rear brake issues
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New User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 2
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From: N. California
rear brake issues
Greetings All
Newbie here with a rear brake issue on my newly acquired 87 F250 XLT 7.5
Rebuilt the rears, engine etc but upon driving it home from the shop my RABS and Ebrake light came on and I felt a considerable drag on the brakes after that. After siting for a few days this away
This unit had an older trailer brake that is tapped into the MC. I suspect we have some kind of blockage somehere or a proportioning valve failure.
I cooked my shoes and drums yesterday during a test drive...anyone else have this kind of thing happen?
Driving us nuts
Newbie here with a rear brake issue on my newly acquired 87 F250 XLT 7.5
Rebuilt the rears, engine etc but upon driving it home from the shop my RABS and Ebrake light came on and I felt a considerable drag on the brakes after that. After siting for a few days this away
This unit had an older trailer brake that is tapped into the MC. I suspect we have some kind of blockage somehere or a proportioning valve failure.
I cooked my shoes and drums yesterday during a test drive...anyone else have this kind of thing happen?
Driving us nuts
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Welcome to the forum Shmell! 
I think Tom is right about sticky E brake cables, but that shouldn't throw a light.
The VSS in the top of the pumpkin is what sets off the RABS, but if both lights are on it is likely the fluid level sensor in the master cylinder reservoir.
Check that the float is free and the three wire connector on the side is not corroded and plugged in all the way.
I think Tom is right about sticky E brake cables, but that shouldn't throw a light.
The VSS in the top of the pumpkin is what sets off the RABS, but if both lights are on it is likely the fluid level sensor in the master cylinder reservoir.
Check that the float is free and the three wire connector on the side is not corroded and plugged in all the way.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,448
Likes: 5,517
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
if the P-brake cable are sticky/siezed, and the spring is broken/rotted out on the pedal assembly, it will throw a p-brake light.
mine has been on for close to 14 years now.
the pedal spring is slightly stretched, and with no cables if i do not tie up the pedal the light stays on.
mine has been on for close to 14 years now.
the pedal spring is slightly stretched, and with no cables if i do not tie up the pedal the light stays on.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I've never had that, but I certainly believe you.
The only thing that has ever set off both lights at the same time for me is that plug on the M/C.
I guess it's just one more thing to check if the pedal stop switch is found to be functional.
The only thing that has ever set off both lights at the same time for me is that plug on the M/C.
I guess it's just one more thing to check if the pedal stop switch is found to be functional.
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New User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 2
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From: N. California
rear brake issues
Thanks for the advice guys.
P Brake spring was rusted and busted....replaced both and bypassed the ABS and she seems to be running fine....now its time to swap the carb and call it done
P Brake spring was rusted and busted....replaced both and bypassed the ABS and she seems to be running fine....now its time to swap the carb and call it done
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