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That's right on target if the engine is in park/out of gear, at idle without any major loading. If you measured that in gear completely loaded down, I'd be concerned.
Have stock 1973 F250, 390/C6, except the voltage regulator is a solid state electronic type, rather than the original mechanical type.
What is the correct charging voltage measured at the battery terminals.
Measuring 14.4 volts, seems a bit high.
I put a newer style electronic VR (like is OE for a mid '80s F-150) in my '77 back in the late '80s when I was having some charging issues. It came from NAPA so I feel like it's likely a Echlin? I checked it not long ago with a digital volt meter, charges at 14.2-14.3 volts steady off the still original 60 amp alternator.
The battery in my '77 is now over 11 years old, it's a NAPA "Legend 75". It's doing quite well I think.
Charging voltage of 14.4 volts was measured at idle with C6 in park position with no electrical loads, except the ignition coil.
Sounds great to me .....
You know that Advance Auto Parts (maybe others too?) will do an "on vehicle test" that will test battery, starter, and charging system unloaded and loaded, as well as at idle and at over 1500 rpms using high beams and heater motor for load .... and it will show if there's any excessive ripple from the rectifier too .... and it's FREE.
Saw video on U-Tube addressing the various methods to test the charging system.
The most advanged method was using a "Snap On" instrument that meaured the ripple in the alternator output.
Using a volt meter to check output voltage and currently output with load on the alternator using heater wire reistance or stack carbon discs is not the entire story.
It also checks for a blown diode in the alternator were the battery discharges through the alternator with the engine not running.