identify this please
#1
identify this please
Can some one tell me what this please,
the other day my truck was running in carport for about 10 min or so, , it died and i had nothing at all no light no elect fan no nothing, , it sit for about 2 min and i had power again it started right up, it did that twice that day, , and today i was out on road and at a red light it did it again, , sit for 1 and half or so started right up, ,,, so i have a wire that runs from battery to starter and then to this i think,, and then to key switch should i runa wire straight from battery to key switch? whats your guys opinion
Thanks
the other day my truck was running in carport for about 10 min or so, , it died and i had nothing at all no light no elect fan no nothing, , it sit for about 2 min and i had power again it started right up, it did that twice that day, , and today i was out on road and at a red light it did it again, , sit for 1 and half or so started right up, ,,, so i have a wire that runs from battery to starter and then to this i think,, and then to key switch should i runa wire straight from battery to key switch? whats your guys opinion
Thanks
#3
#4
#6
The last picture is a horn relay . I think you have a short that is causing the circuit breaker to trip , then when it cools down it resets and you have power . Do not try and by pass the breaker , you may burn the truck up . It may be a bad breaker , but I would look for a main wire that has rubbed or got against something hot .
#7
Nope! circuit breaker is a protective overload switch. If something is causing a large current draw (close to or more than breaker rating) a bimetal strip starts to heat up and bend. If it gets hot enough to move away from the contact the switch opens, shutting off the power thru it. Without current flowing the strip cools down and bends back to make contact again. This can happen quickly if the overload is high, or less frequently if it is marginal or reaches the break point only when you turn on a connected circuit that overloads it such as the wiper or heater motor or even the cigarette lighter. The advantage of the circuit breaker over a fuse is that it is self resetting giving you a chance to reduce the load or limping to a safe location. Track the wiring or disconnect connections andand find what doesn't work to find out what is possibly causing the overload and/or measure the current flow on each when on with a VOM then add all together to see how close you are to an overload. If close or over you can add another breaker and split the load or if one device is very high you may want to repair or replace that device.
An ignition resistor (also called a ballast resistor) reduces the current flowing to the coil while the engine is running normally to reduce the wear and tear on the ignition system. It is bypassed by the ignition switch when in the start position to allow the coil to produce maximum spark to aid quick starting. It often looks like a coil of wire nested in a thick ceramic insulator. It should have only one wire connected at each end.
An ignition resistor (also called a ballast resistor) reduces the current flowing to the coil while the engine is running normally to reduce the wear and tear on the ignition system. It is bypassed by the ignition switch when in the start position to allow the coil to produce maximum spark to aid quick starting. It often looks like a coil of wire nested in a thick ceramic insulator. It should have only one wire connected at each end.
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#8
Join Date: Sep 2006
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If when it's running and all lights and everything are bright and working
right I would replace the circuit breaker with a new one the same size.
Any parts place should have one. They do wear out. Like a 30 amp one
will kick off at 15 amps. And if it is running a 15 or 20 amp load it will do this.
Does the volt or amp gauge seem like it is carrying a big load?
Like showing it is always charging hard?
If so there may be a short somewhere. Are you running the lights or a big amp or any
power hungry stuff when it trips?
You said it did it at a stop light. Maybe a short in the brake lights?
Still I would first replace it with another. Prolly a 30 amp.
With lights and a big *** sound system that could be close to being maxed out.
Replace with the same size that is already there.
Last thought. Have ya recently added any lights or power hungry
things to the truck and this started shortly after? Only then would I
consider a breaker bigger that what is now there.
Or split the system and add another one for lights and other power hungry stuff.
right I would replace the circuit breaker with a new one the same size.
Any parts place should have one. They do wear out. Like a 30 amp one
will kick off at 15 amps. And if it is running a 15 or 20 amp load it will do this.
Does the volt or amp gauge seem like it is carrying a big load?
Like showing it is always charging hard?
If so there may be a short somewhere. Are you running the lights or a big amp or any
power hungry stuff when it trips?
You said it did it at a stop light. Maybe a short in the brake lights?
Still I would first replace it with another. Prolly a 30 amp.
With lights and a big *** sound system that could be close to being maxed out.
Replace with the same size that is already there.
Last thought. Have ya recently added any lights or power hungry
things to the truck and this started shortly after? Only then would I
consider a breaker bigger that what is now there.
Or split the system and add another one for lights and other power hungry stuff.
