91 crewcab with SD running gear. Frame off resto build.
#17
#20
#21
I don't know if I'd mess with that rear shaft for 120. My thoughts are with the newer axles and divorced transfercase setup anyway your going to be into custom driveshaft territory. So just have your current rear shaft modified to work. That 2007 shaft is nothing more than a parts donor.
Now if you don't have any front shaft I'd try to round one up. In my 89 F350 with NP205 I have a 1983 F250 front drive shaft installed. I don't remember if I needed a special joint or not. I don't have a CV in my front shaft like factory F350's do.
Now if you don't have any front shaft I'd try to round one up. In my 89 F350 with NP205 I have a 1983 F250 front drive shaft installed. I don't remember if I needed a special joint or not. I don't have a CV in my front shaft like factory F350's do.
#22
Thanks. Would I need a CV joint or just s u joint on the axle, or slip yoke on the transfer case? Acually...im confused as how to do the front shaft entirely now.
The np205 just has a regular U joint yoke on the front output, and with the rear output.
Need some kind of give or slip in the front driveshaft.
I know my current carrier bearing is dying-can i get a replacement off rockauto?
Also i would need the new style flange on the shaft and not the ujoint yoke i currently have.
The np205 just has a regular U joint yoke on the front output, and with the rear output.
Need some kind of give or slip in the front driveshaft.
I know my current carrier bearing is dying-can i get a replacement off rockauto?
Also i would need the new style flange on the shaft and not the ujoint yoke i currently have.
#23
For the front driveshaft, i forgot that stock driveshafts has a slip joint built in to them. This is nice means i dont need another carrier bearing, and because of the length i think i can just run 2 u joints without the CV joint. But if i find a good pric eon a compeltle cv joint DS i will take that.
also I can save myself about 100$ by extending and welding the shaft myself. Doesnt need to be balanced as i wouldbt be in 4wd over 60 kph.
So ill take my 100$ i saved and invest in a 14" chop saw to make the tube a smooth cut
Also, the rear end i showed-i was dumb for not checking at the yard but it was hte worst pinion slop ever. Im sure the pinion gear itself is toast too.
Im swapping for a rear end with 114k miles (this has 140) at the yard tomorrow. jsut gotta pull the calipers off of this one as the other doesnt have any.
Going to buy a 20 ton press tonight for well..anythign i may need to press. Hopefully the new rear end is nice, but if it has even a little bit of play ill rebuild it.
Bad news..i foudn some threads-and my H1 wheels in stock configuration simply wont work.
However-for a few hundred more I can have them custom build by Stazworks.
They are 205 a wheel. 8x170 pattern, 3-3/8 backspacing. Need to double check again but I believe this is what I need to run them with no clearance issues on the 05 SD stuff.
I like his center designes the most-the 1ton Mod. No one has this style available.
They would be first sandblasted, then power coated, and assembled. Trying to gt a package deal with the MTR tires, dont know if he stocks these ones. Lead time is 4-5 weeks which is perfect. So im going to work with John at Stazworks to get these going asap.
also I can save myself about 100$ by extending and welding the shaft myself. Doesnt need to be balanced as i wouldbt be in 4wd over 60 kph.
So ill take my 100$ i saved and invest in a 14" chop saw to make the tube a smooth cut
Also, the rear end i showed-i was dumb for not checking at the yard but it was hte worst pinion slop ever. Im sure the pinion gear itself is toast too.
Im swapping for a rear end with 114k miles (this has 140) at the yard tomorrow. jsut gotta pull the calipers off of this one as the other doesnt have any.
Going to buy a 20 ton press tonight for well..anythign i may need to press. Hopefully the new rear end is nice, but if it has even a little bit of play ill rebuild it.
Bad news..i foudn some threads-and my H1 wheels in stock configuration simply wont work.
However-for a few hundred more I can have them custom build by Stazworks.
They are 205 a wheel. 8x170 pattern, 3-3/8 backspacing. Need to double check again but I believe this is what I need to run them with no clearance issues on the 05 SD stuff.
I like his center designes the most-the 1ton Mod. No one has this style available.
They would be first sandblasted, then power coated, and assembled. Trying to gt a package deal with the MTR tires, dont know if he stocks these ones. Lead time is 4-5 weeks which is perfect. So im going to work with John at Stazworks to get these going asap.
#24
#25
going to be putting in an overhead switch panel which will control most of the electrical on the truck. Somethign with breakers preferably. might just make one to fit my dimensions.
Building a nice overhead to house most of the switches, radio, compass, some storage yada yada
all firewall connections will be made with push and twist to lock milspec style connectors
Will install a spare one for any other thing si may come up with down the road or i forget/run out of money for.
Building a nice overhead to house most of the switches, radio, compass, some storage yada yada
all firewall connections will be made with push and twist to lock milspec style connectors
Will install a spare one for any other thing si may come up with down the road or i forget/run out of money for.
#26
dindt post to this site in a while.
quick cliffs: ditched the military wheel idea
got some 17" black rock wheels
tires will be cooper discoverer s/t Maxx.
Ordered an 05 CCLB frame from texas for 760 delivered to my house thru my yard.
Figured it owuld be easier and more time effective if I make a full roller, bigger stronger stouter frame, and all the front components will just bolt right up to it! I can put the fuel tank in, run all SS brake lines, bascially have it ready to go and drop my body on it, adjust cab and bed mounts as neccessary.
New wheelbase is 172", mine is 168. so i will have to modify my rear box wheel arches. Theyre home made anyway so no big deal.
The frame will also be wired electricaly ready for the hitch, accessory lights, and my lift gate. Should be fun.
Bought some torches for 350 bucks with 3/4 full tanks. score!
quick cliffs: ditched the military wheel idea
got some 17" black rock wheels
tires will be cooper discoverer s/t Maxx.
Ordered an 05 CCLB frame from texas for 760 delivered to my house thru my yard.
Figured it owuld be easier and more time effective if I make a full roller, bigger stronger stouter frame, and all the front components will just bolt right up to it! I can put the fuel tank in, run all SS brake lines, bascially have it ready to go and drop my body on it, adjust cab and bed mounts as neccessary.
New wheelbase is 172", mine is 168. so i will have to modify my rear box wheel arches. Theyre home made anyway so no big deal.
The frame will also be wired electricaly ready for the hitch, accessory lights, and my lift gate. Should be fun.
Bought some torches for 350 bucks with 3/4 full tanks. score!
#28
#29
#30