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Hell yeah it does, just had to spring for a 12" adjustable drop on mine. Got tired of swapping ***** around for different trailers, tongue heights, all that stuff. Believe the brand I went with was T-Maxx, 12" of adjustability in 1" increments and the ball mount can be flipped to run dual *****. Something like $185 sans hitch *****.
That's a big drop. I picked up an Anderson Manufacturing 6" drop hitch. Its shiny aluminum, very blingy. It was the only thing around where I live and I needed it to tow hay yesterday. Most of the ordinary drop hitches I looked at only had a 5000lb rating.
Watch, I'll get new tires and my $200 Anderson investment will be useless!
Lol, they won't lift it THAT much more. Well, yeah they will heh. Hitch I've got has a 10k rating, seems to be working well at that so far. Not willing to explore the limits of grip for those welds though.
I gotta ask though, with regards to the quote below....
....what do you mean when you state "all the wiring?" All I can think of that would be there would be the two harness plugs for the fog lights.
If you click on each link in the quote, it will take you to the thread where the post is located.
Mec liked the posts, so he quoted them and added them to his signature.
Stewart
Stewart, thanks for the clarification on Mec's email signature.
For the bumper, I looked around under underneath and could not see where the fog light wiring began or ended. I also have the engine heater wiring snaked all through things. It just looked tight and messy behind the bumper and more trouble than it was worth.
I evaluated what would be involved in removing the bumper vs. removing the "y-shaped" bumper braces on each side and the braces won. I had those out in a minute or two and the front spring bolts were quite accessible at that stage. The condenser brackets have to come off to get the spring bolts out no matter which approach you take. I was able to work on everything perfectly easily while leaving the bumper in place.
Also, I was doing all this work by myself and really didn't want to drop or damage the bumper. My wife has a pretty bad back and I didn't have the heart to ask her to help.
Lol, they won't lift it THAT much more. Well, yeah they will heh. Hitch I've got has a 10k rating, seems to be working well at that so far. Not willing to explore the limits of grip for those welds though.
Agreed! The drop hitch I got is all aluminum, very nicely done, no welds that I can see so it was either done from one piece of aluminum or someone is very, very good at welding and polishing.
It was actually quite difficult to find a drop hitch rated over 10k lbs. I was a bit surprised since the super duties will tow more than that but I figured I'd probably never tow over 10k anyway.
I also figured out that I can buy just the 10" drop part if the 6" drop part isn't enough, so at least I don't have to buy a whole new setup, just half of it.
For the bumper, I looked around under underneath and could not see where the fog light wiring began or ended. I also have the engine heater wiring snaked all through things. It just looked tight and messy behind the bumper and more trouble than it was worth.
And here I thought you had a bunch of aftermarket stuff in there that you hadn't shared with us yet.
The fogs should just unplug at the base of the light.
I evaluated what would be involved in removing the bumper vs. removing the "y-shaped" bumper braces on each side and the braces won. I had those out in a minute or two and the front spring bolts were quite accessible at that stage.
That's good it was easily done. Anything that makes a job go smooth is a plus!
X looks great. Nice documentary you did. It will help me when I get ready to do mine. Mama gave me the green light to start buying the stuff.
Good luck! I did tons of research and went through the whole process by myself. I even did the front twice. The front was too low with the Vs and the 2" lift shackles so I took the front apart again and added the skyjacker add a leafs.
Just a quick update that might help out others tackling this project. After lifting the front with V's, 2" lift shackles, and Skyjacker add-a-leafs, the front axle was off center by 1/2" to 1". A Zone Offroad adjustable track bar fixed it quickly and easily and inexpensively.
Adjusting the steering wheel back to center was surprisingly easy too! About 4-6 turns on the steering linkage (to make the bar longer) and good to go!
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