding will be a real chore, trying to get fluid into the MC and seeing how much is in it will be a real exercise in frustration!
I hated to think about it, but I'm sure it will need done. Anyone got some pictures of what they did? Maybe a marine cover or something like folks use when they relocate the gas tank?
My preference is to start with the longest lines that can be run in one piece between fixed points, such as from front T to pass side flex line, from rear T to rear axle wheel cylinders. I also like to use 1/16" TIG or uncoated brass or steel gas welding rod in 3' lengths to plan the routing/bends. Determine the bend radius your tubing bender makes and match it with a round object strong enough to bend the wire around. Keep the straight sections as straight as possible and directly to a supporting surface avoiding diagonal runs for a clean installation. Don't run a line tight between fixed points. Put in a small Z bend to allow the tube to shrink/expand with temperature changes. Avoid running lines higher than MC. Use a short premade line between proportioning valve and residual pressure valves. Preplan lengths so that you can use the R-valves as couplers between two tubes. DO NOT run brake lines on the bottom or across bottom of frame. Do not run lines in the air unsupported for more than 6 - 8".
Great advice once again, and nice looking lines. I'll be too ashamed to show any pictures of my final product now......
It just unscrews. put a box-end wrench or 6 point socket on the breather vale and unscrew.
As stated flaring brake lines can be a PITA. I managed to use pre-made lines for all but one of my lines. I took the lines off tried to straighten them out and measured them. On the line going to the rear I had to get a union and use two lines but that way I avoided the risk of leaks. Just an option.
I read here that some parts stores (I think they said NAPA) had the ability to flair brake lines if you need to go that route.
My hope is to use as many pre-made lines as possible. I'd rather install a union than flare them myself from what I've been reading. I did end up getting the breather out today. It looks like it has been repaired or something and just didn't seem right, but it came out with a deep socket that was bigger than it was suppose to be because I had to deal with the repair job on it. I'm hoping they make new ones so I don't have to put that one in. It was actually clear on the inside though, not plugged.
I did get the MC mocked up yesterday as well:
I took off the front linkage so I could get to the bolts easier
Used the box it came in and some wood blocks to hold it up
Bent a small piece of metal and made sure it was sharp so I could properly mark the holes that needed drilled on the side. Tight squeeze!
This might help save someone time in the future.
And no worried cruiser456, you're question was spot on. I'll keep you guys informed with more annoying questions and slightly less annoying pictures.
AXRacer,
As always, educational information coming from you. It will help me as I assemble my brakes. Added this link to the thread bookmarks for future reference. Thanks to you and to all the others who contributed to this thread. Pictures coming soon on my builld.
While reading through this thread I got an email from Eastwood, they are having a sale on their brake tools, how timely is that. You might want to look at the video on the professional flaring tool, it's expensive, it makes perfect flares, does so in less than a minute and it takes all the hassle out of making brake lines. I have never had to made a trip to the auto parts store for a pre made line since I purchased it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1 I don't see how that can work. Ports on a MC or proportioning valve are straight threads for flare nuts; hydraulic brake light switches are tapered pipe thread.
Originally Posted by sere0501
Ross, I hadn't noticed that yet, but I'm sure it would have become evident when it leaked..... I wonder if they make an adapter for just such an occasion? I'll find out soon. Thanks,
The ports also have a seat for the flare at the bottom so a switch would bottom out, damaging the port and/or the switch. It is quite likely there is no port for a pressure switch since the pressure brake light switch has gone the way of the dodo bird. Most vehicles today use a much more reliable mechanical switch on the linkage.
F2 parts truck after I grabber the engine/trans/radiator/seat/hood/doors/heater/glass. Sold it for 50 bucks less then I paid!
Too bad you you sold the F2 as I would have loved to get both the left/right upper and lower front fenders. I have no idea though how I would of gotten them to Michigan from Alaska. Dang!
Too bad you you sold the F2 as I would have loved to get both the left/right upper and lower front fenders. I have no idea though how I would of gotten them to Michigan from Alaska. Dang!
I would have loved to keep it, but I know I'll be heading down to the lower 48 next year and can't rightly take 2 with me. I could have had one for each one of my boys. Maybe next time......
Thought I'd give an update on progress. Dad and I spent the better part of the day in town looking for parts. Unfortunately the NAPA that is only 15 miles away wasn't much help so I went another 15 miles down the road into town and got about 90% of everything. I got the spindles back from the machine shop and dad primarily worked on getting one side put back together:
Notice the grease zerks. I have not moved them yet as they don't seem like they will be interfering with anything. Someone please let me know if I'm missing something.
The machine shop cleaned the spindles very well for me and the bearing adapter on the first side went on great!
I bounced between helping on the front and running a couple of lines:
Here's my initial plan before any bends. 10# residual to the rear,2# to the front,and an adapter for the pressure valve.
I think this adapter will allow me to use my original style brake light switch for now..... we'll see if it leaks.
The other end of the adapter is made for the flared end of the brake line. Got this piece at a hydraulics shop.
Had the same shop make a hose for the rear breather assembly and had to use the old junction. No one had one in town and I didn't want to wait 10 days to get it or pay for an overnight to Alaska.......
Mocked up the rear main line and brake censor switch.
I have a fuel line and tail light wires to move around at some point,but just getting things situated for now.
Anyone want to explain how to adjusted their linkage for the MC to the brake pedal? I see all the warnings in the instructions about it but they don't really lay out how to do it. I know I read where Ben had his lock up on the first trip out (so if you're following this Ben, please chime in). Thanks
I'll be surprised if the switch doesn't leak, doesn't look like the right fitting did it say it was a female double flare to female NPT?. If you are going to plumb the switch at the end of a pig tail like that you will have to bleed the switch or else air in the line will keep the switch from working properly and the air could work it's way back into the system lines. I wouldn't do it like that, but then it's not mine.
I agree with Ax I think your going to have a spongy pedal. I'd try to hook it right to the proportioning valve with no pig tail.
The adjustment on the pedal should have a bit of slack when at rest. There should be an adjustment on the rod coming out of the Master Cylinder to the pedal. Remember a little at the master cylinder is a Lot at the pedal. You should have somewhere around a 1/2" pedal travel before you feel the pedal start applying the brakes.
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you can build up pressure within your axle housing and blow axle seals, letting oil get on your brake linings. 
Dang!
