A/c question
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A/c question
Okay so one of my dads friends who owns a shop just recharged my A/C system, I've done a R-134a conversion (the cheap little fittings from autozone) that way we could use well R-134a, last year we charged it up but the accumulator collapsed and the old compressor took a dive and locked up. Drove it like that for ten miles and never noticed until i got to where I was going (big opps). So anyways I swapped both of them out and put the whole damn system back together and got him to vacuum it all down and put R-134a in the truck and all that mess and it blows fairly cold, not as cold as the little car that I drive to work most the time or dads truck but cold enough to keep me happy during the evil summers, but I've noticed that when its on the compressor never cycles, Its always running never kicking on and off. I have a new pressure switch on the accumulator and I know it has a screw to adjust it so I'm wondering if I should back it down a little that way it does cycle, or is that even needed? I'm really wondering cause I really don't want a repeat of last year especially with brand new parts. Thanks in advance, Shadow.
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Don't have a set at home, I have a little can of refrigerant that has the cold side gauge but that's it and I won't have access to a set I can borrow until Friday of next week. Temp wise I think its around 60 degrees out the vents on max everything and the rpm's held around 2 grand at a stand still. Is it gonna hurt it to be a little overcharged? Cause if so i could try and talk to him and see if he or even I could fix this when ever we can. Gotta get wisdom teeth out next week that's why i can't get to a set until Friday cause I'm gonna be out of it and I'm not paying 60 dollars for a set I might use two times a year. Might see if i can rent a set to give you the pressures if its a big enough issue to need to correct immediately.
Fleet Owner
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From: Kentucky
Until you get some gauges on it you can only speculate. But I will tell you 60 degree vent temperature is way too high IMHO.
Sorry to throw doom and gloom on your misery but this is a classic example why I dislike the cheap and dirty R134A "conversions".
Sorry to throw doom and gloom on your misery but this is a classic example why I dislike the cheap and dirty R134A "conversions".
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Don't hold it to me thats just how i feel it when its idling. now when I took the trash up the road today and used the a/c the truck got darn cold darn quick and felt really good the whole way down the road. But I still plan to get a hold of some gauges and check the pressures. Might of been cheaply done but so far its cost me an arm and a leg to get it to this point so there is no turning back now.
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Fleet Mechanic
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Okay so one of my dads friends who owns a shop just recharged my A/C system, I've done a R-134a conversion (the cheap little fittings from autozone) that way we could use well R-134a, last year we charged it up but the accumulator collapsed and the old compressor took a dive and locked up. Drove it like that for ten miles and never noticed until i got to where I was going (big opps). So anyways I swapped both of them out and put the whole damn system back together and got him to vacuum it all down and put R-134a in the truck and all that mess and it blows fairly cold, not as cold as the little car that I drive to work most the time or dads truck but cold enough to keep me happy during the evil summers, but I've noticed that when its on the compressor never cycles, Its always running never kicking on and off. I have a new pressure switch on the accumulator and I know it has a screw to adjust it so I'm wondering if I should back it down a little that way it does cycle, or is that even needed? I'm really wondering cause I really don't want a repeat of last year especially with brand new parts. Thanks in advance, Shadow.
What other components (orifice tube, etc) were changed out when the system imploded? (May have debris, "shrapnel", etc) in places most didn't think they had places...........
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Not sure of your application / what's been done under the hood, but most applications have a A/C Cycling Switch ---normally on the side of the suction accumulator -when pressure inside the accumulator drops the contacts close and the A/C clutch field coil is energized, compressor runs.................opposite (contacts close) the clutch field coil is de-engerzied and compressor operations stop................
What other components (orifice tube, etc) were changed out when the system imploded? (May have debris, "shrapnel", etc) in places most didn't think they had places...........
What other components (orifice tube, etc) were changed out when the system imploded? (May have debris, "shrapnel", etc) in places most didn't think they had places...........
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