2003 ford e250 4.2l A/C PROBLEMS
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: NJ
2003 ford e250 4.2l A/C PROBLEMS
ok here is what I got. blowing HOT all the time . the system seems to be working ok compressor kicking on, line gets cold where it should etc . I popped the panel off the middle of the dash and flipped the switch around to check actuators. the two worked. I got down low on passenger side and watched that open and close. seems to be working fine. when i use the hot and cold button i don't hear anything switch . not sure if im suppose to hear anything mechanical switch.
1. I don't have water dripping like you normally would see when the a/c is on. would a clogged drain cause it to be hot all the time ? and where is it lol
2. can the system be cold at one section of the pipe and something be clogged and still blowing hot?
3. on the passenger lower side there is a box with a cover that gets warm and has 1/4" nuts on it and a electrical something on the side maybe another door. i haven't taken it off yet don't know whats in there.
4. do i need to take off the whole dash to see whats going on more ?
5. can how can you test the hot and cold switch??
THANKS
1. I don't have water dripping like you normally would see when the a/c is on. would a clogged drain cause it to be hot all the time ? and where is it lol
2. can the system be cold at one section of the pipe and something be clogged and still blowing hot?
3. on the passenger lower side there is a box with a cover that gets warm and has 1/4" nuts on it and a electrical something on the side maybe another door. i haven't taken it off yet don't know whats in there.
4. do i need to take off the whole dash to see whats going on more ?
5. can how can you test the hot and cold switch??
THANKS
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
IF the compressor is kicking in and you can feel one of the lines leading into the heater box (for the evaporator coil) getting cold your refrigeration part of the system is working.
Since you've seen the vacuum servos (actuators) working in concert with the Function contro (Heat, Vent, Defrost, A/C, Max A/C that part is also working well.
The lack of temp change is due a faulty temp control (on the dash board) OR the blend door isn't working per its commands.
First order of business is determining whether the refrigerant side of your system really is working.
After that let us know and we'll do what we can to help a bit more.
Since you've seen the vacuum servos (actuators) working in concert with the Function contro (Heat, Vent, Defrost, A/C, Max A/C that part is also working well.
The lack of temp change is due a faulty temp control (on the dash board) OR the blend door isn't working per its commands.
First order of business is determining whether the refrigerant side of your system really is working.
After that let us know and we'll do what we can to help a bit more.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,870
Likes: 47
From: Tennessee
If ! I remember correctly ... The electric bit on the pass side is the blend door motor . It controls the blend door that regulates hot an cold . Common for them to fail , and , doors to break . Fairly easy fix on the vans . Dash does not need to be removed , just a few panels , and possibly heater core , depending on issue .
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
If ! I remember correctly ... The electric bit on the pass side is the blend door motor . It controls the blend door that regulates hot an cold . Common for them to fail , and , doors to break . Fairly easy fix on the vans . Dash does not need to be removed , just a few panels , and possibly heater core , depending on issue .
There is a single screw at the top of the heater core outer cover (interior) that's nearly impossible to remove, to wit:
The bit just in front is a vent duct---it can NOT be removed for this operation nor is there a direct straight in access point to it.
Here was my solution:
That screw is located as shown at AA here, case removed from vehicle:
The process of R&R'ing anything from the heater core to the blend door is relatively simple in theory. Dash does NOT have to be removed although Ford's shop manual says it does---pays about 10 hours labor from what I've heard. The work arounds make this pretty much a DIY project albeit one that refreshes our cuss word vocabulary.
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