Alright ladies and gentlemen, I am as stuck as can be rite now. I have a 390 in my 72 that I just went from the old cast iron manifold and 2 barrel carb to a performer series manifold (2105) 4 barrel (1405) with throttle linkage (1483) all edelbrock. But anyways I get her all thrown back together and oh so very excited to fire her up and take for a spin......but she just cranks and cranks and cranks but no spark to fire her up. Got the voltmeter out and checked the ignition coil, distributor plugs and even to the tip of spark plug, all of which are getting 12v! Pressed spark plug to block, turned ignition and no spark on ground. Everything is connected and put together how I found it. Any help and or suggestions will be greatly appreciated!! Thank you for whoever took the time to read! Even tried turning alternator while cranking to change teeth, also took it out and readjusted. Went TDC and tried that, even changed plugs to fire on #1. Heeeeeelp pleeeeeeease!!!

Dylan.

 

Sounds like the distributor is in the wrong spot, since you had to pull it to install the intake.

How did you locate TDC #1? Did you set it that way before you pulled it apart(the easy way to do it). Confirming how you did it will help determine how close it is now.

 

AH. Hellooo? Must of remembered to put the rotor back in.

 

Initially tearing it apart I did not have it at TDC. We eventually located TDC by pulling #1 spark plug and quickly turning ignition until we felt compression from #1. Thank you for replying!! But rotor for distributor?

 

No Rotor...spark plugs No see-um spark. But I was really only kidding since you hadn't answered post above after a while . Tons of folks find their OOPS and never let us know what happened.

 

Coil hot+side should have 7-9+volt when remove from coil terminal key on.
Check points are opening 0.17 and plug 0.34

If standing in front of radiator looking at the engine #1 is on your left front.
Put thumb over spark hole crank engine until at top of compression stroke.

Then Turn crank with a wrench to get it on TDC the rotor should be pointing at #1 spark plug wire on cap. If not pull dizzy and reset to just before #1 as it may drop one tooth off you may have turn dizzy to correct the timing. If you can't get to #1 then pull dizzy again until to get it pointing at # 1 on dizzy cap..
Orich

 

If you were spinning the motor fast, by the time you felt the compression stroke you probably stopped and lined up TDC 180 degrees out. If you don't have remote start switch then just have someone "bump" the key and put your thumb over (not in) the #1 plug hole. When you feel compression then back up the damper to line up with TDC by doing what Orich suggested above. If you can't get the dizzy to drop when you put it in, lightly tighten hold down clamp and gently rock the fan blade back and forth and it will usually fall, then line back up to TDC and see where you are with the rotor...

 

The distributor timing has nothing to do with the no spark situation. It will gladly fire at the wrong time if it's not installed correctly.

Just checking the coil for voltage isn't enough. Use a dwell meter and crank the engine over to be sure the points are working. Or as others have suggested at least check the gap on the points.

 

2X Turbo. You need power to the coil (under "start" power comes from the starter solenoid),a trigger to tell the coil to fire (points correct),and ground. In theory it must be related to the recent work done. Look for something you accidentally missed. Ground wire,both condensor and Dizzy primary wire connected to points, leads hooked to coil correctly,etc. Is there anything odd you haven't mentioned? Like someone put an external ballast resistor in line to the coil. Someone messed with the starter solenoid. Wiring have "butt connectors" in line may have come loose. ETC.

 

To add to your problems check this.
I Hope you verified that your oil pump drive rod did not drop into the pan like what happens to about 15% of guys doing a intake manifold swap.
They don't know enough to check for things like that.

Or put the dizzy in while reinstallation of the intake manifold for it's proper dizzy alignment.
So if you have a manual oil pressure gauge watch it close while cranking over the motor or as soon as it starts to see if you've got any oil pressure, if none then the oil pump drive rod is laying in the pan bent.

Then you'll have to change your game plan to get it now back on the road..

For more information on this oil pump rod see your manual.

Orich

 

I've been lucky, so far, and haven't had the oil pump drive shaft drop when removing my distributors. Wouldn't the distributor turn anyway, even if the oil pump drive shaft had dropped? I mean, the distributor drive gear drives off the camshaft.
You could check to see if the distributor shaft is turning though by removing the distributor cap and "bumping" the starter. Watch the rotor to see if it moves. No need to actually crank the engine all the way over.

 

You are right Cruzer. Orich was just warning him of what might have happened. Better to check for oil pressure upon start-up than to a little later wipe out the bearings and OP wonder why.

 

Due to the way the distributor was pulled was thinking it might be firing but at wrong time therefore no run. The ole ground a plug to the block doesn't make me feel warm and fuzzy.

 

Orich, I'm sorry. I just went back and read your post again and realise that you meant that he better make sure the oil pump shaft is still in place before firing up the engine.

Distributor plugs? Does this engine still have points or has it been converted to electronic ignition?

 

- Orich, Did not know Dizzy was the distributor...had to google that lol. I will check the points and plug gaps. I did not check for oil pump drive rod, didn't even know about that and didnt pay attention to oil pressure gauge (did have an aftermarket one but cant remember if it was working properly before installation, only had truck for a few weeks). Also no gauge and honestly the oil pump drive rod makes sense... I've never torn this far into a motor and while reinstalling push rods I noticed one of them was out of its sleeve and had to get in through distributor hole and push rod hole with a long magnent... made this mistake so the oil pump rod sounds reasonable...

- FECruzer, I am not too sure about the points or electronic ignition, explain please?

- Yeti I got TDC by bumping motor while buddy had finger over hole then afterwards with a flashlight, visually confirming TDC by seeing Piston, but I will try to be more percise by turning crank also.

-Turbo, what is a Dwell meter?

Jeffaffa, what is an external ballast resistor? Also I did check all connections to and from coil (had pictures to verify everything) I did not check the starter solenoid ( I didnt even mess with it but was leaning around that area while wrenching under the hood.) Also I dont think I had butt connectors but will check again for all connections and such!!

Sorry for late replies everyone, I do appreciate your time! Just been busy at work and helping buddy do a D60 swap on his truck after work so by the time I get home I go straight to sleep. Also I do not know if this matters or not, but the Tach I installed before the swap would jump while trying to turnover but now it doesnt even try...