After many years and countless days of blowing it off, I am going to pull the 360/C-6 out of my '74 SCS this weekend. The 360 will not return, the C-6 will.

Looking for tip and/or check list of things to do to make this task easier and learn from the mistakes of others.

I want o pull the two assemblies together and then seperate them after they are out.

Would be appreciative of links to prior threads or posts on how to do this as painless as possible, in spite of the rusted bolts!

 

If you are planning on restoring the truck and you don't have another motor ready to go back in then take off the hood an front clip (radiator support included ) .. It will give you an opportunity to set everything up front right while you wait for your new motor .. The C-6 you have will only bolt up to another FE motor so if you want to go bigger that means 390, 410, and 428 etc. .. A 460 is cheaper to build but will require a different C-6 .. A 351M and 400 C-6 will work also .. You will also need different engine perches and the ones from the 351M and 400 will also work and if your truck is 2wd then the perches must also be from a 2wd truck .

 

Hello from another Portland on the west coast.

I second the front clip. I recently pulled the 460/c6 out of my 73 scs and it was incredibly simple to pull the front and both fenders completely assembled and they are not nearly as heavy as one would think. When you pull the motor it's pretty much straight out.

If you know this method then disregard the rest of this post, I had a hard time finding the information and thought I would save you some time.

If you have A/C and don't want to discharge and open the system this method will not work for you. My A/C was dead so it didn't matter. This is all from memory as I'm not home to look at the truck but.....

Remove the bumper to get it out of the way.
With the hood off.
Disconnect the A/C lines that go to the core support.
Pull the radiator - less chance of it getting messed up.
Core support bolts - get a kit to replace the whole setup as they are probably shot. Bronco Graveyard has them, but when I ordered mine they were back-ordered so you might call instead of internet ordering.
Fender bolt bottom just in front of the door.
Rubber strap that holds the inner fender to the firewall, accessible from the wheel well.
The space between the fender and the cab, right in front of the door. This one can be a bit of a challenge for big arms.
The 3 bolts each side that hold the top of the fender to the firewall, the ones that run through the fender and not the ones that bolt into the firewall, I broke an anchor trying to remove those and have yet to figure out how to get to it without tearing the truck apart.
And of course the various items attached to the inner fenders, unplug the front lights harness.
You get on one side someone on the other and walk it forward.

As far as rusted bolts, PB Blaster or maybe Sea Foam at least the day BEFORE you want to take them off so it has a chance to work on the rust. My local Ace hardware has an incredible selection of automotive fasteners so I usually check there first.

Hope this helps a bit.

 

x 2 on removing the complete front clip as a assembly. You do not have to remove the radiator, just have 2 more people come take off time.

The inner fender (one bolt) is accessed with the doors open, so make sure you have it in a wide enough shop....

Scribe mark the under side of the hood where the brackets are, that way its easy come realignment time.

The core support bolts hopefully are not rusted to pieces, if stuck and not coming out its zawzall time. Go above the frame, below the core, no torch the rubber grommets smoke like crazy.

Have a tire or something to set the front part of the clip (core support) on so you do not bend the bottom front edge of the fenders.

If you take the front clip off you can easily pull the motor and trans as a unit, with the front clip on better separate the 2 otherwise PITA.

 

It definitely does. Thanks for the input. I do not have A/C so that issue is not a problem. Guess I am toying most with whether to pull the front clip or not. Looks like 2 votes to do that right now.

If you pull the fenders and rad support do you have top jack the truck up or can it sit naturally? Jacking or even ramps bug me and I prefer not to jack unless required.

 

No jacking required unless the tires are flat .. the only spot that might be tuff if you have a big belly is disconnecting the drive shaft from the rear of the tranny and trans mount .. Also if you pull the yoke out of the trans be sure and plug the hole or you'll have trans fluid everywhere when you lift it ..


Motor minus intake and carb .. only yours will be most likely way dirtier




Before you lift take off the carb and intake use your hoist to lift it save your back save 2 of the bolts 6-8 flat washers for the intake bot size .. It will be 3-4 for each side .. so with the intake off and your intake bolts and flat washers in hand rig a chain across from head to head .. That will be your lifting point .. I would try bolt 9 and 8 in the pic below for the best balance .. Good luck and don't do anything unless your confident it's safe

 

Well it came out! Almost no tranny fluid leak and the only think we (slightly) hit was the top of the radiator support. Two minutes with a small plier and ball peen hammer and it will be invisible.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Anyone want a 2 barrel 360 with about 53K on it? Leaks oil out the back of the intake but looks pretty good other than that.

 

Glad it went well ..

 

Shoot, I'd take that 360, but your on the other side of the country!

If it's only got 53k on it that block should be a great starter for a 390 or maybe a 445 stroker build.

Sam