No circuit breaker. This one happens to be a 15 AMP.



Duralast/15 Amp metal circuit breaker (CBR176) | Circuit Breaker | AutoZone.com

 

its a 53 f100 with 350 chevy motor ,, ill check about a circuit breaker.,, and this should be before the key switch, i think 1 of those wire is coming from the starter on the hot side ,, that makes sense its stops and i have nothing at all

thanks i start looking for one



7 bucks

 

And here's one for 30 amps



Wells Manufacturing/30 Amp metal circuit breaker (CBR30) | Circuit Breaker | AutoZone.com

 

so go with a 30 amp looks like i have 10 gauge wire should be good for 30 amp ?

 

NO!

Go with whatever the rating is on the existing breaker. NEVER go higher. That's a good way to set your truck on fire. If you have added something to the circuit to cause it to draw more than the current rating on the breaker, you need to separate that circuit and give it its own breaker.

 

ok got it ill check what i have,, i really haven't added anything must be getting weak

thanks

 

In my experience, circuit breakers of any kind will weaken with use, meaning, the more they break the circuit, the more likely they are to repeat, even when the draw is less than the rating. That's why when I rewired the truck, I put in a fuse panel and eliminated the breakers.

 

yeah i understand
it did it 2 times the other day we went out last night to eat and it was fine i say it was about 10 miles each way ,, and today we was out about the same and it died in the middle or road ,, i knew it was going to start didnt know how long it would take lol it was about 2 to 3 min

ill get one tomm and see i have to drive to see if it quits is the bad thing

thanks

 

Please read my previous post CAREFULLY. You asked 2 separate questions about 2 different electrical devices and got 2 separate answers that you are now rolling up into one and totally confusing yourself (and the pimply faced kid behind the counter at the parts store even more!).
1.) The circuit breaker is a SAFETY device and is speced in Amps. The higher the Amp rating the more current can pass without it tripping. It is EXACTLY like a FUSE in a fuse panel or a breaker in the breaker box in you house, except instead of needing replacement or a manual reset (as with the house breaker) when too much current passes thru it, it automatically resets itself after tripping.

2.) The ignition ballast resistor is a RESISTANCE device used to reduce power ONLY to the ignition COIL when the engine is running. That is it's only function!!! There is only one size used for 12V, so there is not a spec or rating involved with it.


I would assume your truck has been converted to 12V. Did whoever converted it not rewire the truck with a modern fuse panel?

In the picture of the breaker in your truck it is wired improperly!

There should be ONE positive powered lead (from the battery, starter solenoid or ignition switch) to the copper terminal of the breaker (usually labeled batt) and then one or more leads to the electrical devices that breaker monitors/protects attached to the silver terminal (typically labeled load). EACH wire running to a device attached to the silver terminal (if there is more than one) must be large enough to SAFELY conduct the total amperage rating of the breaker it is attached to.

FYI except for the headlight circuit, modern vehicles seldom use breakers today instead each device is wired thru it's own appropriately sized fuse in the fuse panel. If your truck does not have a modern wiring harness with a multi-circuit fuse panel, I'd highly recommend you take it to a good automotive electrical shop and have a new harness installed before you have a fire. I don't get the feeling you have the knowledge needed to install one yourself.

 

Thanks ax very good info there, , it has been converted to 12 volts and has a modern fuse panel, , i will check the screws and and see about the batt and load, , ,the one wire i did add i will remove it and add it to the fuse panel, , the other wires were there already, , , so the item i showed in the first pic is a breaker? And it should have a amp listed one it maybe, ,i will take it off and keep the wire sorted and what side they go on


Thanks again guys

 

well i got a breaker just like what i have a 30 amp , mine was a older ones ,, had to be OEM ,, anyway i think i might know what caused it ,,, about 2 or 3 months ago my thermostat went out on my electric fan and i just took it out ,, and hooked it straight up to acc .. that is the only thing i can remember ,, could be it was on border line and just got weak over time i am going to put the fan back on a stat or a relay
\
thanks

 

You really should buy another circuit breaker and use it just for the fan, which is a large load by itself. Maybe a 20 amp breaker, although some fans have a very high starting current.

 

What Ross just said. My fan draws 17.7 amps and is on a separate 20 amp breaker. You don't want that kind of current through an ignition switch.

 

yes electric fans should have their own direct power line (so they can continue to operate after the vehicle is shut off until it cools down) from the battery thru a 20 or 30A circuit breaker (check with the fan manufacturer for their recommendation) or inline fuse to a switch relay if manually switched (not recommended) or a thermostatic switched relay if automatic (recommended).
What else is wired thru that circuit breaker and where does the power come from (battery, solenoid, alternator, ignition switch, headlight switch)?
Any electrical devices/accessories you add should be run on their own circuit thru a dedicated fuse in the fuse panel, not to some random wire/source of power, That type "goober" wiring is the major reason that rewiring is needed. Look in my "making changes" gallery for pix of a typical "goober" wiring job!

 

And like Ray said, get it away from those sharp screws!!!