i have a 1969 f100 with a 240 straight six. it started to run a little rough so I replaced the plugs wires, sparkplugs, cap, rotor, and points.
it was running like a top. i parked it for a week now. i went to start it today and nothing.it turns over just fine. i checked a few things and i found that my coil had no spark so i went a got a new one still no spark. any help out there

thanks
bigjoe

 

I would check the points,(dwell) and make sure you have voltage to the coil. If that is ok and still no spark then try using the old condenser that you replaced and see if you have spark then.

 

If that don't fix it then make sure the coil is good.....strange things happen when you change out parts....

 

I never owned a car with points. I don't know what dwell is. my auto parts stores don't have my Chilton in stock. can you tell me what the voltage on the coil is in the off and on.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Pick-up-Chilton-Repair-Manual-1965-86-Full-size-F100-F350-2wd-4wd-/321428131681?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item4ad69c0f61&vxp=mtr
I bought one like this on ebay. Pretty useful. Also found a hard copy of the Ford Service manuals for engine and chassis - like those even better.

But feel you pain on points. I had not had points on a vehicle since about 35 years ago. I can't remember much about them. So I replaced mine with a pertonix.

 

Disconnect the bottom (-) side of the coil from the distributor or module. Turn on the ignition switch. You should have battery voltage on both terminals of the coil.
If you have an ohmeter, disconnect the battery cable and read resistance on the primary (+ to - should be a few ohms) and secondary (should be several thousand ohms).
Coils almost never fail.

 

Look in your dizzy for any loose ground wire or point/condenser wires shorting loose points wire nut. If all ok try Hot wiring it. Run a jumper wire from the battery+Hot side to the coil + side terminal you can remove the wire coming from the ign. key.

Then see if it will crank up using the key ign switch.
You'll have to remove the Hot wire to kill the motor.

Orich

 

COIL should have 8 - 10 volts to the positive side. try the old matchbook cover to gap your points its worked the best for me.

 

Unless it overheats by leaving the ignition switch on while the points are closed........

 

On the positive side of the coil you should read battery voltage when ignition switch is on and zero when it is off.

The dwell for that engine is 35-40 degrees. If you don't have a dwell meter then set the point gap at .027" with the points at the farthest open on the distributor cam.

The reason I said to try the old condenser if everything else checks right is because when I used to tune these age vehicles for a living there was a lot higher failure rate with new condensers than there was with the old ones. I would rather leave the old one that has been working in the car than install a new one.

 

2xRed69
Ah yea my x father in law tuned up his 66 352 and the next day drove to meet up at a fishing hole. He said the damn truck was now missing and he did not know if he was going to make their that morning. The next day, I went over to help him figure out what was wrong.

Well we put back in the old spark plugs "bingo" The New Autolite plugs were junk!
He returned them and was given more plugs that were okay then!

So yeah new parts don't mean it's a good part.

Orich

 

2X's Orich on the new parts (plugs) sometimes being bad. Years ago I replaced the spark plugs in my 1972 Torino. Wouldn't run. After much hair pulling, found that 6 of 8 plugs had no spark, the other two were weak. (Champions).

 

NOTE. Autolites are NOT Ford Motor Company. Too many people think they are. I use strictly Ford Motorcraft plugs. Never had a bad one. Ford is strict on there tolorances,materials,etc.
This is except my S/C '03 Harley F150. With all the go fast goodies on it, it requires plugs a colder heat range than what Motorcraft makes.

 

Correct yes but the trouble was most auto parts store did not carry them and did not have them in stock. Had to special order them even a Napa, I had to order them 10 yrs ago. May be they carried them for later models fords but not the BFR32,BF32,or even the BF42's. So we were suck the Autolites. I remember back in the early 60's I went in the auto parts store and asked for a set of BF42 Motorcraft plugs and the counter man said sorry we stopped carrying those as ford pulled all plugs off the market. But we have 2nd best Autolites.

At least Walmart carries Motorcraft oil filters..
orich

 

thanks everyone ill check out everything in the morning