78 F250 4x4 Build
#1
78 F250 4x4 Build
Ive decided that im going to build up my 78 F250 4x4 351m. Right now its my daily driver but down the road I plan to do a ground up restoration. I currently own 4 trucks from 76 to 79. This is the only one on the road and I plan to build the others at a later time. Also own a 2002 ranger 2wd which will be my daily driver again once I fix the motor. Will post pictures and updates on everything that I do. Its a 4speed with married transfer case.
Some things on my to do list:
New tires 35x12.50x16.5(added 38.5x12.50.16.5 tsl)
Replace power steering pump and lines (complete)
New shoes, hardware, adjusters and seals on the rear d60 (complete)
New rotors, pads, bearings on the front d60
Install a radio, new antenna, speakers and possibly a sub behind the seat.
Polyurethane body bushings
3inch body lift(complete)
Get new driver side door(got the passenger mounted)
Replace driver side fender
Install a new gas tank and lines without eec hole
Get a new intake and 4bbl carb (complete)
Tear apart my 460 motor and stroke it
Fix the wiring issues and dash cluster
Install a tach (complete sunpro 3)
Paint the rear bumper or buy a chrome one
Replace the flatbed with a 8 foot box
Fix the winsheild wipers ( they stop intermittently)
Paint the driveshafts, gas tank, drums, calipers red (calipers and gas tank is done)
Get new shocks with red boots(got shocks, need boots)
Dynamat the inside of the cab
Fix the dome lights
Add clearance lights to cab
Move frame horns up 3 inches
Redrill and tap flywheel for 12 inch clutch
Rebuild front axle
Add cross over steering
Some things on my to do list:
New tires 35x12.50x16.5(added 38.5x12.50.16.5 tsl)
Replace power steering pump and lines (complete)
New shoes, hardware, adjusters and seals on the rear d60 (complete)
New rotors, pads, bearings on the front d60
Install a radio, new antenna, speakers and possibly a sub behind the seat.
Polyurethane body bushings
3inch body lift(complete)
Get new driver side door(got the passenger mounted)
Replace driver side fender
Install a new gas tank and lines without eec hole
Get a new intake and 4bbl carb (complete)
Tear apart my 460 motor and stroke it
Fix the wiring issues and dash cluster
Install a tach (complete sunpro 3)
Paint the rear bumper or buy a chrome one
Replace the flatbed with a 8 foot box
Fix the winsheild wipers ( they stop intermittently)
Paint the driveshafts, gas tank, drums, calipers red (calipers and gas tank is done)
Get new shocks with red boots(got shocks, need boots)
Dynamat the inside of the cab
Fix the dome lights
Add clearance lights to cab
Move frame horns up 3 inches
Redrill and tap flywheel for 12 inch clutch
Rebuild front axle
Add cross over steering
#2
#3
Does anyone know how to upload pictures off a cell phone? The new uploader isnt giving me a confirm option once I click my image.
@emerald I know they share the same bell housing but if I recall I need an adapter plate or something to use the 351m/400 starter. My 460 is externally balanced if that matters on the swap. Also dont I need a 360/390 flywheel?
@emerald I know they share the same bell housing but if I recall I need an adapter plate or something to use the 351m/400 starter. My 460 is externally balanced if that matters on the swap. Also dont I need a 360/390 flywheel?
#4
#5
#6
Does anyone know how to upload pictures off a cell phone? The new uploader isnt giving me a confirm option once I click my image.
@emerald I know they share the same bell housing but if I recall I need an adapter plate or something to use the 351m/400 starter. My 460 is externally balanced if that matters on the swap. Also dont I need a 360/390 flywheel?
@emerald I know they share the same bell housing but if I recall I need an adapter plate or something to use the 351m/400 starter. My 460 is externally balanced if that matters on the swap. Also dont I need a 360/390 flywheel?
#7
Since your 460 is externally balanced, all you need is a bell housing from an 80's truck with a 460/4 speed combo (aluminum). You should easily be able to use factory parts to mate everything together. Using an internally balanced engine requires the FE flywheel, etc.. I used a 351m starter when I swapped in my 429 thunderjet, no problems to date with no silly adapter plate, etc.
