So on a three hour drive to the beach the 428FE in my F100 decided to start spraying some coolant into the oil. A gasket down below also thought it was time to start dripping...heavily. Made for a nervous ride home.

At this point I'm debating my options. I'm an OK mechanic, but a full rebuild is over my head. So, after I pull the motor I can:
1. Send engine off to engine builders for a complete rebuild (est. $2500)
2. Replace seals and offending gaskets myself, and send stock FE heads off for work (valve job, whatever else needs to be rebuilt, est. ~$200-1000?)
3. Replace seals and offending gaskets myself, and go in for new aftermarket heads? (est. Edelbrock heads $1600 ~ Survival heads $2000)

I spoke to a reputable engine builder shop in Durham, NC, and they said for a street driven 428FE going much over 425hp would not be advisable. I was surprised by that and thought that 500hp was a reasonable build. Also, what kind of performance difference is expected between worked over stock iron heads and new Edelbrock heads? Again, the builders said they wouldn't comparable, the new heads would be so much better.

Thoughts on these ideas? Opinions on the cylinder head route and any suggestions for engine builders would be helpful. I live in Chapel Hill NC, so any NC builder could work.

Thanks- Mike

 

Option #1 - Good price on a rebuild but that sounds like it's a stock deal which it sounds like you don't want.
Option #2 - Would fix your problem. But that's all.
Option #3 - Would fix your problem as well as giving you more hp. But if you go with new heads you would want a cam to support them and now you've started down the "as long as I'm doing this, I may as well do that" road.
The last paragraph about how much hp, I agree with the guy that said 425 is plenty. You start going over that and you start spending bigger bucks, and that translates all the way down the driveline.
I can tell you from experience 400 hp makes one hell of a nice truck.

 

Time to learn how to build an engine. Have the machine shop do all the machine work and assemble it yourself. Have the machine shop provide properly sized bearings, rings, pistons, etc. Get a good torque wrench, a shop manual and go to town.

A lot of shops are in the $800.00 to $1500.00 assembly fee for short or long blocks. You'll at least save that.

 

That may well happen. I plan to do a compression test and leakdown test to see if a rebuild is really necessary. I need to check with my shade tree mechanic- if he will have time this coming month to show me the ropes of assembling an engine, then I'd tackle it with some guidance. I still have a poor understanding of what is required in a rebuild. I know the cylinders need to be honed and then oversized pistons are fitted, but are the rods and crank replaced as well? Then there is the issue of rebuilding the heads. I figure I'd need a good torque wrench and a few different micrometers, right?

If not, and a full rebuild is not in order, I will replace the seals and gaskets, and have the heads looked over. If the work they require is minimal, I'll have them rebuilt. If it is going to be >$800, then new Edelbrock heads seem called for.

 

The thing that will undermine an engine rebuild more than anything is lack of time or impatience especially if there is a learning curve involved .. One thing you have working in your favor there is a bunch of info on the Ford FE motor .. You need to decide what this truck is going to be used for? whether burning 87 octane fuel is important ? and whether the Truck itself is in a condition that is worth throwing this kind of money at it ?

Is the Truck your daily driver ? and how soon do you need it back on the road ? you might be better served getting a 390 or other FE motor that has some life left in it and really take your time rebuilding the 428 as your budget and time will allow .. Buying yourself the kind of time it takes to learn what kind of motor you really want to build .. There is a substantial learning curve involved here but this can be overcome if you give yourself plenty of time and are motivated to do what it takes .. It can be really a lot more fun if you don't put yourself up against any clock ..

The first steps to a good build are going to be having the heads and the block tanked and magnifluxed and then measured to see where you are really at .. Then have the crank inspected and measured .. For example do you even know if the motor was ever rebuilt before ?

 

This looks like the kind of heads I would be looking for .. Cast Iron takes longer to overheat and doesn't warp as easily ..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Heads-390-428-GT-6-B-14-6-B15-C6AE-6090-R-/191185342000?hash=item2c8388ce30&item=191185342000&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr