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Old May 23, 2014 | 04:19 PM
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aaaarrrrggggghhhhh

Third spark plug spit out second this month. 2001 5.4 is it to late to go back and tourqe the rest of them down to keep the rest from popping out. When I changed them last year I had never heard of them popping out
Thanks
 
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Old May 24, 2014 | 06:48 AM
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Its never too late or too early to check torque on plugs in a Modular Motor.

Tell us how you installed the current set? What brand, what torque, anti-seize etc etc?
 
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Old May 24, 2014 | 07:28 AM
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They were bosh platnum. I used never seize and never thought to use any of the three different torque wrenches in my toolbox. :-(
 
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Old May 24, 2014 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by thewestie
[i]They were bosh platnum. I used never seize and never thought to use any of the three different torque wrenches in my toolbox. :-(
While I can't (yet) re-find a blurb I once read about Motor Craft plugs having a slightly different thread profile than most any other plug brand, one that obviously will more exactly fit the Modular Motor heads.

IF that's true AND add in the MM ECM loves Motor Craft plugs it almost becomes mandatory to use them in our motors. Even if it's not 100% true as I recall that blurb the fact the ECM is most happy with them only adds to the reasons why they're a good idea.

I posted this a short while ago for another newbie to plug changes in these engines:

-Used nothing but Motor Craft plugs! While Autolite makes a perfectly acceptable alternative MC are close by, cheap enough to buy locally.

-NEVER let them run longer than 50-60K miles--EVER! Regardless the BS spread how they're good for 100K miles as consumable items they have a finite life.

-Use nickel-based anti-seize on plug threads---there is no down side.

-Torque with a known good wrench set to 21-23 ft/lbs. At first click or indication torque is reached STOP! FWIW advice about the torque wrench itself: range is important. I use a 5-75 ft/lbs Wright Tool so at 21-23 ft/lbs it will work well given the standard tolerances of the click type torque wrenches.

The issue of spitting or blown plugs seems to originate more from improper installation rather than any huge defect in the head or its design. Yes it seems as though the puny 3 threads per hole contacting the plug body is the real problem and while its highly inconvenient when it happens to one of us its just not that common when measured against the number of Modular Motors in use.

It happens, it sucks (or "blows" in this case ) but with a bit of caution and care you're not likely to be the root cause of subsequent incidents, if they ever occur.

HTH

PS: This thread tends to shred a lot of thoughts about torque and anti-seize---enjoy
: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...ead-heads.html
 
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Old May 24, 2014 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by thewestie
They were bosh platnum. I used never seize and never thought to use any of the three different torque wrenches in my toolbox. :-(
Both of these contributed to your problems. The threads should be clean and dry, anti-seize is a bad idea because it multiplies the clamping force. Either you overtorqued them and weakened the threads, which can be done at the factory specified torque if you add anti-seize, or they were too loose and the lubricated threads helped them back out.

Originally Posted by JWA
While I can't (yet) re-find a blurb I once read about Motor Craft plugs having a slightly different thread profile than most any other plug brand, one that obviously will more exactly fit the Modular Motor heads.

IF that's true AND add in the MM ECM loves Motor Craft plugs it almost becomes mandatory to use them in our motors. Even if it's not 100% true as I recall that blurb the fact the ECM is most happy with them only adds to the reasons why they're a good idea.

I posted this a short while ago for another newbie to plug changes in these engines:
The "ONLY use Motorcraft plugs" myth seems to never die. I put Bosch plugs in my V10 a couple of years ago, and my 4.6L engine is currently running Autolites. Both ran fantastic. Neither the PCM nor the coils give a hoot which brand of plug is installed in the head. The two of them are responsible for delivering a high voltage pulse to the plug at the right time; the PCM has no clue what happens after that.
 
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Old May 24, 2014 | 06:28 PM
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So does this mean I'm doomed to them all spitting out. Or can I loosen them up and torque at 25 lbs ?
 
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Old May 24, 2014 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by thewestie
So does this mean I'm doomed to them all spitting out. Or can I loosen them up and torque at 25 lbs ?
The factory spec is 12-14 ft-lbs with clean, dry threads. I would clean as much of the anti-seize off as you can and retorque them all to 14. I don't think you're doomed to them all spitting out, but definitely time to take some corrective action!
 
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Old May 24, 2014 | 06:33 PM
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Here's some more info:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf
 
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Old May 25, 2014 | 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom
The "ONLY use Motorcraft plugs" myth seems to never die. I put Bosch plugs in my V10 a couple of years ago, and my 4.6L engine is currently running Autolites. Both ran fantastic. Neither the PCM nor the coils give a hoot which brand of plug is installed in the head. The two of them are responsible for delivering a high voltage pulse to the plug at the right time; the PCM has no clue what happens after that.
I can't disagree Motor Craft only is a myth but in my case they're been exactly what I wanted; trouble free over their life. While certainly not scientific proof reading a bit here in the Modular Motors forums Motor Craft has consistently preformed well for most everyone using them. This has been my experience too.

Originally Posted by Tom
Interesting article but it seems to focus on over tightening which isn't the cause or fault of anti-seize. Proper factory spec torque of 12-14 ft/lbs dry threads can and does allow a plug to loosen, I've had it happen my own self.

I've referenced this post before, I think its appropriate most any time Modular Motor plugs are discussed https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ead-heads.html IMHO there's a ton of great if anecdotal info there about this very issue.

Like Tom I'd suggest at least loosening the existing plugs and using a torque wrench this time. Its too bad you don't have a dial type torque wrench to see how tight they are now. Anti-seize, well I leave that to you........
 
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