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Fake overheating 2000 V10

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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 08:56 AM
  #16  
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Bigpipes 35
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I have to agree with Brent on this one only because he had the exact same symptoms, Replace the stat with a Motorcraft stat and I am pretty sure that will solve your problems...
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 09:11 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Berriemaas
OK guys,

Thank you all for the tips and insight.

Today I had to drive home with the truck, about 140 miles. .............................. I pulled over, let the engine run, checked under the hood again, no elevated temps, so I took the gamble and just drove it home with the gauge pegged red for 50 miles. Truck ran fine the whole way. So I'll go and replace the temp sensor this week and let you know.
Berrie
Originally Posted by Bigpipes 35
I have to agree with Brent on this one only because he had the exact same symptoms, Replace the stat with a Motorcraft stat and I am pretty sure that will solve your problems...
Sorry fellas... But if that thermostat was stuck shut for 50 miles, I feel certain that truck would have nuked itself....
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 09:54 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Big-Foot

Sorry fellas... But if that thermostat was stuck shut for 50 miles, I feel certain that truck would have nuked itself....
That is certainly true. The fact that it showed normal after you restarted it indicates to me that you have an electrical issue with the sensor. I would start by testing the sensor and the associated wiring.

An easy check would be to monitor the temperature from the OBD port with a Scangauge or other type of scan tool. When the gauge pegs high what temp is the PCM seeing? How fast does it get there?
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 10:19 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Big-Foot
Sorry fellas... But if that thermostat was stuck shut for 50 miles, I feel certain that truck would have nuked itself....
Nobody said it was stuck shut.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 10:22 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Tom
That is certainly true. The fact that it showed normal after you restarted it indicates to me that you have an electrical issue with the sensor. I would start by testing the sensor and the associated wiring.

An easy check would be to monitor the temperature from the OBD port with a Scangauge or other type of scan tool. When the gauge pegs high what temp is the PCM seeing? How fast does it get there?
Tom, I can see you never had this problem, it's not all cut an dry with the failsafe, he needs to change the thermo and cap.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 10:40 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by EXv10
Tom, I can see you never had this problem, it's not all cut an dry with the failsafe, he needs to change the thermo and cap.
I get that his symptoms are similar to yours, but have you honestly never heard of an electrical short in the sensor or wiring causing a fake overheating condition?

Replacing the thermostat isn't expensive and may help, but it might not fix the problem. If in doubt I'd spend the $10 and do it anyway.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 11:15 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Tom
I get that his symptoms are similar to yours, but have you honestly never heard of an electrical short in the sensor or wiring causing a fake overheating condition?

Replacing the thermostat isn't expensive and may help, but it might not fix the problem. If in doubt I'd spend the $10 and do it anyway.
If someone had the same problem as me and it was an easy fix I would do what he did.......it's a no-brainer. I think that sensor is under the intake manifold, but I never got that far. His is a borderline case and they can limp at any time. It was unnerving to be going down the freeway at 70 and anticipating an engine shut down at any second. Then I would pull over and it would still be idling but if I shut it off and restarted it would be fine...........for awhile. I could put my hand on the valve cover for a normal amount of time at that time also, and there was no sensation of heat on my face.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 11:35 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by EXv10
Nobody said it was stuck shut.
I guess I would tend to believe that the sensor would indicate an UNDER-TEMP situation if it were stuck open..

I have no idea where the temp sensor is on the OP's truck. I suppose I could step outside to my 99 and see where it is, but it may not be in the same location. Yes, sometimes they can be a bear to get at..
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 11:44 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Tom
That is certainly true. The fact that it showed normal after you restarted it indicates to me that you have an electrical issue with the sensor. I would start by testing the sensor and the associated wiring.

An easy check would be to monitor the temperature from the OBD port with a Scangauge or other type of scan tool. When the gauge pegs high what temp is the PCM seeing? How fast does it get there?
The fine after restart is from the sticky stat sitting in the hot water and finally opening when the truck is restarted. The only way we will know is for the OP to replace either the stat or the sending unit..
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 11:51 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Bigpipes 35
The fine after restart is from the sticky stat sitting in the hot water and finally opening when the truck is restarted. The only way we will know is for the OP to replace either the stat or the sending unit..
He needs to replace the stat AND the cap at a different time than the sensor to find the cause. I made that mistake with a power steering pump and fixing the axle u-joints at the same time one time. What was jerking the steering wheel was a big mystery and never really solved but I am leaning towards the u-joints.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 11:52 AM
  #26  
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Okay - I just went out and checked for the temp sensor location on my 99 SD V10.

It is right on the top of the intake manifold coolant crossover about 3" away from the thermostat housing and would take no more than 20 minutes to change including coolant drain and refill..
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 11:59 AM
  #27  
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I had an 00 F350 V10 truck that did the same thing. I had a bad temp sensor that caused all sorts of issues. I replaced the thermostat and cap and the issue remained. I took it to my mechanic at that point since I'm not good with electrical in cars. He cleaned all the grounds and replaced the sending unit. I had no issues after that point.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 12:23 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Kdr358
I had an 00 F350 V10 truck that did the same thing. I had a bad temp sensor that caused all sorts of issues. I replaced the thermostat and cap and the issue remained. I took it to my mechanic at that point since I'm not good with electrical in cars. He cleaned all the grounds and replaced the sending unit. I had no issues after that point.
But not limp issues.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 12:32 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by EXv10
But not limp issues.
Correct, my truck never went into limp mode. I agree with you that there is probably a thermostat issue or cap issue. Rarely the water pump could be on it's way out.

I would start with the cap, any auto parts store will rent a pressure test kit. Test your cap and make sure it holds to the proper psi. I have had thermostats stick partially closed before.

My 03 Crown Victoria only got hot when driving around town and it was at random. I did the old boiling water trick and sure enough it never fully opened.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 12:42 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Big-Foot
Okay - I just went out and checked for the temp sensor location on my 99 SD V10.

It is right on the top of the intake manifold coolant crossover about 3" away from the thermostat housing and would take no more than 20 minutes to change including coolant drain and refill..
That's the coolant temp sensor, look under that on the head
 
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