Anybody on here tried this stuff? I'm leaning toward using this and top it with their clear coat with anti-skid granules. Opinions or comments welcome. Thanks, Steve

 

I helped a friend do his garage floor. Some things to keep in mind -

The floor must be absolutely clean. If there is ANYTHING on the floor, particularly oil the stuff wont stick.

It pays to etch the concrete with muriatic acid first.

The floor must be completely dry before you begin.

You have to hope the person that built the garage did a proper job of base prep before the slab was poured. Any moisture coming up through the slab (and I'm talking moisture not visible water) will lift the finish right off.

Don't forget, just because it's called epoxy doesn't mean it wont scratch. Don't go using a creeper with metal wheels. Ask me how I know.

Although I haven't seen it in his application, I've heard that parking a car on a coated floor when the tires are hot can cause pull-off.

I have to admit it can look terrific but my garage is my shop and I find a bare concrete floor may not look as good but I don't cringe if I drop a hammer - unless it's on my foot.

 

I did my floor about 5 years ago. I live in Bakersfield Ca where it gets pretty hot during the summer- 120* occasionally and my tires never lifted my floor. Maybe that's because I paid strict attention to the instructions.
If I had to do it again I would not put the paint chips down. I would just leave it plain light grey. I learned soon that whenever I dropped a small part it would disappear on that speckled floor.
I thought it would be hard as nails but it is not. As Pup&duck said it scratches easily. I use a lathe & a mill in my garage and the floor in front of the machines is dull from scratches, walking on the metal chips.
I did not use the Valspar brand but i did use a name brand. Don't remember which though.
All in all though I like the floor. Looks real nice when I clean it.

 

Make sure you use the non-skid, it is slick without it. How old is the garage floor? The reason I ask is that you have to really make sure you clean it with the stuff in the kit really well, oil residue, armor all, etc. will cause it to cure incorrectly in those spots and bubble. I finally got mine right, but I didn't pay too much attention to the directions at first, cost me extra time and money...

 

Thanks for the replies and tips guys. The garage is brand new concrete (24 X 30) This was my Offshore retirement present to myself. Needed a better place to park the 1954 F-100 instead of my shop. Now I can use my shop for what it was intended. I plan to use the non-skid additive also. I'll let y'all know how it turns out! Later, Steve

 

Being your floor is brand new, shouldn't be any issues. Mine was 15 years old, of course over time I've spilled gas, oil and God knows what else and those are the areas I had issues with. Once I got the bad spots fixed, we haven't had any issues, it hasn't peeled or anything. The wife didn't like the "color" of the non skid, so it can be slick if it's wet. You are from Foxworh? I'm originally from Morgantown myself...

 

WMHS Graduate (long, long time ago) Still live south of Foxworth. Grew up trying to wear out all the red clay @ Red Bluff. Just retired from Shell Offshore. Now it's time to play!! Thanks for the heads up. Steve

 

Graduated WMHS myself, work for Baker Hughes, running fishing tools, assigned to Shell oddly enough. Enjoy the retirement! I'll get there one of these days!

 

Hi Mate,
The Epoxy Garage Floor Coating according to me is the excellent coating to try. Believe me, they are the best! I personally have coated these epoxy flooring on my garage and had wonderful experience. In comparison to other flooring available in market, these are the best known.

 

as an fyi...Sherwin Williams & Dunn Edwards both make a coating specifically for industrial operations.....it is hard as nails and lasts in a typically garage setting. I plan on using this for my patio...it runs about $100 a gallon.

 

I did my floor using a two part epoxy. Came from armour garage, in New Jersey I think? They have several different styles. Not cheap but has a guarantee as well. They have neat photos as fire departments have used their products. Did not use the flakes, only the grit for. Non skid. Did it in a weekend, floor was new, and I did etch it?

 

After "experimenting" with the Sherwin Williams coating on my front porch...which has held up excellent for 2 years, I did my patio a couple of weeks ago. There are a couple of things that I really like about their product...

1) it is water based so clean-up is easy
2) they will tint it to any color you want
3) surface prep is a pressure washer, followed by a primer & 2 coats of the product.

This is specifically what I used:

ARMORSEAL TREAD-PLEX is a general purpose, interior/ exterior, VOC compliant, 100% acrylic, low odor, waterborne floor coating. This dries rapidly to a tough, alkali resistant finish which will withstand hard wear, abrasion, grease, oils, and cleaning equipment.
•One component
•Water clean up
•Fast dry
•Slip resistant properties
•Abrasion resistant

Recommended Usage

For use over prepared concrete and wood floors, steps, stairwells, aisleways, or previously painted floor surfaces in sound condition.
•Laboratories
•Light assembly and production areas
•Hospitals
•Industrial/commercial office areas
•Helipads
•Not recommended for areas subject to hot tire pickup
•Meets ADA requirements for Slip Resistance for floors
•Suitable for use in USDA inspected facilities

They have a specific product for "Hot Tires", but I am very impressed with the ease of application & product quality.

 

I've never used Valspar floor coating. I prefer their house paint over anything in the same price range. Great coverage, easy cleanup & it last well

 

I've used the Sherwin Williams product on two different garage floors and was very pleased with the results and durability. Perhaps they have changed formulas, but the one I used was certainly not water soluble. It would only clean up with something like methyl-ethyl-death or equivalent. Proper prep is the key and the only way I found to damage it was to drop something heavy on the floor or some large pieces of hot slag. I never found an automotive fluid that could damage it.


Adam

 

Current situation............. I did my patio and it is a disaster. Concrete was poured about 15 years ago, no coating ever applied, I waited until the weather was exactly within the specs, pressure washed, allowed to dry for 3 days, using dry air, surface clean the patio, applied primer then 2 coats of color...everything was great, allowed to cure for 10 days...... 4 months later, 1st rain....spotted delamination......called tech support, no help. Sanded, prepped & reapplied. About 2 months later, another rain..... large areas of delamination.......fought this for 1 years. SW Tech support worthless. SW sends an inspector 3 months ago.....takes samples to send to lab. Is aware that a similar issue existed with Las Vegas DOT...most likely same batch. Lab report verifies proper prep & application but also states there was a previous sealer applied to concrete (false). Inspector also disagrees with report. With pics, we begin to attempt to remove remaining product....that which is not exposed to direct sunlight is almost impossible to remove, SW strippers turn product to gum....and will not remove. Tech support has no answers. using my acetylene torch and water, must is removable cleanly by steaming but it's very time consuming....about 18 hours to remove a 4' x 10' area on my knees. Inspector concurs with findings and agrees "Dustless blasting" is the only way to effectively remove the product from surface.

SW official position....claim rejected. We are proceeding to small claims court as we speak....all I asked for in writing is the to be reimbursed for the dustless blasting (firm price in writing of $500) and reimbursement of product...about $250. All rejected.