Replacement rear end
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Replacement rear end
I want to get a rear end from a pick a part yard and I'm not sure exactly what I need.
What I know is what's on my truck now is an 8.8 with 355 gears on a 92 F150. Do I need to know the spline count or brake size if I were to get a replacement?
How do I identify this type of rear end? It's a unique bolt pattern, any pics of the different ones?
What I know is what's on my truck now is an 8.8 with 355 gears on a 92 F150. Do I need to know the spline count or brake size if I were to get a replacement?
How do I identify this type of rear end? It's a unique bolt pattern, any pics of the different ones?
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,408
Likes: 5
From: Parkesburg PA
Look for axle code 19 or H9 and verify it with the tag on the rear 3_55 or 3L55 respectively. H9 is the limited slip, but will likely need to be rebuilt. It can be done without disturbing the gears. Last step would be to pull the cover and inspect.
You'll need one with the RABS sensor, so 87-96 IIRC.
You'll need one with the RABS sensor, so 87-96 IIRC.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,507
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From: Oregon
For a direct bolt in he will need a '90+ axle. From personal experience the pre-'90 axles use a yoke on the pinion and the '90+ use a flange.
I bought an '89 axle from a F150 that I was going to rebuild and was unaware of this difference at the time. When I crawled under my truck to look at the sway bar mount's I noticed they were different.
I bought an '89 axle from a F150 that I was going to rebuild and was unaware of this difference at the time. When I crawled under my truck to look at the sway bar mount's I noticed they were different.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,304
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From: boonville ny
For a direct bolt in he will need a '90+ axle. From personal experience the pre-'90 axles use a yoke on the pinion and the '90+ use a flange. I bought an '89 axle from a F150 that I was going to rebuild and was unaware of this difference at the time. When I crawled under my truck to look at the sway bar mount's I noticed they were different.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Oregon
Yes, but you can't just unbolt one and bolt another on. You undo the pinion nut and you loose all pre-load. When this happens the carrier has to come out so the pinion can be removed and a new crush sleeve installed. Then you have to set the pre-load and reassemble the axle.
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I want to get a rear end from a pick a part yard and I'm not sure exactly what I need.
What I know is what's on my truck now is an 8.8 with 355 gears on a 92 F150. Do I need to know the spline count or brake size if I were to get a replacement?
How do I identify this type of rear end? It's a unique bolt pattern, any pics of the different ones?
What I know is what's on my truck now is an 8.8 with 355 gears on a 92 F150. Do I need to know the spline count or brake size if I were to get a replacement?
How do I identify this type of rear end? It's a unique bolt pattern, any pics of the different ones?
My first thought was to go to the pick a part yard and get a rear end that matches my specs, but since I will be replacing the carrier, does it matter what rear end I get as long as it's an 8.8?
For something with a lot of power but is also a daily driver, what type of diff carrier would I want to use? I was reading and it seems like a Detroit Locker would be good but I am looking for input.
Last, since I will be pulling a whole rear end, is there an 8.8 rear end I could pull from a vehicle (explorer maybe) that would have disc brakes and not drum? I don't know that I would ever buy a conversion kit to make this change but if I can pull one that will work for my truck that already has disc brakes, that would be the way to go.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2004
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From: Dallas, TX, USA
The bleeder screw can't strip out the backing plate. It's part of the wheel cylinder and it's easily replaced.
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That will save me a lot of work now. Would still like to know about the items I asked about (carrier type, disc brakes) so I can plan my work.
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,062
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From: Dallas, TX, USA
Courtesy of RockAuto's web site, this is your left wheel cylinder:
And this is your right wheel cylinder:
Please note the bleeder screw. Yes, when installed it kind of looks like part of the backing plate especially if it's been in there a while, but I assure you it isn't.
If the bleeder screw stripped out, I suggest using heat and a good penetrating lubricant like Kroil or SeaFoam DeepCreep (latter is available at VatoZone and Walmart) to get the brake line fitting out of the wheel cylinder and the wheel cylinder mounting bolts out of the backing plate. That way you don't make the job worse for yourself.
That will save me a lot of work now. Would still like to know about the items I asked about (carrier type, disc brakes) so I can plan my work.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,789
Likes: 1,753
From: Kentucky
damn, I am glad you told me that. I hadn't found anything on the internet that said I could just replace that and I would be good.
That will save me a lot of work now. Would still like to know about the items I asked about (carrier type, disc brakes) so I can plan my work.
