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Oh, that is Sweet! I really like that sound--subdued but still throaty and low. Now I'm excited to do the change. Thanks for posting that, Fordboy.
A note about the manifolds: I found that I could buy a set on ebay for $85, and that is with shipping included! How can they do that? I would pay $60 plus tax, plus core charge (can you believe that?), plus two bucks just to entry fee, from a j/y, and have to work minimum two hours to pull it. It must be a salvage yard selling them. I'm in.
k
K, I have tried to go through and read as many of the threads as I could find regarding the EFI Manifolds, (I am not ready for the swap yet as I'm still negotiating with the owner), but would like to start looking for the manifolds for a future upgrade next year. I have not been able to find a part # or model year that the EFI Manifolds came on. I think I found a couple on CL and poked around a little on e-bay, but I'm just not 100% confident as to which are the correct manifolds. I really like your idea / post about using the manifolds vs the headers, I would hate the idea of trying to replace a starter at some point and dealing with the headers.
Thank you for your time and any input is appreciated.
The EFI mannies came on all the efi engines, from 88 to the last inline model which was, and correct me if I'm wrong, in '94? Some I have seen have a bung for an o2 sensor right there where the pipes bolt on, and that will come in handy if tuning a carb with an Wide band gauge. Those are the ones I target. Installing with studs makes installation much easier. Use Mr. Gasket #260 gasket.
Walker makes a 2 into 1 pipe that is nice. I want to use the dual pipes Ford used, and go dual all the way back to the muffler with 2.25" pipe, and then jump to 2.5" single out the back.
The fact that the headers sealed in the starter was not the bothersome issue for me. It was that the heat in the engine compartment caused havoc with my carburetor and mpg. You can use an efi year starter to help with header clearance.
so i have an 84 f250 with a carb'd 300
and junk 89 bronco with bad tranny and a efi 300 would i be able to take the manifold off the efi bolt right onto my 84?
or is there more involved? if so what?
just new to idea of using efi manifolds, thanks
so i have an 84 f250 with a carb'd 300
and junk 89 bronco with bad tranny and a efi 300 would i be able to take the manifold off the efi bolt right onto my 84?
or is there more involved? if so what?
just new to idea of using efi manifolds, thanks
If you have the oem log intake, or are using an aftermarket Offenhauser DP or C, you will have to supply a heat source to the bottom of the intake. That was supplied by the oem exhaust. 99% of the guys who do the swap run engine coolant through that pocket by making something like this:
That gets bolted, with a gasket, to the bottom of your intake. Installation also entails the use of a hand grinder where the efi rubs the alternator bracket. And studs, as opposed to bolts, help with the install.
I am not the guy to ask. I haven't done my install yet. AbandonedBronco has. Do a search for valid info. There is a ton of info out there.
My old truck had headers and dual 2.5 exhaust with turbo mufflers. It had a mild flat spot in the rpm range I could never quite tune out. Not sure the exhaust was completely to blame. It sounded good down low but got ricey at 4000 rpm or so
Wow, dual 2.5" pipes. And it worked well except for the flat spot? I'm wondering if the flat spot might have been carb. I was considering dual 2.25", but thought that might be too large.
I'm looking at the high temp paint from Summit for my exh. manifolds. After I spray them I have to bake them at 400* for two hours! Interesting.
I did 2.5 because that is what the collectors were and I didn't know (at the time) much about exhaust theory. As far as the flat spot, it could have been the carb, the cam, the timing, the exhaust, or maybe the intake. It was ridiculous with the holley 390 on it, but with the 2150 it was much better. Still, in the end, I never could completely eliminate it.
Now, for exhaust, I wouldn't recommend dual 2.5s but I can't say that it was that bad on the engine.
Heya K,
Totally missed this conversation!
Hopefully getting rid of that header heat will resolve some issues. I'll be curious to hear how it goes.
When I got my '84, it had headers on it. I didn't want to deal with them and sold them off and put on EFI manifolds. The setup it came with was a split header design and each one exited under the cab with a dinky cherry bomb muffler. It was so loud I couldn't start it up until after quiet hours in the neighborhood. I stripped it all off, put on a full 2.5" exhaust for the full length of the Bronco, added a cat, and a full sized muffler. It was whisper quiet.
I barely noticed a performance difference. There was definitely a difference in the way it drove, but it was so subtle I had forgotten what it was in just a few days of driving.
I bought a set of dorman efi manifolds for mine. Have not installed them yet and being here in the heat of texas don't know if I will bother with the intake manifold heating device.
I did paint mine with VHT flamethrower paint and cured them in a gas grill turned into an oven of sorts (if you try this, make sure you clean out your grease trap, etc. prior to the 400 degree stage - I didn't, I now have black, not grey manifolds).
I paid about $130 for my set. Have seen efi manifolds on ebay all over the place in price and some selling each part separately. Mine does have the bunge for a sensor. It's sealed.
Wow yall totally saved my butt on waisting money and installing headers on mine. I have a local yard that has tons of the efi manifold I6. And now I am so going for this upgrade as its a cheap bolt on hp boost.
I do plan on doing the offenhouser upgrade later but I want to do the cam carb intake combo.
For now Im going for the efi manifolds and chevy c10 rocker arms. BTW F-250 restorer do you have the thread on that I saw you in the faq sticky but I cant find the thread to know for sure if my engine will handle the rockers.
Nope, I'm sorry but I don't have a link for the rocker thread. I'm a big believer, after nearly sucking a valve, of keeping the valve-rocker-p.rod geometry oem as possible. Extra lift at the valve means more psi at the valve and everywhere else, so think about changing from push in studs to screw ins.
AB--Thanks for chiming in. I hope a cold/cool air air cleaner and the efi resolve certain issues too. I'm tossing around the diameter of the pipe on the exhaust. Single 2.5" may win out due to ease of install, and b/c it is larger than the single 2.25" I now have, but would love dual pipes, but two pipes multiply the labor several times. (I love to weld with gas--old school.)
you DO NOT have to remove the headman longtube headers to remove the starter. I replaced many starters with my headers on. Simply unbolt the starter and it will drop between the header and the pan. Then just use a pry bar to flex the headers out enough for it to drop. Replaced 3 cheap reman starters like that.
However, I still would not recommend the headman headers, they're cheaply built and fit poorly. I had one on for a little over a year and found many cracks and a large bend where it hit the cross member.
Have Clifford shortys now and they fit great. More expensive than the efi manifolds but they supposedly offer more power. They also give the starter room as the manifolds would.
you DO NOT have to remove the headman longtube headers to remove the starter. I replaced many starters with my headers on. Simply unbolt the starter and it will drop between the header and the pan. Then just use a pry bar to flex the headers out enough for it to drop. Replaced 3 cheap reman starters like that.
However, I still would not recommend the headman headers, they're cheaply built and fit poorly. I had one on for a little over a year and found many cracks and a large bend where it hit the cross member.
Have Clifford shortys now and they fit great. More expensive than the efi manifolds but they supposedly offer more power. They also give the starter room as the manifolds would.
Thanks for posting that! I had no idea. Excellent bit of info for the archives.
However, issues with the starter is not my only concern. I am also troubled by the heat. It has been an issue with a Summit Carb, and an Autolite 4100. I'm certain it didn't do mpg any favors with either carb. At this point I'm going with dual 2.25" to the muffler, and out with a 2.50" single, or possibly dual 2.25's out the back.
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