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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Clutch not fully disengaging??

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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 01:05 PM
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Clutch not fully disengaging??

Ok so heres whats going on. Sometimes, often, when at a stop sitting in neutral, When i go to shift into 1st or 2nd(i start in 2nd more often) it is near impossible to get it into gear. sometimes having to use both hands, and sometimes it still doesn't go and I have to sit at the green light like a retard for a few seconds then try again. Then one day i noticed that if i pump the clutch pedal a few times before trying, it makes it easier. Still not easy, but easier. THEN, i noticed one day in my driveway that when i got it into 2nd gear (still at a stop) the truck started to move forward ( i had not let out the pedal yet.) So i put it in reverse and it did the same thing. moved backwards slowly when I never let the clutch pedal out. So what that says to me is the clutch isn't fully disengaging when I'm depressing the pedal. My slave cylinder can't be that old as it looks new and is the cleanest thing under there. Checked the reservoir and its full. So maybe there is just air in the line? I checked all the lines and no signs of a leak, How could air have gotten in there? And maybe I just need to adjust the pedal? Can you do that?

Anyway.. any input helps!
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 01:32 PM
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Sorry, but it is tough to diagnose if we don't know what you have. There are two different clutch mechanisms and they each have their own issues.

At some number of posts you can put the info in your sig. Please do that so we don't have to ask questions.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 01:54 PM
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Without any further information I would say it's the hydraulic clutch since he mentioned reservoir. Anyway, it sounds like you either have air in the line or a leak around the slave cylinder seal which isn't giving you enough pressure.

I would first get a buddy and try to bleed the slave cylinder. It's just like doing brakes. Depress, open the valve, close the valve, let off the pedal, repeat. I had this same issue with mine after I replaced the ring gear on mine.

You have to make sure you get ALL the air out. You can compress gas but not a fluid.

As to how air got in there, I would check all the lines and make sure that your master and slave cylinders don't have any leaks where air could be introduced.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 03:14 PM
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Good catch, Jeremy. I missed the "reservoir" part. But, to tell the truth I was scanning for info on engine, year, etc as w/o that we won't know what mechanism he has.

So, if it is a hydraulic unit you may have a cracked firewall. These trucks weren't designed for the directional forces the hydraulic clutch mechanism puts on the firewall and they crack because of it. Ford made a bracket to spread the forces, but if your firewall is cracked it needs to be fixed first and then the bracket installed.

To check, have someone watch the master cylinder while another pushes the clutch in. There should be no movement of the M/C.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 03:27 PM
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Good advice Gary. I forgot about the cracked firewall issue. Did they skimp on the firewalls on some trucks but not others? I haven't had any problems with mine and I've replaced both master and slave cylinders... twice.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 03:30 PM
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I think all of the trucks were the same, but some clutches may have required more pressure than others.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 03:51 PM
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Hey sorry guys! its a 1985 f250 with the 6.9L diesel. Im going to try and bleed it today, and as far as the firewall being cracked I've never heard of that issue but there is no play in the slave or master cylinder when the clutch is depressed. I read somewhere that maybe the fork just got bent a little bit?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 05:02 PM
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I second the motion to have somebody push the clutch while you look at the firewall, there are several threads on that problem here in the Sticky:

Firewall Flex/Crack Repair
Firewall cracks at the clutch master cylinder
hydraulic clutch, firewall flex repair
Clutch Firewall Reinforcement plate installation
Severely damaged firewall repair plate
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 05:05 PM
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Okk I'll do that. and to make sure, the firewall where the pedal is bolted in correct? I don't see why a crack somewhere else would affect it...
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 05:16 PM
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The firewall where the master cylinder is bolted, look at the pictures in those threads.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 05:31 PM
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ok.. well. after convincing the wife to come press the clutch in, the firewall does move. a very small fraction of a fraction of an inch. if i had to guess i would say it moves about the width of a quarter or so.. is that just natural flex, or a crack? and if it is a crack, why would pumping the pedal help?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 05:36 PM
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Other clutch issues I've encountered:
1) The plastic retainer bushing that holds the belcrank to the master cylinder pushrod fails and the eye of the rod wears a groove in the pin.
(this is above the gas pedal)

2) The plastic crossover shaft bushings in the pedal support casting wear out and the holes get oval.
This casting is No Longer Available.

 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
The firewall is where the master cylinder is bolted.
Oops, thanks; fixed.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 05:42 PM
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The firewall is where the master cylinder is bolted.
Have someone press the clutch while you look for the master cylinder to move from under the hood.


Ok did all that.. barely moves.. about the width of a quarter. almost seems like naturally flex... if not and it is a crack why does pumping the pedal help every time?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 05:57 PM
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Are you losing any fluid?

If not, I would say the master cylinder is bypassing.

Go under the truck and have your wife step on the pedal, and hold it down.
You need to see at least 5/8" of movement from the clutch arm at the socket where the slave pushrod engages.

Watch for a moment while she holds the pedal, and see if the fork slowly disengages.
 
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