That will save me a lot of work now. Would still like to know about the items I asked about (carrier type, disc brakes) so I can plan my work.
If you want more braking power consider upgrading the front calipers: Factory Big Brake Kit
The locker vs. limited slip vs. Truetrac-style differentials is argued every few weeks. Everyone has their own input/personal experience/opinion.
A string of recent threads: Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Search Results
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Posting Guru
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Technically, you replace the wheel cylinder. But that's cheap enough. It's still not the backing plate, though.
Courtesy of RockAuto's web site, this is your left wheel cylinder:
And this is your right wheel cylinder:
Please note the bleeder screw. Yes, when installed it kind of looks like part of the backing plate especially if it's been in there a while, but I assure you it isn't.
If the bleeder screw stripped out, I suggest using heat and a good penetrating lubricant like Kroil or SeaFoam DeepCreep (latter is available at VatoZone and Walmart) to get the brake line fitting out of the wheel cylinder and the wheel cylinder mounting bolts out of the backing plate. That way you don't make the job worse for yourself.
*That* I can't help you with, but perhaps someone else here can.
Courtesy of RockAuto's web site, this is your left wheel cylinder:
And this is your right wheel cylinder:
Please note the bleeder screw. Yes, when installed it kind of looks like part of the backing plate especially if it's been in there a while, but I assure you it isn't.
If the bleeder screw stripped out, I suggest using heat and a good penetrating lubricant like Kroil or SeaFoam DeepCreep (latter is available at VatoZone and Walmart) to get the brake line fitting out of the wheel cylinder and the wheel cylinder mounting bolts out of the backing plate. That way you don't make the job worse for yourself.
*That* I can't help you with, but perhaps someone else here can.
and Thanks rla2005
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Posting Guru
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There is no bolt-in disk brake upgrade for this vintage truck. The Explorer 8.8" is too narrow IIRC.
If you want more braking power consider upgrading the front calipers: Factory Big Brake Kit
The locker vs. limited slip vs. Truetrac-style differentials is argued every few weeks. Everyone has their own input/personal experience/opinion.
A string of recent threads: Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Search Results
If you want more braking power consider upgrading the front calipers: Factory Big Brake Kit
The locker vs. limited slip vs. Truetrac-style differentials is argued every few weeks. Everyone has their own input/personal experience/opinion.
A string of recent threads: Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Search Results
also, since everyone has a different opinion about a rear end (left that open for interpretation), what do you think about a Detroit Locker? from what I have read it seems like it'll do but I've heard it might be too noisy?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kentucky
how much bigger are those brakes than what I have now? I've never measured my rotors. I'm wondering if doing that work is worth it?
also, since everyone has a different opinion about a rear end (left that open for interpretation), what do you think about a Detroit Locker? from what I have read it seems like it'll do but I've heard it might be too noisy?
also, since everyone has a different opinion about a rear end (left that open for interpretation), what do you think about a Detroit Locker? from what I have read it seems like it'll do but I've heard it might be too noisy?
Personally I am not a fan of a locker on a street driven vehicle. Off-road or drag racing they are very well suited to the job. I have had great experience with the factory TracLoc limited slip differential in my trucks over the years both on the street and mild off-roading. I have setup a few to have more "grip" before biasing torque from one side or the other. I have always been a fan of the TrueTrac/Gleason style limited slip but never had the need to pony up the money for one.
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E150 rotors are 12.83" vs. 11.71" for the stock F150 rotor. I know several of the Lightning guys have gone that route. If I was going to do this I would add in a hydro-boost brake system and get rid of the vacuum booster. Go big or go home. Most of the braking comes from the front anyway.
Personally I am not a fan of a locker on a street driven vehicle. Off-road or drag racing they are very well suited to the job. I have had great experience with the factory TracLoc limited slip differential in my trucks over the years both on the street and mild off-roading. I have setup a few to have more "grip" before biasing torque from one side or the other. I have always been a fan of the TrueTrac/Gleason style limited slip but never had the need to pony up the money for one.
Personally I am not a fan of a locker on a street driven vehicle. Off-road or drag racing they are very well suited to the job. I have had great experience with the factory TracLoc limited slip differential in my trucks over the years both on the street and mild off-roading. I have setup a few to have more "grip" before biasing torque from one side or the other. I have always been a fan of the TrueTrac/Gleason style limited slip but never had the need to pony up the money for one.
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