Ok i bought some repo interior light door switches , worked great for a few months then pow drivers side exploded into pieces . about a month later pass side does same . so I think crappy repo part . I find some very nice old FORD ones . lasted about 6 months and pow they fall to pieces too .
is this common ? or is there a metal replacement ?

thanks

 

I'd surf the salvage yards for metal-bodied plungers secured with a very slim nut. For the life of me I cannot remember what vehicle had them.

 

It's not common according to what I've seen. Or sold in the past. I have one of each in my truck. one NOS FORD and one aftermarket. Both been there over a year. You got the saggy door slamin' thang goin' on there?

 

THANKS GUYS , doors are tight and wiggle free and gaps look factory correct. so I don't think anything has been replaced . I have some metal plunger momentary switches at my work , I might try adapting them to work . I'd prefer original but also need something that will last .

 

Similar problem here.

I think it has to do with whether the switch is completely inserted into the switch connector. Possibly, it could happen if the connector's retainers are cracked or broken. The switch seems to need the connector to hold the switch parts together, or else the pressure from the door simply pushes the parts of the switch apart. When that happens, some of the switch parts fall into the fender well and won't come back out.

I think DC has replacement connectors (probably intended for Mustangs, but also usable in trucks). The intended approach is to break away the old plastic and then insert the old male pins into the new plastic connector shell. If you take this approach, break the plastic very carefully so you don't damage the pins. I haven't been able to find a replacement for those pins. Once the connector shell is replaced, you can set the switch into it, etc.

DO NOT put a new switch into the mounting bracket without securing the switch connector to it... as soon as you close the door, you'll probably need to buy a replacement for the unsecured switch.

I would very much like to find the correct type of pin for replacement. I would also like to find the appropriate pin-crimping tool and the appropriate insertion/extraction tool. At this point, I've been interrogating the repro and custom wiring companies that advertise in Hemmings' Motor News. So far, I've had no luck.

 

I've replaced my door jam light switch a few times over the yrs with nicer ones from pnp that were a little better then what mind were. Not because they broke apart but the push button got pretty sloppy & loose. But, I've found by lubing the tip and button really extents the life.

What, I've noticed is the door makes contact on an angle pushing it to one side until door is about 2/3rds closed. This is where the Vaseline lube helps ease the stress on the button being pushed in.

I've got 2 switches in each door jam one for my alarm system.

A little Vaseline last a long time unless you using dusty dirt roads then apply as needed. Dab a little on the "door" where the push button makes contact with the door.
Orich

 

Well if you're going the adaptor route Dents had the little metal ones Hio referenced. But they are TOTALLY different. On Dents they screwed directly in to the sheetmetal door opening. The hole in the bracket that holds a Bump switch is way too big for a Dent switch to mount in to. The button has less than 1/2 the travel that a Bump switch has. And the wiring pigtail for the Dent switch is totall different.

 

[quote=Thipdar;14386641]Similar problem here.

THANKS that totally makes sense as both my sockets have no retainers left .

 

THAT's where I seen 'em! .. shows ya I need to drive my '73 a whole lot more but gotta tighten up the steering with a Redhead unit before doing so. It's alot of work and kinda hairy keeping the ol' girl driving straight.

As far as the Bump hole being too big - drill baby, drill (and adapt).

Btw, I seem to recall the Bump's driver and passenger door switches are side-specific.

 

I don't think so... pretty sure the switch switches are more generic than that.

 

The driver's has one more pin than the passenger side...usimg my 70 as reference.

 

BUMP HAS SAME SWITCH ON BOTH SIDES 2 PINS

 

Well, lemme share my experience.. i robbed a passenger-side plunger for the driver-side due to its corrosion. It wouldn't work cuz of the pin configuration.

 

2x ~~Same same here

Orich

 

1980/89 Lincoln Town Car - 1983/86 Cougar/Thunderbird - 1986/95 Taurus/Sable and etc.