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The one one the right. This is my 78 F150. It is 4wd. The bar goes from the front axle (left) to this bushing on the right and mounts to the frame. Its worn out and I need a new one. I just don't know what its called. Also, anyone know where to get new hoses that go from the filler neck to the gas tank?
Have fun changing that radius arm bushing...either un-bolt (at least its not riveted like normal) the frame bracket or do the "pull it out a bit" trick. CAUTION----NOT a trick for the novice mechanic.
.... as an example, scroll down to the 14 piece set .... best way to buy. There are other companies, you can get in blue, black, or red ..... I installed red in mine in 1986, still in solid shape 28 years later.
As to the radius arm bushings .... included .... I used a come along and pulled but if I did it today, I'ld unbolt the brackets at the frame to install.
If stock height, go with 2 or 3 degrees max. They increase caster and will help driving. Below is a drawing I whipped out to show a guy about 7 degree bushings and higher trucks, but the 2 or 3 degree bushings work same, just "less".
Wow, that 14 piece kit is inexpensive. I ordered the radius arm bushings, polyurethane, the brand shares the name of a synthesizer manufacturer that was really popular in the 70's. That's the brand I typically get for my suspension parts. Got them for $25 online. About half what they'd cost me at the parts stores. I was going to cheap out and not get rest of the bushings as they appear to be fine. That and I'm typically only using the truck around my farm. It sees less than 5000 miles per year. However seeing the price for the 14 piece kit I may just go ahead and go for it. The only other issue I really have with the truck is it seems to not have a lot of torque. It has the 351M engine and eventually I'd like to beef it up some. However the performance parts for this engine don't come cheap. Something for the future maybe.
Just got done with the filler neck hoses. Getting ready to do the radius arm bushings.
Yeah I had thought about the timing. I've been at work all weekend but now I'm off till Saturday. I'll probably check the timing today. If its out I'll adjust it. If it wanders then I'll do the timing kit. I have two holley carbs in the garage in pretty good shape. bot are 4 bbl and one is a 650 while the other is an 850. I think the 650 is the way to go so long as there is a compatible intake available.
The radius arm bushings are simple. Anybody can do them. The 4x4's have bolt on brackets that can easily be removed to service the bushings. The 2wd trucks are riveted on and a bear to change.
Look at the brackets when you have them off. There's supposed to be a 3/8" thick ring welded to the bracket around the hole. If the ring isn't there, you need to get a new bracket. That's what allows the radius arm to pivot in the hole. Also look to make sure the hole is still round. If it's egg shaped, you need a new bracket.
Hey Bill, mine is a 78. I looked up the vin at some point and am pretty sure it is a 351m and not the 400m. I just finished the radius arm bushings. Yes the 3/8 rings were there. One fell to the floor but neither were egg shaped. I went ahead and used a comealong to the front bumper. This is a farm truck with rusty bumpers so I'm not worried about an extra scratch or two. You're right this was an easy fix. While I was under there it appears the "bushings" that sandwich the front axle from the radius arms are pretty tired. I may go ahead and get a set of those now that I've inspected them well. At least its not pulling to the left when I left off the accelerator now and no big clunk clunk clunk. BTW, where are the timing marks on this block. Valve cover states set to 14 btdc.
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