I see. As long as it runs smoothly, I don't mind what it sounds like!
I just got back from the shop - we did two CCTs. The first showed #8 and the second showed #8 & #3. I think I'll try replacing just #8 to start with, and see how it runs.
If I could afford it, I'd do all 8!

 

Ordered the injector from Riffraff yesterday - hope this fixes it!

 

I hope so too. Before you return the core, drive it around a bit (after working the air out the first 50 miles) - make sure you really nailed it. If there is no change, you can use some fresh O-rings on that old #8 and try again with another cylinder.

 

Good idea. So the long lead #8 still fits in the other locations?
I'm new to this...

 

The deed is done

Followed the guide from Riffraff, and everything went smoothly. I cranked it quite a bit to help bleed the air out of the oil system, and then it started after about 20 seconds of cranking when I reconnected the wires.
It definitely runs smoother than before, but is still a little rough. I'm expecting that will clear up after some "spirited driving".
It seems to have more power now too.
I cleaned the EBP sensor & tube while I was waiting for the batteries to charge between cranks. Hopefully that'll help my mileage a little.

Thanks everyone for the input and advice!

Old injector:


The tip was crusty

 

Congratulations on your first valve cover dive! I'm sure the oil will sort itself out and you'll be pleased with full stock power.

 

It's actually the second time - I replaced the glow plugs last winter in hopes that it would start better cold. But this was definitely a more involved project.
I'm planning to do another contribution test soon to see if #3 shows up again (And hopefully #8 won't!).

Thanks for all the help and encouragement!

 

The tip was crusty




Sorry if this is off topic and don't mean to hijack the thread but what causes the carbon build-up on the tip of the injector and what can be done to remove it. The reason I ask is I just replaced my #6 injector and re-oringed #8 and both of the nozzles looked like that but had more of a build up around the tip where the orifices are which in my mind is not letting the fuel mist like it should.

 

I'm guessing a rich mix can do it - maybe low ICP, maybe not enough air, maybe an O-ring leak, low compression, lugging, fuel quality, etc....

 

Bringing this up again - I'm still having some running issues.
First off, it's running a LOT better than before. But still not where it should be. I'm getting no codes, but occasionally at idle I will notice a slight shake. Also, at higher RPMs there is a bit of vibration which can be felt through the shift lever and 4WD lever (whether the truck is moving or not).
After replacing the injector, I also eliminated the quick disconnects in the fuel line before the pump and I installed a Riffraff FRx. I put in the second level fuel pressure spring and am getting about 60 psi at idle and it will drop to about 50 psi when I'm making black smoke. My fuel pressure sender is after the fuel bowl.
The strange thing is the the shake is intermittent, but not temperature related. Sometimes when I start the truck cold it will idle perfect and seem normal. Then other times after driving somewhere (enough to get everything up to temp) and I shut it off and restart it will have the shake back. But other days I will try to start it cold and it will start a little harder than normal and give me some white smoke for a few minutes. I haven't been able to find a pattern to it at all.

So I took it to a mechanic and got some readings off his scanner. I know basically nothing about scanners and what any of this info means, but after seeing the PERDELs graphs I knew something must not be right. I'm hoping someone can explain what this all means to me. Please start basic - I don't even know what PERDEL means!

Thanks!

 

You can do a search and find a lot of info on Perdel readings on this site but basically perdel is a representation of crankshaft velocity change at the time the cylinder is firing. Ideal number is zero. Your numbers look OK. A cylinder reading +3% is usually considered suspect with the exception of #8. It reads higher because of it's firing order and the type of CPS you are using.

As previously mentioned, your "Refurb" injectors are suspect here.

Since you don't have a scanner the next best thing is an App called Torque Pro. Which allows you to monitor your truck's vitals in real time. You may be able to pin point an issue by monitoring with this app when the truck starts idling rough etc....

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nd-phones.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-for-7-3l.html


You can help your cold start issue by plugging it in and/or using 5w40 synthetic oil.

 

Remember no. 8 always holds the air in the head. If you have a leak on the return side of the fuel bowl you can be getting air into number 8 and getting that crackling noise. FiffRaff has the air elemination kit which I think I was going to get. I had all kinds of fuel leaks in the fuel bowl because the seals were not meant to run on ULSD. Now thanks to diesel o-rings.com I got the whole fuel bowl sealed and even upgraded the fuel heater, that crackling from number 8 I have not heard in over a month.

 

Snknby - thanks for the explanation. I guess I really ought to do the rest of the injectors if I don't want to keep having issues. Do you know where I can get a good CPS?
If I had a smart fone or tablet I'd get Torque Pro. Do they make a version for laptops?

David - I do have Riffraff's air elimination kit (FRx). It didn't solve my rough running. Maybe I should do the o-rings as well?

Thanks for the input.

 

Torque Pro should work on a Windows laptop with Blue Stacks installed. It's an inexpensive experiment, you can try it out.

Riffraff Diesel has a good CPS you can install... that should bring the PERDELs down a bit.

As for the rest... I would do a full-blown Hutch/Harpoon mod before replacing injectors with the PERDELs I see. It's very likely you are getting air in your fuel, and the mod does help.

 

Okay, I'll try to get a hold of a Windoze laptop. Any OBD2 to USB adapter should work?

I'll save my pennies for a CPS.
I do have Riffraff's FRx installed, which I thought was supposed to get rid of the air problem? Before I installed it, I PM'd Dan (kwik) about his setup and I saw his pictures of his in-tank pump. I would liked to do the same, but I haven't been able to find a submersible pump that's not terribly expensive.

Thanks for the help!