#10
i did add new tail lights the chrome ones ,, but the puzzling thing the first 2 times it did it it was sitting in carport no brake lights just there ,, now it was hot that day and things under the hood was hot too ,like 190 could be that it is weak and getting weaker i have delt with bi metal strips ,, and seems like once they start kicking they need to be replaced as in any breaker ,, i been out there sense the first post and had it running and it didnt stop ,, the next test i will have it hot and sit there with brakes on i was hoping it would do it so i could check for power ,, the volt gauge dont show anything different something like 12.5 to 13 ,,
so whats the one under the dash called again
circuit breaker? or ignition resistor ? and its a 30amp ?
thanks guys for helping
so whats the one under the dash called again
circuit breaker? or ignition resistor ? and its a 30amp ?
thanks guys for helping
#11
#13
Nope! circuit breaker is a protective overload switch. If something is causing a large current draw (close to or more than breaker rating) a bimetal strip starts to heat up and bend. If it gets hot enough to move away from the contact the switch opens, shutting off the power thru it. Without current flowing the strip cools down and bends back to make contact again. This can happen quickly if the overload is high, or less frequently if it is marginal or reaches the break point only when you turn on a connected circuit that overloads it such as the wiper or heater motor or even the cigarette lighter. The advantage of the circuit breaker over a fuse is that it is self resetting giving you a chance to reduce the load or limping to a safe location. Track the wiring or disconnect connections andand find what doesn't work to find out what is possibly causing the overload and/or measure the current flow on each when on with a VOM then add all together to see how close you are to an overload. If close or over you can add another breaker and split the load or if one device is very high you may want to repair or replace that device.
An ignition resistor (also called a ballast resistor) reduces the current flowing to the coil while the engine is running normally to reduce the wear and tear on the ignition system. It is bypassed by the ignition switch when in the start position to allow the coil to produce maximum spark to aid quick starting. It often looks like a coil of wire nested in a thick ceramic insulator. It should have only one wire connected at each end.
An ignition resistor (also called a ballast resistor) reduces the current flowing to the coil while the engine is running normally to reduce the wear and tear on the ignition system. It is bypassed by the ignition switch when in the start position to allow the coil to produce maximum spark to aid quick starting. It often looks like a coil of wire nested in a thick ceramic insulator. It should have only one wire connected at each end.
If when it's running and all lights and everything are bright and working
right I would replace the circuit breaker with a new one the same size.
Any parts place should have one. They do wear out. Like a 30 amp one
will kick off at 15 amps. And if it is running a 15 or 20 amp load it will do this.
Does the volt or amp gauge seem like it is carrying a big load?
Like showing it is always charging hard?
If so there may be a short somewhere. Are you running the lights or a big amp or any
power hungry stuff when it trips?
You said it did it at a stop light. Maybe a short in the brake lights?
Still I would first replace it with another. Prolly a 30 amp.
With lights and a big *** sound system that could be close to being maxed out.
Replace with the same size that is already there.
Last thought. Have ya recently added any lights or power hungry
things to the truck and this started shortly after? Only then would I
consider a breaker bigger that what is now there.
Or split the system and add another one for lights and other power hungry stuff.
right I would replace the circuit breaker with a new one the same size.
Any parts place should have one. They do wear out. Like a 30 amp one
will kick off at 15 amps. And if it is running a 15 or 20 amp load it will do this.
Does the volt or amp gauge seem like it is carrying a big load?
Like showing it is always charging hard?
If so there may be a short somewhere. Are you running the lights or a big amp or any
power hungry stuff when it trips?
You said it did it at a stop light. Maybe a short in the brake lights?
Still I would first replace it with another. Prolly a 30 amp.
With lights and a big *** sound system that could be close to being maxed out.
Replace with the same size that is already there.
Last thought. Have ya recently added any lights or power hungry
things to the truck and this started shortly after? Only then would I
consider a breaker bigger that what is now there.
Or split the system and add another one for lights and other power hungry stuff.
#14
so when i get one ,, its called a ignition coil resistor? i will check for amps ,,
thanks
hey i was thinking sense my truck has a chevy 350 motor , would that have anything to do with it ??? its has been fine , just thinking if it was set up for a different kind of motor anyway just thinking
thanks
hey i was thinking sense my truck has a chevy 350 motor , would that have anything to do with it ??? its has been fine , just thinking if it was set up for a different kind of motor anyway just thinking
#15
The first picture does show what appears to be a circuit breaker, as stated. What are those newly punch holes under the circuit breaker? Not a hole or screws punched into the breaker are there? I see a few ragged cut holes with wiring running through.. Always a place to look for chaffing. Temps rise, insulation gets thin, soft, hot wire shorts to ground.
Edit: I don't see an ignition coil resister anywhere. What is the actual configuration we're dealing with? Year, mods, etc?
Edit: I don't see an ignition coil resister anywhere. What is the actual configuration we're dealing with? Year, mods, etc?