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Rebuild or crate my 7.3??

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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 01:03 AM
  #1  
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Rebuild or crate my 7.3??

So I have a 2001 7.3 250 crew cab. It's my first diesel I bought it and unfortunately I was unaware the engine is bad. The mechanics believe the case is cracked as pressure is building up in the oil pan and actually forcing oil back up and out of the dipstick. Anyway the truck has some after markets for performance and the mechanics say it was due to added hp the stock engine couldn't take it so I would like to put a performance engine in. The mechanics recommend black mamba but only a few seem to like them i was wondering what you guys would do my budget is 10k. If you could be as specific as possible I would appreciate it as I am not super mechanically inclined and trying to learn as much as possible. I would like the most hp for my $ but also want it to be a solid engine. I would really appreciate any information even if it's unrelated to the engine but other things I might be interested in looking into with this truck. Thank you in advance guys.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 02:49 AM
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I would start by asking what your goals are.

Second, Black Mamba motors do not have a very good reputation, many claim it's marketing hype.

If you were looking to buy a complete drop in high horsepower motor, you might try swamps diesel, but they are pricey, 18k for a "competition motor" around 8k for a stock performance, and 6 for a Ford reman.

If you wanted to have yours built for high HP, I would suggest sourcing many of your parts through Clay at Riffraffdiesel.com

For instance, Factory Overhaul Kit - Standard Bore - Riffraff Diesel Performance and have the bowls cut and coated. Add some Forged Cryo'd Connecting Rods - Riffraff Diesel Performance and head studs, that will be a pretty solid build for most peoples builds HP wise.

All that said, if it were me, I would find a used craigslist or junkyard motor and swap it in, start off stock and build it up myself, learning about the motor how it works.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 04:28 AM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by BigAlsPSD
I would start by asking what your goals are.

Second, Black Mamba motors do not have a very good reputation, many claim it's marketing hype.

If you were looking to buy a complete drop in high horsepower motor, you might try swamps diesel, but they are pricey, 18k for a "competition motor" around 8k for a stock performance, and 6 for a Ford reman.

If you wanted to have yours built for high HP, I would suggest sourcing many of your parts through Clay at Riffraffdiesel.com

For instance, Factory Overhaul Kit - Standard Bore - Riffraff Diesel Performance and have the bowls cut and coated. Add some Forged Cryo'd Connecting Rods - Riffraff Diesel Performance and head studs, that will be a pretty solid build for most peoples builds HP wise.

All that said, if it were me, I would find a used craigslist or junkyard motor and swap it in, start off stock and build it up myself, learning about the motor how it works.
I can't think of a better answer and options than this based on the original post.....

If you can't get a decent CL or Junk yard motor I would think the $6K option with some choice parts would be another really solid option again depending on your goals. Obviously if you wanted a true high HP build then you were probably prepared to go deep into the bank account anyways....
 
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 04:54 AM
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With your budget I would focus more on building a solid engine, and then you can add power to it later with out having to worry. Most performance upgrades for this truck can be done with basic hand tools in your drive way.

Are you going for more of dedicated race or sled puller type build, or a dedicated heavy hauler, or are you trying to do a little of both?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 06:30 AM
  #5  
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The fact of the matter is, you can search for a lower mile pre 2001 running engine, which should get you forged rods. Price range? who knows...$1000-2000?

Or you can rebuild yours. I did one maybe 5-6 years ago, by the time it was in and running it was $4500. Rebuild kit for the block, rebuilt injects from Swamps, water pump, oil cooler....machine work, new oil pan.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 09:14 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by Dan V
The fact of the matter is, you can search for a lower mile pre 2001 running engine, which should get you forged rods. Price range? who knows...$1000-2000?

Or you can rebuild yours. I did one maybe 5-6 years ago, by the time it was in and running it was $4500. Rebuild kit for the block, rebuilt injects from Swamps, water pump, oil cooler....machine work, new oil pan.
I will be right around 3500-4000 after everything going into the "Zombieheart" rebuild.
That rebuild kit is a big hit... but if you get it through Clay, it is the most inclusive kit for the price you can get. (Injectors are factored into my build cost)

You could get lucky and find a junkyard that does not know what they have and almost steal a motor... the one I stuck in TXtinct was complete with injectors and turbo... and it was only 750$ with no core charge.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 11:17 AM
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hey, welcome to the site! i would lean towards rebuilding what you've got. or shop around for a quick removal/replacement engine. mine needs work and i'm planning the rebuild path… good luck!
 
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 11:51 AM
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Or, you could look for a good 12v 5.9l...It makes 300hp really cheaply, often lasts 1000000 miles and gets fairly good gas mileage.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by lartross
Or, you could look for a good 12v 5.9l...It makes 300hp really cheaply, often lasts 1000000 miles and gets fairly good gas mileage.
I would usually agree with you on this but it doesn't make much sense this time. Plus in a SD the mileage is about the same as a 7.3 by the time it's said and done.

