BD diesel turbo timer short review
#17
I'll be leaving to activate by time.
Only problem is, mine does not work. Call to BD support and with an email proof of purchase they should be sending another one out.
#18
Just installed mine, fairly straight forward. I am not a fan of any type of connector that pierces the insulation, so all my connections are soldered.
I'll be leaving to activate by time.
Only problem is, mine does not work. Call to BD support and with an email proof of purchase they should be sending another one out.
The PDF file you linked to in your first post has the wiring info for the 2011+ Super Duty's.
I'll be leaving to activate by time.
Only problem is, mine does not work. Call to BD support and with an email proof of purchase they should be sending another one out.
The PDF file you linked to in your first post has the wiring info for the 2011+ Super Duty's.
did you check to see that the little pins had the correct positioning internally? also its best that you leave it for time i just hooked the one i have up to the egt gauge i have already installed and the problem is when its 60 degrees out like this morning it shut off at 320 but two days ago it was 90 degrees outside and i went into the store came back outside after around 10 minutes and the truck was still running so ill leave change it for time until winter
#20
#21
So, within 10 minutes of talking with BD I figured out my issue. I opted to use timed programming, not going to bother with temp sensors.
If you look at the picture in the book with regards to the jumper and how the circuit board is actually laid out, the jumper orientation is reversed.
A closer look at the circuit board numbering showed I jumped the wrong two pins.
Corrected the timer works as advertised.
I played around with POT adjustment and after several attempts got it to do a 2.5 minute cool down run.
A nice feature is that the circuit that is "keep alive" also keeps some of the accessories alive, such as the AC and power windows.
Plug and play would be nice, but this is as involved as the high idle. So if you can do that, this is cake.
I elected to solder, I do not like insulation displacement connectors.
3M double stick tape to the module under the dash. The placement allows access to the adjustment POT with popping the knee trim panel off.
I also went a step further and added a on/off switch. I like having the cool down feature, but there will be times I just don't need it.
If you look at the picture in the book with regards to the jumper and how the circuit board is actually laid out, the jumper orientation is reversed.
A closer look at the circuit board numbering showed I jumped the wrong two pins.
Corrected the timer works as advertised.
I played around with POT adjustment and after several attempts got it to do a 2.5 minute cool down run.
A nice feature is that the circuit that is "keep alive" also keeps some of the accessories alive, such as the AC and power windows.
Plug and play would be nice, but this is as involved as the high idle. So if you can do that, this is cake.
I elected to solder, I do not like insulation displacement connectors.
3M double stick tape to the module under the dash. The placement allows access to the adjustment POT with popping the knee trim panel off.
I also went a step further and added a on/off switch. I like having the cool down feature, but there will be times I just don't need it.
#24
In case anyone is interested.
5 wires to install, ground, brake pedal feed and 3 wires in the column.
I 3M taped the module under the dash and added an on off switch to the small panel at the left side 12 volt socket.
Not real easy to see in the first picture. The 6.7 connector you tap into is right behind the steering wheel. The green, tan and pink wires are the 3 from the timer.
5 wires to install, ground, brake pedal feed and 3 wires in the column.
I 3M taped the module under the dash and added an on off switch to the small panel at the left side 12 volt socket.
Not real easy to see in the first picture. The 6.7 connector you tap into is right behind the steering wheel. The green, tan and pink wires are the 3 from the timer.
#26
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: North Central Washington
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#27
Top right - compressor solenoid. The compressor is mainly controlled by the #4 upfitter. But I wanted the ability to run it at anytime if needed.
Bottom right - front and rear LED strobes
Bottom left - on - off switch for air horns. Air horns are tied into the the truck's horn circuit. This way I can control when they activate.
#29
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: North Central Washington
Posts: 18,015
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