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Hey Folks,
Does anyone know where to find freeze 12 that's "reasonably" priced. I'm not entirely sure if it's been discontinued so I may be stuck finding an alternative however here's the situation if anyone has some input.
Truck still had r12 when I got it. It was low and I managed to find a few cans of Freeze 12 (back in 2012). Charged the system and it worked pretty darn good however there is a slow leak and i'm back to needing to "top off" the system.
I know this isn't ideal, legal, etc. but for the small amount that leaked in the 2 years I'm just going to let it be. I have bigger fish to fry and praying by next year I can just redo the whole a/c system with 134 or something readily available.
The reason I'm looking for the freeze 12 is that I had already put that in and figured it would be better to at least use that or even Freon 12 (if I can actually find it) as opposed to that enviro-safe crap I've heard so many bad things about. If anyone's used it and it works I'd also love to hear your thoughts.
You are making this too hard. Just convert it to r134a. It's easy.
1. Go to Harbor Freight and get their vacuum pump on sale for about $100. Or better yet, borrow one from someone or where someone works. Suck the system down for a few hours.
2. Get a conversion kit from one of the parts stores. Get the kit with the ester oil already in the cans.
3. Install the kit(conversion fittings) and put the r134a/oil combo in the system. You are done.
Now when it leaks just buy a can of 134a every year and stick that in. That's what I do, I have a slow leak also(compressor seal).
You are making this too hard. Just convert it to r134a. It's easy.
1. Go to Harbor Freight and get their vacuum pump on sale for about $100. Or better yet, borrow one from someone or where someone works. Suck the system down for a few hours.
2. Get a conversion kit from one of the parts stores. Get the kit with the ester oil already in the cans.
3. Install the kit(conversion fittings) and put the r134a/oil combo in the system. You are done.
Now when it leaks just buy a can of 134a every year and stick that in. That's what I do, I have a slow leak also(compressor seal).
You don't need;
New lines
New o-rings
New accumulator
New/different color/variable orfice valve.
Bigger condensor in front of the radiator
You do not need to flush the system either.
Quoted for truth.
I did mine back in 99 or 00. Still works, just needs a top up every summer.
Wow seriously? Why have I not heard of this trick before? I actually have a vac pump and manifold gauges so this is a home frikken run. I just never wanted to be bothered opening the system, flushing it, etc.
How well does the 134a work without all the supposed "upgrades" like the bigger condenser?
On a semi-side note how should/how could I evacuate the r12/freeze 12 that's currently in the system? Or what's left of it...
Hypothetically, what were to happen if i just hooked up the vac pump and let her run? I don't have an evacuation canister.
I have to say this is a pretty dern good idea, especially since I only use the a/c occasionally (when it's dreadfully humid out). Sinking big bucks into freeze12 or an R12 compatible refrigerant isn't particularly what I should be doing. Still have brakes and a starter issue to sort out. Hah!
I have to turn down my dash controls with the r134a or it gets too cold in the cab. That's cold enough for me. Does it work as well as the r12? Probably not, but it works good enough for me and most people. It works just as well as my wife's 94 honda and it came from the factory with r134a.
I have to turn mine off occasionally, so the evaporator can can thaw out.... It ices up after a while.
An iced evaporator is a whole new issue, most likely unrelated to the 134 conversion.
I changed out an 85 van from 12 to 134 just using the conversion fittings and a vacuum pump, like others stated, appeared to cool just as well as before the switch. ~Bill
It mainly just frosts over, but on the real humid days, if left running for a long time, it can build ice. I should note, it's dealer added air, and has no recirc feature, so it's always pulling in outside air. Not ideal in humid climates......
The 74 works very well, and it was done the same way. So was my RX7.
So I started gathering the goods to do my AC and realized (more like forgot) I need an adapter for the high side to get a proper reading on my gauge.
How has you guys tackled this or are you just reading low pressure?
I did buy the 4 pc. "retrofit kit" from Advance Auto only for the quick disconnects (i know its not entirely necessary) but if you guys have even bothered with this how did you hook it up to the high side? The threaded factory port on my '84 is smaller than the low side; obviously done for safety, etc...
You can fill it with just the low side guage if you are careful. Make sure to roll the windows down and turn the fan on high, you want to keep warm air going across the coil inside the dash and keep feeling the air coming out of the vents. The two cans in the kit usually get you going for most systems. I think I remember on my 89 conversion I need the two oil/gas conversion cans and half a can of regular 134a.
I converted mine back in March and the 134a works fine. My low side pressure was about 35psi. Can't remember what the high side read, but one thing for sure you don't want to put to much in. Sure wish they still put sight glasses in the systems, it sure made thing a whole lot easier to know when you were full.
There should be a conversion fitting available for it.
Welp, I was really only asking because the high side fitting that does fit the smaller factory high-side looks looks like it will not allow the 134a quick connector to contact/push the schrader valve pin. I guess the only way to find out it to just hook it up.
I found a kit on amazon. Advance Auto sells them too but at a ridiculously higher price. 2 cans of "synthetic" r134a w/oil charge and one can contains UV dye. Kit also comes with UV light pen. I would imagine this is suitable but any reason why I shouldn't use a synthetic refrigerant? Link is below. Not sure if I need an extra can or so but at least this stuff is readily avail.
Welp, I was really only asking because the high side fitting that does fit the smaller factory high-side looks looks like it will not allow the 134a quick connector to contact/push the schrader valve pin. I guess the only way to find out it to just hook it up.
I found a kit on amazon. Advance Auto sells them too but at a ridiculously higher price. 2 cans of "synthetic" r134a w/oil charge and one can contains UV dye. Kit also comes with UV light pen. I would imagine this is suitable but any reason why I shouldn't use a synthetic refrigerant? Link is below. Not sure if I need an extra can or so but at least this stuff is readily avail.
What you are looking at is not a conversion kit, just a refill kit. You need the kit with the fittings and the oil in the refrigerant. In that link above I see refrigerant and stop leak. Even though you may already have the conversion fittings, you might end up buying and getting another kit with them included. Most kits will probably have the fittings in them.
What you are looking at is not a conversion kit, just a refill kit. You need the kit with the fittings and the oil in the refrigerant. In that link above I see refrigerant and stop leak. Even though you may already have the conversion fittings, you might end up buying and getting another kit with them included. Most kits will probably have the fittings in them.
Dave, when you say the "oil in the refrigerant" do you mean a separate can thats primarily oil with a small 134 charge? I know I'm probably over thinking this but I can't seem to find a 134a can (say 12 or 16oz) WITH ester oil. If they say "contains oil" it then doesn't say what kind of oil or am I to assume it's universal?
That kit I found on Amazon posted a while back claims to contain oil but doesn't say what oil.
Just trying to get one more "project" off my list before summers over.