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Help...here's the story. About a month ago my 97 Power Stroke (69k miles) began dying on me so after discussions with my dealer I replaced the camshaft sensor and the problem was fixed. Today it won't start again and it's a similar problem. I replaced the sensor but it still won't start. When cranking the tach shows about 300 rpm, I get some light smoke out of the tailpipe and on a couple or occasions it tries to fire once or twice, almost like a loaded up gas engine but it won't start. I changed the fuel filter a month ago, drained any water that might have been there today and still nothing. Any ideas??
Moses
There is no crankshaft sensor on a 7.3L diesel engine.
I would guess that the solenoid that activates your glow plugs is defective (either not cycling or cycling but not delivering power to the glow plug system). Those troublesome solenoids are available from NAPA.
Originally posted by The Diesel Dude There is no crankshaft sensor on a 7.3L diesel engine.
I would guess that the solenoid that activates your glow plugs is defective (either not cycling or cycling but not delivering power to the glow plug system). Those troublesome solenoids are available from NAPA.
Joe, are you referring to the glow plug relay (or at least that is what I have heard it called anyway)? My truck had the same problem but the "service engine" light came on. Do the pre '99 trucks have the same fault indicator set up?
Originally posted by Thumper4995 The Diesel Dude, are you referring to the glow plug relay (or at least that is what I have heard it called anyway)? My truck had the same problem but the "service engine" light came on. Do the pre '99 trucks have the same fault indicator set up?
Craig
Yes, glow plug relay.
I'm not sure how the fault detection is set up but a 515 code indicates "G/P relay out put circuit failure." You'll need
to check the service manual for your year to see if the codes are the same and for diagnostic procedures.
Since your tach is registering 300 rpm, its a safe bet that your CPS is working.
From your description (trying to fire and possibly loading up suggests you are getting fuel injected into the cylinders), the next item to suspect would, as suggested, be the cold start system (glow plug relay or too many bad glow plugs).
If you don't have the meter to check for voltage at or through the Glow Plug Relay (GPR), you have two other optioins:
1) Carefully use one lead of a set of heavy jumper cables and bridge the two large posts on the relay for about 30 seconds and then start it up
2) another easy way to eliminate or pin-point the cold start sysem is to plug in the block heater overnight and the engine will be warm enough to start without the glow plugs.
If it starts after bridging the GPR, you'll know the GPR is bad (most likelly) or not receiving trigger voltage (less likely).
If it starts right up after the block heater, you will at least know to look at the cold start system for the problem.
Thanks for the replies. I've tried the things you've suggested to no avail. I even replaced the GPR as they're fairly cheap and nothing still. It still tries to fire for a brief moment when I crank it over but it never goes. I'm about to take it to the dealer but would appreciate any other ideas anyone might have. Thanks
Then TIMC63, in the pervious post is probably correct in that you've probably got several defective glow plugs. If your old glow plug relay had stuck shut, it would burn out the glow plugs.
Joe,
Thanks for the direction. I've checked the glow plugs and they all are good. That's assuming the way to check them is per some advice I've seen elsewhere. I used a 12V test light hooked to my battery post and pulled the plug at the valve cover and touched each of the glow plug pins. Each lit up so I assume the plugs are good? Do you know of any issues with the fuel delivery system I might check or any other ideas?
It is not completely beyond comprehension that they may be grounded and still be burned out. Try plugging in your block heater for several hours and see if it starts then. If it does, your glow plugs are burned out.
The surest way to check the glow plugs is with an ammeter. They pull (I think) 40 amps each so the first on cycle should be about 320 amps (give or take 20 amps).
Also, check your owners manual and see if there is an inertia switch somewhere that might be tripped for some reason. If not, find the power distribution box (probably under the hood) and see if one of the relays is marked "fuel pump" and switch that relay with one of the other identical relays (the air conditioner cut out, for example) and see if that gets you going. Those relays are about $5 each at NAPA.
I agree that the next step would be to plug in the heater and at least see if you can get the truck to fire. Again, if it does you know to do a more detailed troubleshooting job on the cold start system.
I think its best to eliminate the more likely causes before assuming there is a more complex one, though I have assumed the worst before.
You earlier had said the truck seemed like it was trying to fire and you could smell fuel... if that is still the case, that points even more towards cold start system.
I'd try the block heater before you start turning cash over to the dealer!!!
Thanks again. Tim, per your earlier instructions I did plug in my block heater and no change. It's still firing for a very short period right at the beginning when I turn the key and for the first few seconds I'll see smoke coming from the tailpipe but if I keep cranking after about 5 seconds that stopps also. I appreciate the help, I'll try the things mentioned above.
I doubt if he is having a glow plug problem, especially this time of the year. I have mine on a switch and with them off, on a cold start, it fires right up.
I'm thinking it's a fuel problem, either delivery or quality.
I guess you are looking at fuel supply now since the block heater didn't help. The fuel pump (all mechanical, not electric) in our 97's not only lifts from the tanks but after going through the filter has a second higher pressure stage (upwards of 60 psi) that actually feeds the injectors.
You can read fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the regulator block, however, I only know what running pressures should be.
Does anyone know what kind of pressure he should see there at cranking speed???
I would do as Alanscott suggests and make sure you are getting fuel, at sufficient pressure. As the fuel pump is a wear item, I'd troubleshoot that area before suspecting any electrical or more complex problems. If it comes to replacing the pump, it is a bugger but it is do-able at home (I have).
One last, when you changed your fuel filter did you check the little screen going into the regulator. I have heard that can be a cause of low power, and it would seem that if clogged bad enough could restrict pressure or flow to a no-start condition.
Does NAPA carry the Cam position sensor for the 99-03 PSDs?
I have been meaning to pick one up for a while to keep as a spare. If not, can anyone recommend (via PM) a good source, otherwise I'll wait till I go back to the states in Sept.
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