Trending Topics
#8
That is the gist of it, yes. Have a read through these links. The second one is the one I used the most when I did my swap.
75 Highboy..changing FE to BBF...spacer for bellhousing? - 460 Ford Forum
1973-1979 Ford Truck 460 V-8 Swap
75 Highboy..changing FE to BBF...spacer for bellhousing? - 460 Ford Forum
1973-1979 Ford Truck 460 V-8 Swap
#9
That is the gist of it, yes. Have a read through these links. The second one is the one I used the most when I did my swap.
75 Highboy..changing FE to BBF...spacer for bellhousing? - 460 Ford Forum
1973-1979 Ford Truck 460 V-8 Swap
75 Highboy..changing FE to BBF...spacer for bellhousing? - 460 Ford Forum
1973-1979 Ford Truck 460 V-8 Swap
#12
Not much happened this week, I installed a new top post battery from Napa. Removed my heater controls so I can install new cables, old ones were all frozen.
I plan to clear coat or chrome the new cables so they dont rust. Has anyone tried this with success? I would also like to paint or powder choat the control levers, anyone know how to take these off? I imagine the ***** get glued on or do they just push on?
I plan to clear coat or chrome the new cables so they dont rust. Has anyone tried this with success? I would also like to paint or powder choat the control levers, anyone know how to take these off? I imagine the ***** get glued on or do they just push on?
#13
As far as the rusty cables some penetrate like PB plaster could help, but then you have to contend with the smell, unless you use it for aftershave anyway, lol.
Spray down the inner cable best you can in either max in or out position. Then you might wipe down the outer cable sleeve with WD-40 or something else? Maybe a light coat of grease with a rag? I recon painting just the outer cable them might work also to stop the rust.
The control levers cab be masked off to be painted and the ***** might have a metal lock on that is like the back side of the windshield wiper ****, takes a small flat tip to get it to release.
You can clean the ***** themselves up with WD and some steel wool, Mothers chrome polish, and even some aluminium foil.
Spray down the inner cable best you can in either max in or out position. Then you might wipe down the outer cable sleeve with WD-40 or something else? Maybe a light coat of grease with a rag? I recon painting just the outer cable them might work also to stop the rust.
The control levers cab be masked off to be painted and the ***** might have a metal lock on that is like the back side of the windshield wiper ****, takes a small flat tip to get it to release.
You can clean the ***** themselves up with WD and some steel wool, Mothers chrome polish, and even some aluminium foil.
#15
Not much has been going on lately with the 78, I did run into some charging issues recently. I burnt up a starter and my alternator. Not sure how the alternator went. But I ended up replacing the starter, alternator and voltage regulator(had surface rust so figured I might as well). Everything seemed fine drove the truck to work, went to leave work and my truck was dead. So I jumped it and disconnected the negative battery cable while the truck was running. The truck died, so ok its not charging... to confirm I repeated this step but with the positive cable. Now I assumed it was the new alternator because the alternators power goes into the solenoid same side as the battery positive. Took the alt off and it benched tested fine. Put a used alt on out of another truck I have and same thing. Come to find out my ALT light in my cluster blew I was just about ready to throw a 1 cable chevy alternator on it that goes right to the battery instead of the solenoid. Never occurded to me to even check that. So everything is back together and running fine, have a few wires I want to clean up on the alternator.
Still collecting parts for an electric fan and 3g alternator swap, once I have all the parts I hope the parts store will return my alternator for free or exchange it for a 3g one. Also need to replace my u-joints a.s.a.p mine clunk and vibrate like crazy.
Now I have around 7 starters in my parts barn, before I bought the new started I tried all of these and they are all seized up. Anyone know a good way to unseize these? They were all working fine before I let them sit in the barn.
Still collecting parts for an electric fan and 3g alternator swap, once I have all the parts I hope the parts store will return my alternator for free or exchange it for a 3g one. Also need to replace my u-joints a.s.a.p mine clunk and vibrate like crazy.
Now I have around 7 starters in my parts barn, before I bought the new started I tried all of these and they are all seized up. Anyone know a good way to unseize these? They were all working fine before I let them sit in the barn.