I have a trailer with dexter axles with 12X2 brakes. (I believe they are 6,200 pound axles???, they are on 10,000 pound registered trailer with upgraded axles)

I just spent 1700 dollars at camping world to replace loaded backing plates and new drums.

The brakes will not hold the trailer in place with the truck in gear at idle. They do not seem to have a clue as to the problem, I never left the dealership, It was pulled back into their shop and they have keep the trailer. I have not heard from them since (they are now closed)

The magnets have been check with an ohm meter, a fully charged auto battery has been connected directly to wire leading directly to the brakes (eliminating brake away switch, brake controller etc)Brakes have been adjusted up and still you can hardly feel the effect of fully applied brakes


I have two vehicles with brake controllers the trailer acts the same on both, I have two other trailers one vintage outlaw and the other a United (the united has dexter axles also) the brakes on those trailers work as they should on both vehicles

HELP

 

What truck and brake controllers are you using? There is not enough information here to answer your question. Ford built-in controller or after-market. If built-in, year of truck.

Since they have no clue as to the problem, why did they replace the parts you noted? When the break-away is pulled you can't feel the brakes? That is an electrical issue? How many amps are the brakes drawing when the break-away is pulled? If the amp draw is above 10 the brakes are out of adjustment.

Steve

 

Vehicle one is a 2007 f350 with the built in controller. Coltroler works perfect with my two other trailers, One 24 foot enclosed Vintage outlaw , and the second United 28 foot enclosed trailer.

Second vehicle with a controller is a American Dream 39 foot RV with air brakes. It has an electric over air control which also works with the two other trailers.

The parts were replaced because they called me up with a quoted stating that the parts were bad and need to be replaced. When I picked up the trailer and tested thet brakes before leaving the shop parking lot and found they did not work I was asked to back the trailer into the shop. My old parts were laying there on the floor and when I looked at them the drums were in very good condition and the shoes were more than 1/8 inch thick.

One of the backing plates and drums was contaminated with grease as a grease seal had poped off, but the rest were dry and still had the original paint showing. There were no rust lips in the drum, no pits (rust pockets), not grooves

It was odious that I had been sold a bill of goods on parts, and there was no real argument for the shop foreman abut that and he is going to discuss this with the manager of the store.

A freshly charged automotive battery was connected to the wires to the brakes , bypassing all breakaway switches, controllers, etc and the brakes still did not work.

An old style induction amp gauge was used to check current draw and read 2 amps. This seems low to me.

 

Not saying the parts were not necessary. Just wanted to establish they were as those parts are commonly changed and then it is taken for granted all is well.

A 2 amp draw indicates the connections are a problem and were either not correctly done when the new parts were installed or were problematic from the get-go. Your problem is in the wiring, but that should have been checked before you ever hitched up. If the facility really has not idea why the brakes are not working with only a 2 amp draw, there really is a problem with the tech doing the work! I am guessing the wiring to everything after the first magnet is not connected.

My two cents worth,

Steve

 

I agree, not enough energy is getting to all the brakes for them to engage.

You have at least rules out anything truck side since they are using a battery and it has the issue.

 

I believe you are correct, and now starts the struggle to make them make it right.

 

The last trailer I bought had been sitting for several years, and had not been moved since its last trip in the snow and salt. The brake mechanisms were all corroded to the point they were frozen. I had all four assemblies (backing plates and all) replaced by a shop for about $500. They tested the system post install, then tested it in the lot with my truck before they would let me leave.

If I were you, I would find another shop.

 

Called the service Saturday morning and left phone message, called again an hour later and got the "service dispatcher"

Was told the trailer had been completed Friday and was sorry I had not been called.

Asked who was the General Manager of that dealership was told it was Dillon Miller. Told him (service dispatcher)that he should talk with him and give him his side of the story as I wanted to talk with him and that I was leaving the house now and would be there in 45 minutes to pick the trailer up.

Called the service writer back up and got Tyler and told him the same thing.

Arrived and it seemed like no one had talked with Dillon and it turned out he was the sales manager.

He said there was nothing he could do, did ask me to sit with him and tell him the story, which I did.

Asked him to track down the service dispatcher, which he did, reviewed with the service dispatcher what had been going on. He basically supported my story, but was defending the shop saying he was not a mechanic and had to rely on his mechanics for advise.

Requested that he have one of his mechanics to examine the drums and explain what was wrong with them.

He said the mechanic that worked on the trailer was not there, and I request he get any mechanic to look at the drums.