You guys are over looking a big thing here.... If it's an automatic your engine budget gets chopped in half because you're going to have to upgrade that first other wise you'll be doing that next.

Also have you confirmed that your crank case vent is open/clear? Were all assuming that his mechanic is 7.3 inclined. Most of what is being said with his problem and cause isn't making sense to me one bit.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by JOHN2001
I would usually agree with you on this but it doesn't make much sense this time. Plus in a SD the mileage is about the same as a 7.3 by the time it's said and done.

You guys are over looking a big thing here.... If it's an automatic your engine budget gets chopped in half because you're going to have to upgrade that first other wise you'll be doing that next.

Also have you confirmed that your crank case vent is open/clear? Were all assuming that his mechanic is 7.3 inclined. Most of what is being said with his problem and cause isn't making sense to me one bit.
Ok guys thank you so much for all the input and information. I would like to go more of a rebuild route because I would like to learn more about my engine. Idk if the crank case is clear how would I go about doing that muself the mechanic I took it to specializes in 7.3. Supposedly. He did also recommend the mamba though. The tranny is already an upgraded ats stage 2. And I would like to build a high hp truck it isn't used alot for hauling and I have no desire for trailer pulls but it is used offroad quite a bit.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 02:01 PM
  #11  
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It's good you came here for advice. These guys will keep you on the right track. But I do have some thoughts to add in your decision making. We've seen this before. Guy buys a diesel, knows nothing about them, takes it to a shop, and they nickle and dime you to death. If you're lucky, they will do the job correctly, if you aren't, you will now have spent another 10 grand and it still won't be right. Just be careful, make sure the shop knows what they are doing, and their way around a 7.3.
You said they *believe* the case is cracked. Well it's good to have suspicions to narrow things down, but don't go replacing an engine just on a belief. Things need to be verified. If they can't verify a catastrophic problem then make them. It could be something much simpler. Just do your homework so they don't take you for a ride. This place will give you all the info you need so you know they are treating you right.
A $6000 engine will eat that $10,000 budget up when labor and fluids, and other incidentals are added.
Personally, for a very green person, and not knowing anything else about the condition of the truck or what you have in it, it might be worthwhile to dump it while it is still fresh to you and find a good runner.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 02:08 PM
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Thank you and ya that's why I've been asking around everywhere what people think and I love this truck and honestly got taken on it I spent to much in it because I believed it to be a good running truck I'd never get near my money back. That being said I don't want to sell anyway. As far as labor goes I have several friends who are mechanically inclined and willing to help me in whatever I decide to do so no matter which route I chose I will do all the work myself. It will help me learn more about the truck. So what do I need to have them do to verify the case is cracked short of tearing the whole thing down is there a way to tell
 
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 02:24 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by fscarrow
Thank you and ya that's why I've been asking around everywhere what people think and I love this truck and honestly got taken on it I spent to much in it because I believed it to be a good running truck I'd never get near my money back. That being said I don't want to sell anyway. As far as labor goes I have several friends who are mechanically inclined and willing to help me in whatever I decide to do so no matter which route I chose I will do all the work myself. It will help me learn more about the truck. So what do I need to have them do to verify the case is cracked short of tearing the whole thing down is there a way to tell
If it is cracked, and the crack creates a leak path to the outside world, then yes.
You can try an oil dye.

Beyond that... not so much.

If you start down the path of disassembly to find the failure... pull the engine and put it on a stand. It will save you the headache of fighting with the heads, and all the other under hood clutter. And when the heads are off, and it is discovered you have broken piston rings/cylinder damage... it will have to come out anyway.

Due to the weight of one of these engines... dont skimp on cherry picker capacity. You need a 2ton crane due to the need for extending the boom. A 1ton picker extended to the halfway point is to close to capacity for me to attempt it. These monsters weigh in close to 1200# fully dressed.

Dont let anyone tell you a Harbor Freight 2ton crane is not up to the task.
They work just fine. At this point i have almost lost count of how many i have pulled with mine.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 02:33 PM
  #14  
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fscarrow ! it does not show where your from? You never know you might have one of the brothers here close by and most would help you out in some of your decisions ! But stick around here and you will get the best advice for your 7.3 bar none! You did not say but is this your first diesel ? You might be surprised how much power these trucks really have! With a few good mods these trucks can be bad ***!!

Smokie
 
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Smokiesman
fscarrow ! it does not show where your from? You never know you might have one of the brothers here close by and most would help you out in some of your decisions ! But stick around here and you will get the best advice for your 7.3 bar none! You did not say but is this your first diesel ? You might be surprised how much power these trucks really have! With a few good mods these trucks can be bad ***!!

Smokie
Yes this is my first diesel and even with the loss of power it still is a beast it will run 15s even with the lift and 35s o love this and am excited to learn more about it and get it running properly. Also I am located in western colorado.
 
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