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Morning fellas.. I ordered a TS with it's canned tunes last time home and when went to install after all the terminal cleaning (tho I didn't have to do much, they were relatively clean from my existing chip) I got the wait to start light perminently staying on and no starting on any of the settings. I went through and repeated the install process 3-4 times, each time cleaning a little more. The truck fired and ran on a couple of the settings but died on others, so I contacted the vender and he said if I can get it running on one setting let it run for 25 minutes and it'll relearn the PCM.. I kinda thought this was BS so I called TS and the tech rep told me contrary to popular belief I need to take the contacts down till I see the copper, that's the way their chips work best.. I'm at work again for another week and prior to diving into this again I wanted to hear a general consensus on what your experiences have been with these installs. Any and all feedback I appreciate.. Have a good day guys! Thanks.
What does it do without the chip? Knowing this will determine whether it's simply a faulty chip or bad connection, or if the PCM has somehow been damaged/corrupted by the procedure.
I have to add my 02 on this. I don't have a chip and have never seen one or installed one in our trucks, but I have some experience with pc boards. Copper should not be exposed on pc boards for a reliable connection, it is corrosive an will cause failure sooner or later. I think copper should make a satisfactory connection initially though but will fail later. My conclusion would be most likely board failure due to component failure possibly from handling. The vendors never mention the need for esd (electro static discarge) protection when installing. It is a common necessary practice in the of manufacturing or any handling during assembly process. Here is a link that relates to copper exposure. Corrosion Resistance of Copper-Coated Contacts
I have to add my 02 on this. I don't have a chip and have never seen one or installed one in our trucks, but I have some experience with pc boards. Copper should not be exposed on pc boards for a reliable connection, it is corrosive an will cause failure sooner or later. I think copper should make a satisfactory connection initially though but will fail later. My conclusion would be most likely board failure due to component failure possibly from handling. The vendors never mention the need for esd (electro static discarge) protection when installing. It is a common necessary practice in the of manufacturing or any handling during assembly process. Here is a link that relates to copper exposure. Corrosion Resistance of Copper-Coated Contacts
Thanks Rich, I know pretty much what your talking about and I agree there should be something in the instructions regarding static discharge..
I wish I could just figure out a way to splay the female ends in on the chip to make it tighter.. I've tried with marginal sucess in my ATS chip; problem is it's sooo small in there almost like you need to bend a needle to a 90 and work with that.. Maybe I'll try that route.. Just sucks.. I wish this went into the OBD connection insted... Probably not possible tho for on the fly adjustments...
In the venders defense I will add that he will exchange it if we get that far, so I'm not S.O.L. quite yet.. I just wanted to do a little homework before making my next move...
Question: now that I have it do you suppose I should send it off and have some custom burns done? Or.. If it is damaged is it permanently damaged? I suppose whoever I choose would just send it back to me if it was smoked then I'd just send it back to the ebay seller for an exchange...
I would send it back for exchange before sending it anywhere else, that could void the offer of exchange. I would also mark the board to verify you don't get the same board back. a little dot with a marker on the edge of the board would work
Will I have to scrape something off to expose the connections or is it supposed to just plug right in? I am a little worried now with this story. Unfortunately, this truck is my daily driver at the moment.
Will I have to scrape something off to expose the connections or is it supposed to just plug right in? I am a little worried now with this story. Unfortunately, this truck is my daily driver at the moment.
When I put the cip in the 96 C&C truck, I took a Q-tip and dipped it in the wife's fingernail polish remover, then scrubbed the contacts in the PCM. Then I scraped the contacts with my pocket knife, and a clear coating came off the contacts. I then scrubbed the contacts again with the dipped Q-tip.
When I put the cip in the 96 C&C truck, I took a Q-tip and dipped it in the wife's fingernail polish remover, then scrubbed the contacts in the PCM. Then I scraped the contacts with my pocket knife, and a clear coating came off the contacts. I then scrubbed the contacts again with the dipped Q-tip.
Good to know, thanks. It sounds like you just cleaned them really well? On a side note, I can't wait to finally have a little more power and better shift points!
I would send it back for exchange before sending it anywhere else, that could void the offer of exchange. I would also mark the board to verify you don't get the same board back. a little dot with a marker on the edge of the board would work
I made that mistake with my dually, rubbed to much into the copper. I had an expert (don't know if he wants me to mention names) re tin mine and now it works great. All you need is the plastic coating off, I like Tom's method of doing that. I can't believe that TS told you that Corey.
I made that mistake with my dually, rubbed to much into the copper. I had an expert (don't know if he wants me to mention names) re tin mine and now it works great. All you need is the plastic coating off, I like Tom's method of doing that. I can't believe that TS told you that Corey.
I know... I'm skeptical now.. I guess I'll splay the female plug on the chip in a little and see if that helps... If not it's going back...
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