He did that, the mechanic (mechanic assigned to chassis work) looked at the drums and read the max diameter off the outer edge (12.060) Pulled out a tape measure and said they were about 12. He fell right into my hands (I used to own a brake shop and had a drum gauge with me)

See below



He remeasured with the drum gauge 11.560. He then stated the drums were in good condition with no need for replacement.

So the Service dispatcher, and the Sales Manager now both are in agreement that neither the drums or the backing plates needed to be replaced.

However the only person that can make an adjustment is "Tim" the service manager who is not in. Both Pedro (service dispatcher) and Dillon have told me they will talk with Tim the service manager on Monday

Oh yes......

The original from the factory scotch lock wire connectors were removed from the wiring on the axle and butt connectors installed and the brakes now work.

I will remove the butt connectors, solder and heat shrink those connections.

Brakes now draw 3.5 amps

Quite a fight to get CW to start to do the right thing.

The fight to get them to do the right thing now is still not over, in my opinion I should be refunded the cost of the drums, the backing plates, and the bearings and a bunch of labor, basically I should pay for the labor and parts to redo the electrical connection on the brakes as that was what the problem was for the first place.

One more thing Pedro (the service dispatcher) is really the only person so far that has tried to own this problem, he was not the original "dispatcher" on this job, he is second shift).

He has not walked away and said he was just doing his job, but it was someone else's responsibility.

 

I guess I have posted this thought more than one time in this forum, but will say it again. If you RV, find someone you like who will learn your rig and do quality work. No technician can always be right, but every technician can always be honest. When you go to a large facility that runs flat out day in and day out trying to push work through, you are going to run into problems.

Steve

 

I disagree with you. I don't think you should have to pay anything!

The diagnosis of the electrical braking system in RV towables is so basic not being able to do it or skipping it is laughable. How long does it take to pull the break-away and put a clamp meter on the feed from the break-away?That is a 15 minutes diagnosis and a failing to do it is careless. A smart service manager would write the whole thing off as good will. I know I would if it were my mistake. Let's say at most flat rate hour for the diagnosis and fix. I would care more about keeping you as a customer than an hour's worth of time.

My rant,

Steve

 

I agree, but that is not how it works in real world. I have not heard back now from anyone, and suspect it will take a push to get anything.

NY is bad for a lot of reasons, but they do have a vehicle safety inspection unit that looks into these types of things.

This wasn't just a mistake this was a person that did not have a cue that just through all the parts he could think of at the problem hopping it would be solved.

 

That is how it works in my real world.

The problem with Camping World today is it is nothing like the Camping World of old. Right now their shortage of trained technicians is horrendous and only getting worse as they hold the pedal to the metal in order to expand. As an aside, Camping World buys 80% of all of the model lines produced by Thor's family of manufacturers. They are huge and profit driven.

Since they have so many "technicians" in name only, the single skill set they have at their disposal is to keep replacing parts until you either get lucky or the customer gives up (and a lot of customers simply give up). It comes down to how long do you tie up your unit while someone learns on it?


Steve

 

I'm not being snooty but would like to joint your world.

I still have not heard back from them and have place a call and left message, suggestions on how to get them to do the right thing?

 

I never thought you were being snooty.

Here is where you are stuck and they know it, as do you. They can outlast you. I would be thinking about going over their heads. Just make sure to document everything and then see if you can get to the store manager rather than a department manager. If necessary and you regard the sum as worth the effort, I would even consider sending a registered letter with a signed receipt of delivery. So far it is a bit early to assume they intend to do nothing, although I am sure they would like to ignore this situation.

Then I would just keeping moving up the chain of command. In the past I have had success writing company headquarters, CEOs, and so forth. The average customer will just give up and they know that so you have to make it clear you are not going to walk away. Do not threaten legal action as that will bring everything to a halt. You also can advise them you are considering filing a complaint with the better business bureau, but would prefer not to do so.

Good luck,

Steve

 

Thought I would post some pictures of the backing plates and drums, I have been offered a refund on the drums and backing plates,

I have cleaned up the backing plates and put a coat of paint on them, drums are as they were except they have been sitting out in the rain.

There is also a picture of the wiring that was pulled out.
















I have now received a call back from the service manager, he wanted to refund the cost of the drums, I told him I did not think that was appropriate, I thought he should refund the entire bill and then charge me what it would have cost to replace the breakaway switch and replace the bad wiring.

He said the best he would do is refund the drums and backing plates, that means I would be paying 1000 dollars to fix the problem of the break away switch and wiring.

The connection was broken and now I cannot connect to Camping Workd in Churchville NY