Will do, thanks. I'm needing to get my alt back together and it's not going so good. I should have some sort of report in the next couple of days. Thanks again fellas!

 

What problem are you having getting the alternator back together? If it is the brushes, there is usually a hole in the insulator that allows you to insert the brush over the spring, then insert a bent paperclip or wire through the hole to hold the brushes in place while you slide the armature in (or at least they used to - it's been a while since I had one apart). Then you pull the wire out and the brushes engage the armature.

 

Right you are dmack! How did I miss that? I knew there had to be a way. I'll take it in to work today in hopes of working on it at lunch or something. Thanks, I love this forum!

 

Well fellas, HE'S ALIVE! Old George took his first trip to the gas station in LONG time. Many thanks to you guys! He runs great, drives, handles, and stops great as well. The tranny takes a bit to get used to and it may need adjusted, but it shifts fine. It grinds though, even when I double clutch it. Here's the final wiring configuration



for anyone who may be wondering.

 

Now for the bad news:

I started it several times throughout the day, and I was going to run the gas out of the carb (long story, but it's leaking from the plunger thing inside). I bought a rebuild kit but it wasn't quite what I needed. In any case, I decided to see if it would crank with the key in the off position like you guys were talking about. I hit the key a couple of times and it did crank. I thought I'd hit it one more time long enough to see if it actually had spark for some reason but all I got was a click. Not like a battery is dead click though. I charged it for a while and tried again, no luck. I tried to jump from the positive side of the solenoid to the small post in the middle that is connected to my push button and all I got was the same click with some spark. The connection on the starter from the solenoid is about the only one I haven't taken apart and cleaned yet, but it was starting fine before (I'll do it tomorrow). It's amazing how much faster that 6v starter turns with a 12v system. I've read about it being harder on them since they turn twice as fast, but I haven't really cranked it much at all. It's been starting fine. I'm sure I'll figure it out, but if you guys have suggestions I'm all ears.
Also, when it is starting again I'd like to make sure the alternator is actually charging the battery. I've always wanted to know how to use one of these:
But I've always been hesitant because I don't have a clue what all those numbers mean. I thought maybe it would have some decent instructions....... not so much. Anyone wanna give me a run down of what's what. Or just what to do in order to check alt/batt/charging?

Thanks a ton for all your help/input! My boys and I really appreciate it and hope to return the favor soon.

 

Here's a brief tutorial on the meter.

Plug the black lead into the lower hole marked COM. Plug the red lead into the middle hole marked V (volts) omega symbol (ohms) mA (milliamps).

Use the top right scale for measuring AC voltage (750 - 200) like what's in your wall outlets.

Use the top left scale for measuring DC voltage (1000 - 200 - 20) like your battery or alternator output.

Use the lower left scale for measuring continuity to see if something is shorted or open or has a resistance (ohms).

ALWAYS set the scale to a number higher than what you think the reading will be. So for your 12 volt system, set the scale to the upper left on 20. You want to use the black lead on negative and the red lead on positive for DC circuits. If you have them reversed, your reading will show a minus sign in front of the reading and does not hurt a thing.


Here's a tutorial online...

 

Follow Joe's instructions and check the battery voltage with the engine off - should be around 12.5volts. Then check it with the engine running - should be 13.5-15.4volts or so. Sometimes they won't charge at idle, so you may have to rev the engine up a bit.

On the non-start, double check your connections, especially the grounds. Also check the wires for blisters that may indicate a melted section.

BTW - congrats on getting it on the road. Great feeling isn't it?

 

Thanks Joe and dmack! That helps a lot and I'll tear into it when I have a minute and let you guys know. Have a good one.

 

Well, thanks again for the help guys. I went through a series of tests using my new found toy, and a couple of old school tricks, and figured out that the brand new solenoid went bad already. I threw on the old one which looked just like the new 12v and it cranked. It didn't sound the greatest (had that chatter similar to a dead battery, but the battery is fully charged) but it did crank. I'm not sure if that was a 6v or 12v solenoid. A PO had installed a 12v coil and I wondered if the solenoid was 12v as well. Either way it's cranking now and I'll hit Napa up and get a new one I suppose.

You guys are great,and so are these trucks!

 

It almost sounds like you have a ground problem. Check the engine to body ground strap (see part 14303 in the picture below). I'm assuming that your battery to engine wire, #14301, is making good connections on both ends.

 

Thanks Pete! I took a look and cleaned the strap up a bit but it does seem inadequate for the job (not original for sure). I will replace it soon. In the mean time I took jumper cables and tried to use those in lieu of that ground strap but it still makes that horrible chatter when trying to start. I think it's the solenoid. I should have a new one in a couple of days and I'll keep you guys posted. My tail lights are now working thanks to some new wire but I haven't figured out why the break lights aren't working. I suspect that it's the connector on the back of the MC. One thing at a time.........

 

Hey Sere,
You are in the shake down phase of your old truck. You drive it a bit & listen & feel for things & you fix them one by one. It's a good thing - be patient & take your time. We've been driving our '50 for several years now & I'm still finding stuff - Re-doing the emergency brake system this weekend - I just didn't like how it sounded/worked.

Looking good up there in Alaska!

Ben in Austin (From San Francisco this week)
1950 F1

 

I hear that Ben. That's half the fun right? I'll also be doing my emergency brake very soon as it is ceased up and only runs part of the way back. I have a 9" under it that a PO had installed and I think they just never hooked it up after the install. I won't drive it much until it's fixed so I don't lose my brakes all together. If you think about taking some photos of how it connects to the rear brakes please share them as I have never messed with one before. Also, where did you get your cable? I do want to make use of our short summers up here though and keep him alive until winter (which will be late Sept/earlyOct-ish). Have fun in San Fran!

 

The real question is why are the solenoids going bad? The answer could be that poor ground strap. I would make sure that you replace it before you install a new solenoid and maybe it burns out too.

Good luck.

 

If the connector is OK it is probably the switch. They get gummed up. Replacements are not expensive. I don't know if anyone had any luck cleaning one as they are sealed units.